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Furnace issue
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STEVE_138
Member Posts: 1
MY FURNACE KEEPS LOSING PRIME , I OPEN PETCOCK ,LOTS OF AIR. IT RUNS A FULL CYCLE BEFORE IT TRYIES TO IGNIGHT
0
Comments
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Furnace problem
I have a natural gas forced air furnace
the igniter lights the pilot light
after a few seconds the igniter lights
the pilot light again(the pilot light is already lit)
after a few seconds the furnace shuts off the pilot light
if I wait a minute or two and try the system again...
the igniter lights the pilot light
seconds later the main burner comes on
after seconds the main burner and pilot light shut off
it is a 50/50 scenerio between each of the above situations
the exhaust fan stays running the whole time
I tested the pressure sensor...it works
I tested the limit switches...they work
I cleaned the flame sensor...Is there a test to check the flame sensor without replacing it unneccessarily
circulation fan does work..I tested each speed
this is an International Comfort Products furnace
any info would be greatly appreciated
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Furnace
Give me a model no. and serial no. and I can tell you exactly what the problem is. Also, let me know what the "smart" valve looks like--slide switch or rotary switch on top. Location?0 -
Model# NTC6075FBA2
The unit is 5.5 years old
Thankyou for any solutions you may have.
CJ0 -
the "smart valve" has a slide switch on top
part#s on smart valve are HQ1011421HW / SV9501M2056
both #'s were found on the valve ****'y
furnace has an igniter(2wire)(filament)
and flame sensor(single wire)
sorry for the incomplete info on last thread
CJ
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that valve
is anything but smart. Notorious problem with the board having poor connections to that pin.
simple test: during trial for ignition, push the plug towards to outside of the valve. If it lights then wiggle it. it will likely drop out. conclusion: broken solder joints / wafer board. replace valve I believe te replacement is the SV9520M.
mitch0 -
Furnace
Well, that's not what I wanted to hear. The older gas valve w/rotary knob was notorious for this. Wiggle the flat molex plug and it would perform EXACTLY as you describe. Could be in the valve. New p/n 1170429.
Ignitor p/n is 1009524. Cheap approach is ignitor first, then gas valve. If the ignitor is still good, you'll have a spare, just in case.
FYI--ICP warranty is six (6) years on parts. Get me s/n and maybe...0 -
Serial# L010864670
Sorry. I think I sent my last reply directly to
an e-mail address.
I received an e-mail from ICP
They informed me the warranty was only (5) years on parts
Should I verify this?
Thanks, CJ0 -
> Serial# L010864670
>
> Sorry. I think I sent my
> last reply directly to an e-mail address.
>
> I
> received an e-mail from ICP They informed me the
> warranty was only (5) years on parts Should I
> verify this?
>
> Thanks, CJ
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Furnace
My mistake. Five years is correct. Let me verify s/n.0 -
CG is onto something...
The old Smart valves, which were very stupid,...:-) had a connection problem with the molex plug assembly. First the pilot orifice must be cleaned so that there is no problem with how well the pilot is lit. This furnace MUST BE GROUNDED. It does sound like the GV though.
Mike T.0 -
not smart vavle
I call them DUMB VAVLES!
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problem solved
You guys were right...
I replaced the gas valve ****'y
PROBLEM SOLVED!
Thanks for everything guys.
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:-)
We try to help where ever possible:-)
Mike T.0 -
Good!
Buy a brick for the Wall. Or two....
http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/product.cfm?category=13-1120 -
Steve
Try posting this as it's own topic rather than tagging it on an unrelated thread.
Off the cuff, I'd say any one of us here is going to need more info than what you have provided regarding your problem. Make and model of furnace and burner, single fuel line or dual, age, date of last professional tune up, above ground or underground tank, gravity fed pump or suction, etc etc. would all be helpful.0
This discussion has been closed.
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