Perry's new installation - Vitoden 200, 6-24 & DHW

Perry's new installation - Vitoden 200, 6-24 & DHW

OK, I know you all want to see how it turned out.

I built the wall (with the boards) at this time just for this project - and used 2x6's where the Vitoden would go.

The grey box on the right side of the boiler is a Brickwall industrial surge protector (good for up to 20 amps - and capable of absorbing thousands of surges without degrading as the cheaper surge protectors do - this is close to a $300 surge protector).

I will wire in the LWCO when I get it to this box (could not get the Vitodens LWCO fitting for the top of the boiler in time). Note that there is no requirment for me to use a LWCO; but I will install one when I get the right adapter.

The surge protector only powers the boiler recepticle under the power supply.

Items that may be of interest - or debate:

Yes, those are secondary loop supply and return thermometers (in thermowells).

The TACO 007 Circulator is on the return side of the Low Loss Header (the silver thing in connecting the boiler and the secondary loop - you are really looking at the insulation kit). Please no discussion on pump location - I understand the theory and debate. The installation contractor believes this is the best method - and I never had any air problems with the old boiler with the pump on the return side. Given the low head of a TACO 007 I don't see a problem.

The circulator is installed with the motor against the wall. The contractor feels that it is best to change the entire pump for a few dollars more than to just replace the cartridge.

There is a system isolation valve after the air scoop (not easily seen in the pictures). I don't want to have to drain the entire system if I have to work on it. The Circulator has isolation valves as part of the flanges.

There are low point drains and a vent valve for the DHW supply line high point. I believe in making maintenance easy...

There are female copper fittings threaded on the low loss header. The installation contractor is aware that there is debate on that - but has never had a female copper threaded on black iron joint leak in over 20 years of installing them - and views installation of a coupling as adding another joint that could leak.

Not easily seen - but there is a switch to turn off power to the boiler recepticle (right next to the recepticle). Oh, I tend to wire with BX cable. I may be crazy... but it is a better kind of crazyness than things other people do.


Anyway, I hope you like the pictures. I plan on shortning up the cord to the power supply some day.

I should also make mention of the good work from the following:

LeClaire Brothers Heating, Two Rivers, WI

Gary Jansen (Mfr Rep). Fluid Handling, Milwaukee, WI

The system is up and running well now that the miswire cable plug was found and corrected (another thread has that discussion. It took the rep 6 hours to diagnose it - but we sure learned how to take apart and test all kinds of things in the boiler in the process).

How much will this all cost.... Don't know yet. The job was based on T&M format as the contractor had no experience with this type of boiler and vent system. Those extra 6 hours that LeClaire had their crew here for diagnostics by the rep (OT) are my responsibility. We've been talking about those hours... We'll see.

Have a great day.

Perry

PONPC for general discussion

When we install a Vito with a LLH I put a tee in the bottom tapping of the LLH and run a line to where ever we hang the XP tank. This makes the LLH the common PONPC of the whole system whereby all circs are pumping away from it including the boielr circ. We just fired one up Thursday (6-24) driving 320 sq ft of Climate panel, 9 panel rads and 2 towel warmers. Done this with the last few installs and have been very happy with the results. I haven't incorporated any air elimination device into the last few other than the vent on top of the Vito. We just purge the blazes out of the system and let er rip. No air problems at all. Period.

If you look at Viessmann's installation drawings, that's not the location they recommend. Anyone see a long term problem with my method?

Just curious

How often do you empty the drain under the sink

What do you have for heat emmiters in the house ? I notice no purge station ? Interesting to put the feed near the expansion tank and not pump away ? Why go half way ?

Scott

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Emmiters and purge..

I have cast iron baseboard on a Monoflo T system.

There are two purge locations built into the boiler by Viessmann.

A top of the boiler purge connection, a bottom of the boiler purge connection. Viessmann supplies a plastic hose that can be connected to the boiler purge locations.

Hope that helps.

Perry

supply

One reason I always pump away is that you dont know who will be there next. Owner sells the house or puts in an addition. The next guy adds a circ where the existing one is. Then the breeze way gets enclosed and they want heat in there. That guy connects to the return as well. On and On it goes, then you see stuff like this:



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Suggestions

The airscoop fitting requires 16" min length on the inlet side from the last fitting to allow laminar flow. Shorter distances mean less effective air removal. I'd be using a Spirovent, which doesn't have min inlet requirements. The expansion tank is supposed to be located on the boiler supply, before the LLH. We also use circ isolator flanges and ball valve on the return with a purge, to help isolate all components and make it easy to service... Same with the DHW tank...we isolate all ports and provide ball valves. And as Connie said, insulate the piping.

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Constantin

May I ask what type generator set you installed, NG, LP,Gasoline, or diesel and what kind of output? This is mine but is in WIP stage. Hope to have it finished in about 2week if Asco Technologies can send me a correctly manufactured Transfer Switch. I am frustrated but patient, things happen.

Radiator vents and system purges

Yes, each radiator has a vent.

I am not sure what you are looking for as a system purge; but both the boiler supply and return piping have low point drain valves.

Another item not shown is that their are 3/4" valved connections that branch off the new copper to allow for future additional basement heating - if it needs any. Since I beadboarded the basement I had only turned on the old heater once. There is about 100 ft of 1.25 inch pipe, plus a lot of smaller feeder pipe that makes a good emmiter for heating the basement.

Perry

Thanks for the suggestions.

Please keep them coming.

I know that this is not a perfect install. Those of you who have followed my journey know the difficutlty I had in finding a vendor to do the install. Some things were changed from what the vendor would have done. But, I have learned to pick my battles - and not try to fight them all.

I had already thought of insulating the hot water heater circuit pipe (at least back a ways). I use the radiation from the basement pipe as my basement heating system - so I won't be insulating the other pipe. I do note that there are provisional 3/4" valved off stubs on the supply and return should someone want to add more basement heat in the future (although I think the beadboarding of the basement has done wonders).

If there are future maintenance invovling the pipes I will see what I can do to adopt changes at the time. Otherwise, as long as it works - and I don't have air problems - I'll leave it be for now. It will be a while to pay this off.

Now I need to get it tuned to my house.

Have a great weekend. I'm on 12 hour days for most of the next month or so.

Perry