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hr Member Posts: 6,106
in THE MAIN WALL
Tile Council of America suggest 1-1/4" of subfloor under a tile application to prevent flexing. With a true 1" subfloor I'd guess 1/4" backer board would do the trick. Make sure the screws don't get into the tube and plates below :)

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  • Ed Lentz_2
    Ed Lentz_2 Member Posts: 158
    Laying new tile

    Currently I have a hodgepodge for a floor in a small bathroom. From the floor joists, we have 1" of subfloor (old house) and then 1" hardwood, then 1/8 backer board, then vinyl sheet. We have under the subfloor 1/2 " pex with plates. So far the floor has been just fine as far as heat goes. But, now we are considering putting down tile. I would be taking the floor down to the subfloor, and then building up the tile to match the floor outside the door. The question is: Willl this affect my heat transfer? I am thinking that it might make the room warmer, or at least appear warmer. Thoughts?

    Thanks
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,310
    You wrote...

    "So far the floor has been just fine as far as heat goes."

    Adding ceramics to the existing floor would be a negligible output result. By removing the existing layers, you would remove far less conductive elements, thereby raising the output substantially, as well as lowr the rigidity of the tile "base."

    As long as you feel the removal of some of the elements of the older flooring would not impose flexing where none existed before (and the ensuing grout and tile cracking potential associated thereto), and, as long as it is easy to lower water temps since the layers below the plates will be reduced (thereby increasing surface temps), I'd go for it.
  • Brad White_119
    Brad White_119 Member Posts: 11
    I agree with Ken

    Tile is negligible compared to all of that wood.

    In my old house (1873) I took it down to the joists, sistered in some more, then 3/4" T&G plywood subfloor on construction adhesive. Climate panel screwed down, 1/4" cement board in thinset then tile in thinset. Works great. But as Ken suggested, work out the potential flexion first or go with a resiliant (silicone grout) tile system.

    And in your case, insulate the living crap out of the void space below the tubing of course.
  • Ed Lentz_2
    Ed Lentz_2 Member Posts: 158


    Thanks guys, you have confirmed what I thought I was thinking! Maybe I can get the wife's toes warmer this winter!
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