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Your solar voice is needed (GrandPAH)

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Alan_16
Alan_16 Member Posts: 4
I have been reading this thread with interest.
This winter I installed 2 solar thermal arrays.
1 has 60 heat pipe tubes with the dual wall tube,
and the other has 40 tubes with the full vacuum and finned heat pipe.
I am trying to characterize each type. I have some notes if anyone is interested.
Note: the dual wall types are much cheaper. This is what most suppliers sell.

The heat fluid flows through a coil in the bottom of a indirect DHW tank.
There is another coil in the top of the tank. I intended to remove heat from the top coil to insert into the radiant floor loop.
The heat transfer capability of these coils are not up to the task. I could see a 40 degree C difference between the tank and the collectors.
The upper coil does not have a hope of maintaining temperature even with one zone circulating.
I have lots of heat, the problem is heat distribution
I think that I will use both coils to heat the DHW, thereby doubling the heat transfer surface.
For the radiant heat, I could either use better heat exchanges, or combine the systems and pipe solar heated fluid directly into the radiant loops.

I should note that I did not have a roof line that would work, so I have these mounted on stands at ground level. This give me the opportunity to shut them down by covering them with tarps. I have already had to do this.

I could elaborate more if anyone is interested.

Alan

Comments

  • Move towards energy independence - help requested

    Solar Action Network Alert – Tell Congress to Make the U.S. a Solar Leader



    Background:



    The Energy Policy Act of 2005 (EPACT 2005) was signed into law by President Bush on August 8, 2005. This was the first Federal major support for solar energy in 20 years, including a 30% tax credit for installing solar energy systems that has resulted in strong growth in solar energy over the last two years. Unfortunately, the tax credits will expire in 2008, unless we are able to extend them now with your help..



    The newly introduced “Securing America’s Energy Independence Act” is bi-partisan legislation (introduced in the House as HR. 590 and the Senate as S. 590) that would make America’s energy future better by making solar energy more affordable.



    Specifically, the bill extends the 30% federal investment tax credit for another 8 years, modifies the distributed photovoltaics incentive to $1500 per half-kw of capacity, removes the $2000 residential cap and provides alternative minimum tax relief (view all the bill details at

    http://seia.org/ITC_One_Pager.pdf).



    ASES, following deliberation by its Policy Committee and Board, fully supports the extension of this tax credit for another eight years. This extension is critical to developing the solar industry and the technology that will foment a rapid and full scale transition toward an appropriate and supportable energy path.



    The current energy policy of the United States is unsustainable in either the long or short-runs. We need to turn the country around, and the Securing America’s Energy Security Act will ensure that solar energy becomes a major source of power in the years to come.



    ASES therefore recommends the following when communicating with your Senators and Representative.



    Primary themes:



    The nation needs a bold, dynamic and sustainable energy policy—a policy that supports and encourages the development and commercialization of sustainable energy sources like solar, wind, geothermal, biomass. It must also be a policy that supports reducing the demand for electricity, heating and cooling energy and liquid fuels.


    To continue policies that accelerate our nation’s transition to renewable energy by extending the 30 percent solar tax credit to 2015 by co-sponsoring legislation that accomplishes this, such as the “Securing America’s Energy Independence Act.




    Our need at this time is to encourage co-sponsors to sign onto this bill, “Securing America’s Energy Independence Act”.



    Options for your personal action:



    1. Telephone the local offices of your members of congress.



    2. Use the themes attached as a template and email or fax a letter to your Representative and Senators. You can find contact information for them at www.vote-smart.org



    Vote Solar has an easy-to-use webpage that will let you email your Senators and Congressman. Click on the attached link and fill out the form:

    http://votesolar.org/action-alerts/act-now.html



    Thank you for letting your voice be heard.


  • Mad Dog!!!!!!!!
    Mad Dog!!!!!!!! Member Posts: 157
    I am 100% behing the cause PAH................

  • Mad Dog!!!!!!!!
    Mad Dog!!!!!!!! Member Posts: 157
    I am 100% behinD the cause PAH................

    We push solar at every turn and are starting to get some results. The $64,000.oo question is whether the folks that despise this administration can be objective, take off the blinders, dump out the Kool-Aid and work toward common ground WITH US. There are people that REFUSE to accept and embrace a sound idea simply because the proponent of that idea is not of the same ideology, party, et al. I am a solar warrior....let's MARCH. Mad Dog
  • Mad Dog!!!!!!!!
    Mad Dog!!!!!!!! Member Posts: 157
    Has Bush actually done something Good?

