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Insulation on return lines?

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ttekushan_3
ttekushan_3 Member Posts: 964
in THE MAIN WALL
Hmmm. Do any of the return lines head under the floor anywhere or otherwise inaccessable? The water's going somewhere not easily detected.

Terry T

steam; proportioned minitube; trapless; jet pump return; vac vent. New Yorker CGS30C

Comments

  • Ken L.
    Ken L. Member Posts: 35
    Insulation on return lines?

    As a general question:

    Will removing the fiberglass insulation from the return line help return condensed water back to the boiler? My thoughts are that the steam is not condensing back to water quickly enough.

    I have one pipe steam heat on a 90,000 BTU/HR gas fired boiler. Recently I replaced ( I mean installed the air valve when a knowledgeable tech from the gas company pointed out that he did not see an air valve. Some knucklehead had installed a plug) the air valve to notice the system works better. In general the boiler will run out of water long before the thermostat has been satisfied.

    The system does not have an automatic water fill. This may be due to the boiler running out of water. The previous owner claimed the autofill "gave them too much trouble."
    In general the water does not get very dirty or rusty and I lovingly flush it often. I have new vari-vents on all the radiators and even changed two of the supply valves (to the radiators) Note: that is not a job for the average homeowner :-(

    I have the collectors edition of Dan's books. Added 11/05
  • Tim Gardner
    Tim Gardner Member Posts: 183
    missing something

    I recommend you buy a book about steam heat in order to understand your system better. I like "The Lost Art of Steam Heating" by the guy who runs this site.

    The boiler should not "run out" of water. A properly running system should rarely need water. I used to add a little water to my old steam boiler once a month at most. I haven't needed to add any yet to my new one (1 week old).

    As far as the insulation, no, don't remove it. The steam does not come back before it is condensed. Again, a book will help you understand and is well worth the nominal investment. If nothing else, you'll be able to ask the right questions and understand the answers.
  • KEN L._2
    KEN L._2 Member Posts: 3
    boiler problems

    I have Dan's books on Steam Heat.

    The return line is not buried, however my dry return had a leak which I repaired last weekend. (Gosh how I love working with black pipe) The boiler still uses a lot of water. This is complicated by the boiler from full to empty (as defined by the low cutoff level) is about a gallon of water.

    Is a gallon of water then norm for modern steam boilers?
    the house is small with 5 radiators of various size around the main floor. One-Pipe steam heat. No knocking, banging or water hammer. Air vent valve replaced. Does not have an auto-water fill.
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Is there

    steam coming from your chimney? You could also have water leak above the water line, fill boiler to the main take off and wait to see if you get wtaer on the floor or in the chamber. Don't forget to turn off boiler for this test and drain it back down before refiring. Next check valve stems for leaks you might want to take a mirrior to see if it collects moisture on it as steam is hard to see.
  • KEN L._2
    KEN L._2 Member Posts: 3


    Bingo!

    I overfilled the boiler and -- you called it, the boiler leaks.

    Know any good heating companies?
  • Brad White_146
    Brad White_146 Member Posts: 25
    Find a Professional

    Ken- Glad you found the problem, now let's get a solution going. Have you typed your zip-code into the Find a Professional engine at the top of the masthead? Just right of the Online Store...

    Isn't Bruce cool?

    Brad
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Ken yesn I know a few but where are you located??

    and please check the Find A Professional link at the top of the page and put in your zip code
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Isn't Bruce cool?

    It just the Scotch in me Brad ;-)
  • KEN L._2
    KEN L._2 Member Posts: 3


    I am in Northern New Jersey.

    found three companies listed on HH.com within range.

    ~Ken

    who has the scotch?
  • mike jones
    mike jones Member Posts: 32
    boiler leak above water line

    our plumber wants to take the top of the boiler casing off and see if he can get to a leak above the water line on our steam boiler to get us through Dec. he says jb weld might temporarily seal it and preserve our steam pressure. does this sound safe as a temp fix?
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Mike I think its worth a try

    I hae been contemplating doing that to one myself, let me know how you make out if I get to it first I will repoert here.
  • mike jones
    mike jones Member Posts: 32
    boiler leak above water line

    i'm glad you replied. i thought of replying to your insulation queston but saw you were helped by much more knowedagle people than me. i will let you know how we do. please see a bunch of threads on boiler sodder and jb weld for leaks as we have been studying replies and posts on the site that are helpful. i was worried that you read dan's book quickly and must watch out for safety first, as i must as a HO. i haven't been able to confirm if its safe to take off the boiler cover yet. i'm hoping that someone takes interest in our thread.

    ps. i think insulation is always important, the more the better, so dont take it off unless you really have a good reason, like its but ugly and hanging over your foos ball table!

    also, they dont want you to blow down or add much water ever as it creates leaks through mineral reactions.

    good luck and keep posting!!!
  • Ken L.
    Ken L. Member Posts: 35


    > i'm glad you replied. i thought of replying to

    > your insulation queston but saw you were helped

    > by much more knowedagle people than me. i will

    > let you know how we do. please see a bunch of

    > threads on boiler sodder and jb weld for leaks as

    > we have been studying replies and posts on the

    > site that are helpful. i was worried that you

    > read dan's book quickly and must watch out for

    > safety first, as i must as a HO. i haven't been

    > able to confirm if its safe to take off the

    > boiler cover yet. i'm hoping that someone takes

    > interest in our thread.

    >

    > ps. i think

    > insulation is always important, the more the

    > better, so dont take it off unless you really

    > have a good reason, like its but ugly and hanging

    > over your foos ball table!

    >

    > also, they dont

    > want you to blow down or add much water ever as

    > it creates leaks through mineral

    > reactions.

    >

    > good luck and keep posting!!!


  • Ken L.
    Ken L. Member Posts: 35


    JB Weld would not help in my boiler. I have a Dunkirk, about 20 years old. I removed the cover to see that the leak is not accessable. I recall from metal shop that cast iron is difficult to weld. (and it leaks like a sieve when over filled in an area I cannot see).

    If you want to gamble that it fixes your leak for a season go for it. I'd tell the plumber that if it leaks within a month, that time must go towards credit to a replacment boiler.

    I'm waiting on my estimate from 3 more companies. I have already disqualified half of them as knuckleheads.
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