Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Burnham RSA and aquabooster ( Ron Jr. )

ScottMP
ScottMP Member Posts: 5,882
YOu know I'm your biggest fan, and should know I am only teasing you.

I guess I am so used to seeing perfection in every photo you post, this one caught me by suprise. Normally I can't find any thing to suggest.

NO Insult intended Pal, just a good natured ribbing.

Whether the tank is upside down or not, you still have the wieght right ? I just don't like the idea of it balancing on a 1/2" nipple.

I know you Always do your best Ron, sorry to tease you.

Scott

<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=237&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>

Comments

  • Nice job to work on for a Friday

    Split level home , 5 wide steps down into the baement , and the boiler is in the unfinished part . This one was me , Kenny and Sal . The old Blueray gave up the fight . That's Kenny ripping apart the wiring .
  • Burnham RSA and Bradford White aquabooster

    We left plenty of room between the 2 for chimney access . We also kept the aquabooster pipes as far out of the way as possible to get to the boiler and chimney .

    Anyone have a trick-of-the-trade to level a boiler that has a completely flat bottom ? Shim all 4 corners with 1900 plates and the boiler will spin on a dime if you tighten or loosen anything . Anyone know of a shim that has a rough surface on both sides ?
  • DanHolohan
    DanHolohan Member, Moderator, Administrator Posts: 16,634
    Circulators

    on the return, Ron?
    Retired and loving it.
  • Ahh , you caught us

    No choice for these homes in Jericho . The 1 1/4 inch supply pipe goes out to another part of the basement and splits off with flow valves . Most of the time the flow valves are boxed in and not accesible .
  • Al Corelli
    Al Corelli Member Posts: 454
    We have a way to level boilers like that.

    But if I told you, I'd have to kill you.

    Al Corelli
    914-804-2234
  • Scott04
    Scott04 Member Posts: 68
    Leveling RSA boiler

    Ron,
    What I found works great for leveling this boiler is setting it on two 4" block. Put your shims between the blocks and the floor, then push some morter into any gaps. I used to make a box out of four blocks, but found that in very damp basments, the moisture was held under the boiler and would, over time, rot out the bottom of the boiler. The four blocks made a real nice looking job, but just using two allows for better airflow under the boiler.

    Scott
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,882
    Ron, Ron

    Dark days are surely upon us.....

    Why the ball valves for service so high up in the cieling ?
    No individual drains for the zones ? No tempering valve for the domestic ? I have never been a fan of the upside down expansion tank, It just don't seem natural, And NOT PUMPING AWAY ???

    AHH I get it, this is a Halloween prank, its not your work right,,

    The big guys must be riding you again ?

    Scott

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,911


  • The ball valves for the domestic

    that " might " be turned every decade or so are within easy reach of Sal's hands at 5 foot 6 . I put them up high so you can turn them off , cut the pipes , and install a new boiler or aquabooster without shutting and draining the system down . How many times have you seen a valve 2 inches away from the cold-in or hot-out of a booster or indirect ? Who does that help when the tank needs to be replaced - and it's a different brand tank ?

    We don't install individual drains on simple 2 or 3 zone baseboard homes . Purging the whole system took us all of 5 minutes . And again , something that " might " be used every decade or so .

    The coil is not connected directly to the hot pipes of the home . The aquabooster was set to give 130 degree water to the sinks . But I agree a mixing valve is a good idea for every hot water source .

    I've taken out hundreds of expansion tanks . Piped hanging down , hanging up , sideways . Our service department has taken out thousands - hanging up , down , sideways . I know the manufacturer wants the orientation facing down , but real world experience shows us they last just as long facing up ( sideways is another matter ) . Scott , you ever spin out a tank hanging down , full of water ? Had a helper do it and almost lose a few fingers . Yeah we'll take the chance by hanging it un-naturally .

    Pumping away , like I'm sure you read in my reply to Dan , is not an option unless we rip apart finished ceilings . We could possibly throw a circ on the supply and zone valve the returns . Or insist we have access to the flow valves and remove them . Well , the people that live in this area are very , very saavy . And they would want a real good reason for us to add a significant cost ( and to cut open walls and ceilings ) to every boiler replacement for a potential piping problem that simply does not exist in these homes . My service department would insist we repipe these homes if we were sending a tech there all the time to bleed zones , don't you think ?

    Halloween prank ? Dude , I appreciate the constructive criticism , I actually changed alot of my working habits from the critique we get from The Wall's collective knowlege . And you bring up valid points . But that comment is damn insulting and unwarranted . You've seen my work on here for years , and you know it'll never be up to the standards that Chris sets for your customers .

    Kenny , Sal and myself did as fine a job as we possibly can . Bottom line is the customer will enjoy the reduced fuel bill while having a much safer heating system in the home .
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,911
    Interaction between cement block and metal boiler bottom?

    HO here. Is there some material that could be put between boiler and blocks to prevent corrosive interaction between the two? Seems like four strong adjustable built-in boiler legs--that can be raised 2-3" inches to prevent flood damage-- (instead of all these blocks) might be better to prevent humidity buildup etc.