    Wow!... what a concept....this IS THE FIRST HURDLE WE MUST OVERCOME, DAVE. Mad Dog!.....
  • Mark Hunt
    Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,908
    I would except


    I don't think that the solar industry has dome THEIR part.

    I posted here a couple days ago about the dismal energy efficiency of solar panels . (Full disclosure) I had not paid attention to what a solar HW panel could do in these parts. Regardless, I was quite disappointed.

    Dave! I would be all over this if there was actually a benefit that I could see. I just do not see ANY benefit other than having the right to say you use solar. (I am not talking about PV here. I have no data on PV)

    I was going to put solar panels on my own home until I learned what they actually produce.

    I see no pay back at all in the area that I live. Phoenix?? Have at it. Upstate NY??????? Nope.

    So maybe we should send a letter to the solar industry and tell THEM to come up with a better product? We might also add that they should not depend on "government subsidies". Design a superior product and the demand will be there.

    Perhaps I WAY over estimated the capabilities of solar. Or perhaps it was way over-sold?

    I am NOT saying that solar is a bad idea. I am saying that , IMO, the solar industry has done little to make a better mouse trap. Get off the government teet and enter the real world of competition of ideas. Subsidies only TEMPORARILY prop up a house of cards.

    Mark H

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  • Singh_3
    Singh_3 Member Posts: 58
    Mark

    you may find this chart useful.
    I'll try to do some math tomorrow and reply on your original thread.

    But if an average American house uses 20 gallons per person x 4, lets assume
    all 80 gals. of that is hot water, then a 30 tube evacuated tube collector in Albany, NY producing almost close to 40,000 btus per day, can still save 30-40% in DHW production costs. I think there is a quick payback, especially with the tax credits.
    I did not do the math yet, just looking at chart.
    And why don't you think 3/4" can move 30,000 btu's?

    BTW , if I can I'll try to see you and Darin, and all @ BUNY 4/20.

    http://www.thermotechs.com/Albany_NY.htm
  • little known

    Bush pushed his home state of Texas to be a leader in wind energy generation. The White House has both DHW and PV solar.

    If you look, there's good in almost everyone.

    My solar system was harvesting an average of 30,000 Btu's per sunny day during the worst part of the solar-year. My inlet cold water temps were averaging 45F and my indirect boiler-fed second-in-line tank is maintained at 145F. So..... my solar-fed first-in-line tank, 120-gallons, was seeing a 30F rise (120 x 8.33 = 999.6 Lbs 999.6 x 30 = 29,988 btu's). Assuming my boiler runs at 90% efficiency during a domestic call, that gets me a net Btu input of 945 Btu's per cubic foot of gas (1,050 Btu's per CF here). If I drop out my solar tank and feed the indirect 45F water, I have a delta-T of 145 - 45 = 100 & 100 x 8.33 = 833 Btu's required per gallon. If, on the other hand, I feed my indirect 75F water the DT is 70 and reaching my target temp will take 583.1 Btu's per gallon. I see a direct correlation to savings.

    With just the two of us at home, we'll see a rise-n-fall each day depending on our use of hot water. We've hit a high of 160F and a low of 80F in the solar tank without any attempts to moderate or alter our DHW usage. When Mike comes home from college, I'll see a dramatic drop as he still lingers in the shower. One thing is certain, I am much more keenly aware of the impact we have on energy usage than I ever was previously.

    Ours is a Viessmann 30-tube array with a Bradford White 120-G indirect for storage. I'm not satisfied with the HX rate and will be playing this summer(G). I think that's an area where there's lots of room for improvement, but I could be wrong.

    The issue of losing power and going to steam was handled without using PV, although PV is most definately in our near future. I'll be adding more DHW solar too and I'm working on a low-power-consumption load-shifting strategy to compensate for summer's peak harvresting capabilities. By next winter, when the sun's angle is at its worst solar-harvesting angles for our latitude, I intend to have my solar array capabilities on par with our average daily usage and include a buffer to carry us over those cloudy days.

    I'm not so much concerned about payback as I am about becomming independent of those who would like nothing better than to see us dead. The global warming issues and Hubbert's Peak can be argued until everyone is blue in the face: I'm moving myself and my family forward towards energy independence. It's a long march, but looking back, I've been on tougher marches. Lead, follow, or get out of the way!

