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steam boiler replacement

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dwk
dwk Member Posts: 17
in THE MAIN WALL
I'm going to be replacing my existing american standard model # 156 arcoliner with a 3-section smith (SIZED BY MY HEATING DISTRIBUTER). My Question is how critical is the 28 inch dim. between main & ctr. of glass. All my returns are dry and up on basement ceiling,so there is no danger of turning a dry return into a wet one. I'm also going to be using a droppedheader. Anything else I should be aware of??? (This is my first steam job.)The a dim. will be alot more than 28. I,m not referring to the 24"dim.
Thanks,dj

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    If you have more than 28 inches

    Don't sweat it . Through trial and alot of error I've found the most critical aspect of a steam boiler replacement is the boiler main and equalizer . Whatever the boiler specs calls for we knock the boiler main up another size , and of course pipe it at least 24 inches higher than the water line . We also drop the equalizer down in the same size as the main . Combining that with a drop header and our callbacks on steamers have dropped dramatically .

    Take some pics and post them here if you can . Haven't seen a steamer showcased in a while .
  • David Sutton_6
    David Sutton_6 Member Posts: 1,079
    Wow how soon we forget :-)

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Christian Egli_2
    Christian Egli_2 Member Posts: 812
    Follow directions A B

    When a steam system is in operation there appears a certain amount of pressure inside the boiler. This pressure, just like the artificial head in a water system, pushes the steam around in the pipes while the pressure drops regularly. (Usually this pressure drop was designed to be 1/2 PSI in one pipe system; in two pipes it's just shy of whatever your boiler is set at; A; B).

    This pressure drops all along the ride until there is none left at the exit of the return. The slide down from the return into the boiler is a straight chute, no anti-pressure-back-up device can work here, and so you have to plan for the boiler water to back up into this chute, stacking up to the pressure differential. (about 1/2 PSI in one pipes and possibly much more in two)

    That's why a vaporstat that drives the boiler to the very edge of the chute is the best way to go. Pressure stats often fall off the cliff. Keep pressure low.

    The other dimensions off the boiler exits towards the main are important for dealing with entrained droplets of water and returning them to the boiler via the equalizer line. Be sure to follow instructions, to install slope in the header parts and to not allow for puddles to form in the recess of a concentric reduction, for instance.

    Also, the swing links, the horizontal pipes where the steam does the upside down U turn after leaving the boiler need to be generous in length. Tight fitting nipples make for tight movements. When the boiler sections need to expand apart from each other like an accordion, the header has to allow for all these squeaky motions; look at it like a big hinge. Boilers crack and loose their seals to these failures. Copper headers make this failure a guaranteed certainty.

    Talk to the owner about the system traps or vents. They need easy maintenance that pays big rewards. Same with insulating the pipes.

    Don't forget adding good blow down and skimming taps, and performing a good system clean up after your install.

    Another boiler to love. Ron is right we haven't seen such good pictures in a while.
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