    David
  • Corrosive interaction

    I think there's a bigger pontential of heat from the chamber deteriorating the floor . But most homes we work in that were built with a set spot for the boiler have a thicker concrete pad poured in that area . Old boilers like the one we took out had the brick cahmber sitting directly on the floor - no steel bottom . The floor looked great after 50 years or so .

    The problem with a flat boiler bottom is if there's even a slight bump up in the concrete you need to shim all 4 corners to get it level .

    Good idea about adjustable boiler legs . They work excellent with the Burnham MPO .
  • Damn , that's a good idea

    Should have thought of using 4 inch blocks before . Rough surface on both sides make it ideal . Are the blocks long enough for an RSA 125 ? Do you need to make a squar pad with 4 of them ?

    I always tell myself to keep a few blocks on the truck , but of course it slips my mind . I have 2 inch solids under my own boiler , 2 of those shouldn't take up much room in the van .

    Thanks alot Scott .
  • Haha

    Ok , your secret will be safe with me ......... till I post a pic using your trick-o-the-trade . I can always edit out the lower part of the pic :)

    I'll give you a call later , thanks alot Al .
  • Leo
    Leo Member Posts: 772
    Why the RSA

    Ron, Why not the usual V8? Is this a low budget job?

    Leo
  • We give them

    the good (RSA) , better (V8) , best (MPO) choices , and let them decide what will fit their budget .

    Longevity issues aside , you think a V8 would save them an aprreciable amount of oil compared to the RSA ? That's something to look into . We have alot of homes in this area with a V8 or an RSA .
  • lchmb
    lchmb Member Posts: 2,997
    Every boiler

    Ron I actually set every boiler I install on 4-4" block's. It make's it a little easier to service and when you have a bottom drain easier to get to. I also add my plates under the block's if needed and have flattened copper in some case's to make a wedge. As to the piping arrangement, I have done that a number of time's myself and have never seen an issue. I can only imagion (and that scares me) how many of these system's you have installed. Have a good weekend...
  • Patchogue Phil_29
    Patchogue Phil_29 Member Posts: 120
    What's on the ceiling?

    Hi Ron

    What is on the ceiling above the boiler? Is that some kind of foil-faced foam board?

    Phil
  • Al Corelli
    Al Corelli Member Posts: 454
    Boiler setting.

    The oil company who we do the most installs for, requires 4" solid blocks under ANYTHING installed. Most times, if there is room, we install on two or three tiers of blocks to make servicing easier (or to match water lines).

    The actual levelling is done with...

    Ain't gonna say.
  • Scott04
    Scott04 Member Posts: 68
    Blocks

    Ron,

    The blocks are long enough to set up to a RSA 135 boiler on. I don't know about the bigger ones.

    We used to set up a box with four blocks. It looked great, worked well, etc... We had to replace two RS boilers this year due to the base being rusted. As soon as we moved the boiler, the bottom fell out. Now I just use two blocks to allow for air circulation. Doesn't look as good, but should make the boiler last better!

    Scott
  • Al Gregory
    Al Gregory Member Posts: 259


    We use a bag of dry cement mix. Spread it out on the floor and you basically can just spin the boiler back and forth a cpl times and its level. This works under cement blocks too, even on some really rough floors. The cement will draw moisture out of the floor and harden up.
  • jp_2
    jp_2 Member Posts: 1,935
    rubber gloves?

    whats with the rubber gloves? you guys just trying to be neat?

    I'd use a bit of thinset in each corner for leveling.
  • Must be an

    optical illusion . It's plain ol' 5/8 sheetrock . It does look shiny , don't it ?
  • Lchmb

    We changed out alot of these in this town . Almost all of them are piped the same . One of the first things we look over are the service tags . We want to know of recurring problems with the old system and try to fix them on the spot . Now , unless the servicemen as a group don't mark on the cards that they had to bleed the systems , it really is a non-issue because we never see it on the cards .

    Thanks alot for the advice Lchmb .
  • Another good idea

    Thanks Al . A bag of cement is on the list to keep on the truck , along with 2 blocks .
  • Yeah , neatness counts

    Most of the guys wear the rubber gloves . I do not , unless I got an infected cut or burn .
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,227
    Excellent as always

    Top notch as always ron ,great looking job i know what you mean about valves to close for servicing or changing a boiler with out draining having the valves up high is very forward thinking at least to me .As allways great to see your work some may want to nit pick but the clam says let them try to match the shear volume of jobs you and you crew blow out and with the same quality and they would be in bed for a week after 1 week of working with you guys.You guy rock and roll'em in top notch as always peace and good luck my friend clammy

    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating

  • David Sutton_6
    David Sutton_6 Member Posts: 1,079
    Nice job Ron

    Ok here's a free trick for ya...

    You know those besky steel couplings that come on the 2" pipe.. Save them when you have a flat bottom steel boiler put on in each cornor as legs...

    me so smart huh....


    Good job buddy...David
  • David Sutton_6
    David Sutton_6 Member Posts: 1,079
    Ron

    Buy a 5 gal bucket of hydro cement and keep it in the truck it stacks easy and fits the bill for all types of work. filling in around flue pipe ...nice and smooth...leveling boilers sets up real fast.. sealing around fill and vents for oil tanks... and all this for one low price..