    The solar industry does not much like government incentives. They remember all too clearly what happened the day RR, with the stroke of a pen, yanked the rug out from under their feet. Oil was dirst cheap and the White House DHW solar array was dismantled for roof repairs. The costs to reassemble the solar array far exceeded the energy harvest and it was scrapped. Solar had been thriving on the subsidies, but they were given too freely with almost no oversight and there were far too many shysters milking the system while bilking consumers. Dark days no one wants to see repeated. ASES and others are striving to establish minimum guidelines for system performance and compliance. They too are on a long march and they've been at it for decades. The government incentives they've requested we voice our opinions about are something they've approached with a great deal of care and concern.

    No need to participate unless you feel solar is the right way to approach utilization of the best source of renewable energy we've got today.

    I've got more money tied up in ten-year wheeled tons of steel sitting in my driveway than I'll ever tie up in solar that will last for some 30 years, or longer. If I add the life-cycle costs of the vehicles over the same time-frame, solar looks pretty inexpensive.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Gosh Mark, why so angry sounding :)

    "dismal energy efficiency of solar panels"

    It's just some copper tube facing the sun! Did you expect it to have a nuclear glow?

    Certainly by now you can calculate BTU capacity of a copper tube. Sounds like your "solar dude" can. Schuco runs up to 4 panels on 1/2" copper.

    Relax a bit, we are all working towards the same goal here, regardless of which way you lean :)

    Mount a SDHW system on your own shop or home and report back in 6 months or so. You'd be surprised how that small btu number adds up over the course of time. Before you know it you'll be looking for a dump zone for that excessive solar energy!

    hot rod

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  • Mark Hunt
    Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,908
    Came out wrong


    I am not angry, sorry if it came off that way.

    I guess I was just disappointed when the solar installer told me what he expected on a good day.

    I just can't believe that the panels can't be made better.

    Perhaps if there was more demand?

    Mark H

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  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Evac tubes like Yatesy

    put on his place can crank out some higher temperatures and may be better suited for your climate.

    Got roof? I'll come out and help you install a system on your place. Maybe make an event out of it.

    hot rod

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  • Mark Hunt
    Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,908
    I have


    an excellent southern exposure for the rear of my home.

    As I said, I have been considering putting up some panels.

    I will look into the evac tubes.

    I would really LOVE to see solar help reduce this country's import of foriegn fuels.

    Mark H

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  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Solar-rize the Hunt's!

    I'm cooking a deal with PHC News and HVACtv to film an actual solar install for all to see. We need a roof and a willing recipient. I'll know more on Monday.

    Tell me again where you live, maybe.....we can pull some strings, and wrenches together :)

    hot rod

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  • Singh_3
    Singh_3 Member Posts: 58
    Mark

    I'm thinking of going to Warwick, RI for a Viessman solar class.
    Want to make a trip out of it?
    I too want to put some evacuated tubes on my house, and the wife finally
    got the message after my subliminal hints to her.

    Thanks for the math Dave. I'm glad it's working well for you. For space heating I don't think the numbers are there, but for DHW , any amount of collectors is well worth the investment.
  • Singh_3
    Singh_3 Member Posts: 58


    I'll help !!!
    And will bring some brewskies!
  • excellent class at Viessmann

    and Jimmy Mac is one of the best when it comes to teaching.

    I'm sticking with evac tubes so that I can incorporate storage for my radiant heating system. I have a spot just right for parking some large tanks and that's part of my load-shifting strategy. It'll grow as the array grows and that will be the buffer's buffer(G) for DHW too.

    If I use SIPs to surround the tank farm, I don't see a need for any super-insulated tanks. It's the temperature that's limiting my choices!
  • Better Solar Collectors

    Are becomeing available as demand picks up. I was at a solar trade show in Boston last week, and one booth had evac. tubes about 6" in dia. The guy said that they produce twice the heat as the regular evac. tubes. And they cost about the same as I paid for thermomax a few years ago. I read that in England they are starting to use PVT collectors. They produce electricity and hot water. The water circulating, cools the panels making them last longer, and produce more energy. Keyspan, the gas utility here just came up with an additional $1500. incentive for solar hot water. Panels will get better but it is up to us to design our systems to collect and use as much energy as possible. What if we take that solar domestic system, and make the dump zone a bathroom floor or ceiling, and send heat to that loop every day when the solar tank peaks. Think about it, maybe around 2 o'clock or so, your solar domestic tank reaches approx. 140 degrees and shuts off. How many more but's can we harvest if we then send that heat from the collectors to the dump zone for the rest of the day, during the heating season. We can continue harvesting and using that energy down to about 80 degrees. We also have to build tighter houses and conserve a lot more. Bob Gagnon

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  • Andruid_2
    Andruid_2 Member Posts: 47
    Thermal storage

    I just heard about a project in Colorado. I don't have any specifics, but I can give you the theory and say that they've had some promising results. The idea is to store a massive amount of heat gathered in the summer, and actually have it for use in the winter. Think of a storage bank in the ground . . . say the size of a geothermal ground-source loop. If the soil type is right and the water table isn't too high, it seems a lot of btu's could be stashed for later use. The earth makes a great insulator. I don't think too much heat would get away if you dug down deep enough.
  • Singh_6
    Singh_6 Member Posts: 19
    Like this one in Canada

    http://www.dlsc.ca/index.htm
  • Cosmo_3
    Cosmo_3 Member Posts: 845


    I was waiting to hear about some updates from Dave. Nothing wrong with eliminating profit margins for the dictators and royalty in the Middle East, keep it here!!!

