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Staple up W/ plates Question
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Interesting, very interesting. Thanks Troy, that's good info right there.
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Comments
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With a staple up...
and extruded plates can expanding foam insulation be sprayed on the tubing to fill the joist bay? 30x20 space over unheated garage with 70' exposed, LOTS of windows and hardwood floor. I've not run the numbers yet...But would like to know how much insulation will have to be sprayed for system to work.0 -
foam over plates
It's a great idea as long as you cover the tube and plates first. Don't foam directly or you take the risk of foam getting above and around the tube and plates. We have done this with foil/bubble/foil up between the joists and then foam under that. Anything that keeps the foam from encapsulating the heat.0 -
Batts
I'd recommend using 6" fiberglass batts with an air space between the batt and the plates...1-2" is fine. Spray foam is too messy and expensive. R19 or R21 will give adequate R values, but the application has its limits, depending on the numbers. Do the math!!
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Has this happened to someone? I've never heard of that happening with a direct spray. If your plates are firmly affixed as they should be, shouldn't be much risk of this, I would think?0 -
I'm just a home owner, but I thought there were reasons for having that 1-2 " separation between the insulation and the plates. Like encapsulating the heat and transferring it in a more even manner over the whole space.
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what i
What I did, I sprayed sticking stuff on fiberglass insulations and put shiny side up foil on it and put it place inside joints leaving 3 inches of air gap.... Reflected the heat up...0 -
How much insulation.....
depends on the flooring above. whatever the R value is of the above floor, install 5 times that R value below the tubing. Remember, heat always goes to cold so make it go where you want it to. As far as using spray insulation, when using plates you are heating mass so the heat will transfer to the mass above regardless of the insulation making contact with the tube. Only real downside that I can see is accessability in the future (hopefully you'll never need it!) This may be the only GOOD application for "bubble wrap"! there really is minimal R value to that stuff but it may help in the future to remove bubble wrap and the spray insulation if ever needed. install bubble wrap an inch below the tubing and then spray foam. Good Luck with your project!0 -
But...
as soon as the foil gets dusty, it no longer reflects the radiant wave...and all joist bays generate dust from the construction and walking on the floors. Mark Eatherton has done testing for the various staple-up approaches and insulation barriers, and posted on this site.
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actually
Paul, FYI, I just completed a refresher course and in the case of radiant with plates they recommend the insulation be shoved against the tubing. If your going with just tubing/no plates then they recommend a 3"gap. This was the class put on by Uponor/Wirsbo...I would contact them with any question's, they are very informative and would love to help someone get the most from radiant heat..
http://www.uponor-usa.com/0 -
seasonal lows?
whats are the seasonal lows where you are at? R19 might not even be close for an unheat garage in a cold climate.0 -
NRT
I witnessed this on a job that needed a repair. That foam gets in every little crevice. Not to mention all tube that is out of the plates {bends} will be completly encapsulated in foam.0
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