    David
  • Funny thing Friday night

    Was at my local bar and 2 fire marshals walk in . Working together it took them over an hour to find some violations . But violations they did find . Nothing major . I wouldn't consider them even minor . A " Fire Exit " sign over the entrance ? If you need to see that sign before you figure the entrance you walked in is a good idea to exit out of in a fire , you need lotsa help .

    Point is , if you look long and hard enough , you'll always see things that could've been done better . Whether they have a true impact on the overall job is always a debatable issue . And it is much easier and safer to remove a full expansion tank balanced on an ell than hanging down .

    Scott , I always welcome criticism . No joke , it made me a better installer by far . Maybe it's just me , but I've always found good things to say about jobs posted on here before I bring up what I might do different . It's pretty tough to think you were just teasing when your whole post comes across as negative .

    The issues I have with my co-workers , I'll air them out as I see fit . Being an owner of a company I know you'd want issues best handled in private kept that way . Remember , many people who work with you and with me come to The Wall regularly .

    No apology necessary Scott . I should apologize . I should have known you didn't mean any harm . Sorry about that .

  • Me and Kenny

    replaced a leaky Slant Fin Malibu that was sitting on 4 - 2" by close nips . Matter of fact it was very sturdy . The coupling would be even more so .

    You smart cookie , thanks alot David .
  • Ahh Clammy

    you always make my day when you post about our work . A real shot in the arm . I really believe all the points brought up are valid . Circs on the return would be the main concern . But c'mon , the people that bring it up know me , and know I would never install something that didn't have a chance in working . There must be a few thousand homes in this area . Same pipe configuration . If we had to send a serviceman back on a regular basis to burp air from zones we'd be in the poor house .

    Clammy , thanks so much for you upbeat post . You put the spring back in my step .
  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    Hear Hear!

    Rather belatedly, allow me to add my support to your install as well. Let's start with the "before". Here you have a sorry boiler with a air scoop that looks so plugged that it probably didn't work anymore anyway.

    Soot marks around the burner blast tube, etc. indicate a fair amount of "blow-by" whenever the burner was running. Plus, the piping as installed prevented anyone from opening the unit from above... the only access to the burner chamber was via the blast-tube flange and the smoke pipe. Rather sub-optimal.

    Going further down the nit-picking list, I see gate valves controlling flow, a coil for DHW, and other non-plumb horrors. Yet this system seems to have worked fine for many, many years.

    The "after" picture looks a lot better IMHO than the "before". The coil DHW system has been replaced with a aquabooster that will have a much lower standby loss than the previous boiler.

    Even better, there are plenty of drain valves on the system, along with ball valves for flow control. The top of the boiler is not obstructed. Everything on it can be taken off for service without having to cut and resolder piping. Speaking of which, the piping is straight and plumb as usual. The soldered joints are free of snot and look beautiful.

    Would pumping away and webstone flanges for the circs be an even better option? Perhaps, but I trust Rons judgement that pumping on the return works fine in this type of home and that budgets sometimes get in the way of installing the best system an installer would like to install. So, for what it's worth, my hat off to you Ron, as usual.
  • Leo
    Leo Member Posts: 772
    Hey Ron

    It don't matter if you pump away or not, often you as an employee have to go with what you are told or given. Then you do the best you can. I once worked for a company as a Rookie and did installs. I was flat out told NO WAY could I do it pumping away because what did I know I was the new guy. So I reluctantly did what I was told and did the best I could with what I had to work with.

    Keep Up the good work, I could never install on a regular basis like you do.

    Leo
  • Scott04
    Scott04 Member Posts: 68
    Downspouts

    Ron,

    What is the requirement where you are, for how far the downspouts have to go down?

    Here in the "wild wild west" where lawlesness reigns, code says 6" from floor. I always figured that the codes around here, now that we have some to follow, were the least demanding of any. Could be your code is different. Nice job, and for the record, I prefer the RSA series over the V-8 series. The jury is still out on the MPO! I've installed one chimney vent, and have a dirrect vent just waiting for the power to be turned on to the house so we can commission it! The one we have up and running is very quiet, and was nice to install! Had problem with aquastat, but that had nothing to do with the boiler!

    Scott
  • Scott04
    Scott04 Member Posts: 68


  • Scott04
    Scott04 Member Posts: 68


    Something I just noticed in the pic. I see you do the same as I do in ending the manifold with a tee! Makes it a hell of a lot easier later on if they decide to add a zone! Drain the pressure off, pull a plug, add another tee, BINGO! You're tied into the system! In my book, nothing worse than ending an iron manifold with an elbow (at least when I'm the one adding another zone!).

    As far as the issue of pumping away, Does it solve some problems? No doubt! If a system has no air problems, and pumping away would be a major PITA, or large expence, is it worth it? NO! If there are no problems how could you justify a large expence for "fixing" the system? On this topic, I think, people are falling into the old adage of "that's the way it's supposed to be." Hard sell when the "wrong" way has always worked (in some cases) and there is no benefit in changing it!

    Scott
This discussion has been closed.