    I am also planning on a home installation. Unfortunately the front of the house faces south, will have to find a spot somewhere though!

    I like the idea of Hot water/PV panel in one, maybe Viessmann will do the same one day? Who knows! I would love to get into the solar business, does anyone have info on dhw kits that I can start to market?

    Dave, can we see pics of your system?

    Cosmo
  • John Ruhnke
    John Ruhnke Member Posts: 1,020
    Solar trade show.......

    Bob,

    Next time you find out about one send me an e-mail I would like to go.

    JR

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    I am the walking Deadman
    Hydronics Designer
    Hydronics is the most comfortable and energy efficient HVAC system.
  • CC.Rob_2
    CC.Rob_2 Member Posts: 46
    keyspan?

    Bob, I just surfed around the Keyspan site and couldn't find the incentive program. Got any info? An additional $1500 would put me very close to pressing "go!"

    Thanks
  • Joe Furfaro
    Joe Furfaro Member Posts: 30
    evac tubes

    Bob,
    Do you remember the name of the company that produces the 6"
    tubes?
    Thanks
    Joe
  • John R. Hall
    John R. Hall Member Posts: 2,245
    Newsworthy Dave?

    Dave:

    Is there some way I can approach the solar topic from an HVAC contractor's point of view? In other words, is there money to be made for an HVAC contractor to install and service solar and solar-related equipment?
  • if marks not up for it...

    HR,

    Need roof, I have one!!

    Also have the best beer fridge

    .....AND two spare bedrooms!!

    New HVAc this spring to include a hi velocity air system with duct coil connected to a modcon gas boiler and indirect.

    I'll probably be putting a new roof on this spring/summer.

    House faces SW.

    Would be fun to see you !!!

    wheels

  • Money? Are we supposed to be making money?!?

    Here n I thought we was woikin for the love of the woik itself(G).

    Depends John. The solar biz has some issues with how to figure overhead and establish correct rates - just like the other trades. Green energy doesn't need to be a pauper's sport and you don't have to be Daddy Warbucks to afford solar.

    There's still far too many Rube Goldbergs and too much "assembling" of components without any benchmarks for the completed assembly's system-wide performance - just like hydronics! Once again, the consumer has no real way to gauge the real-deal unless the system was tested independently. Viessmann and Schuco are two who have put together the whole package and have documented proof of system-wide performance.

    Consumers are faced with 90+ mod-cons, yet no total package performance numbers. Same with solar components if you pick up a copy of Home Power or Solar Today or check the net. Speaking of which, there's many a pirate ship afloat on the net, if ye get me drift matey.

    Consumer's don't realise, or value perhaps, the vast storehouse of knowledge we bring to the mix.

    Not to jump ship, but check out this note I got asking me for help that, I think, illustrates what I'm trying to convey:

    Dear Dave,

    Saw your column on Contractor's web site and wondered if you might be able help with advice.

    Back in December, we ordered counter tops, sink, faucet and sink baskets all from XXX here in XXX. We worked with a very nice consultant from that store (XXX), who has tried to be helpful throughout.

    We installed the counters in mid-January, and intended to install the sink at the same time, but when we opened the sink box from XXX, the sink was broken in half between the two bowls.

    XXX reordered the sink, and with prodding from us, finally got the sink three weeks later. Our carpenter/plumber (XXX), from XXX, XXX miles away, came back for the installation. Upon inspection, the sink was warped, so that if you laid it on a flat surface, one corner was about ¼” higher than the others. We proceeded anyway, what with having washed dishes for a month in the laundry room, and thinking that the sink could be pulled flush with the counter with the supplied mounting clips.

    Then, after knocking out the hole for the single-hole faucet (11:00 PM by now), they discovered that the knockout (1 ¼”) was too small in diameter to receive the faucet assembly (1 5/16”). Three or four wasted files later, they got the hole big enough. They also had to file down an edge of the faucet under-sink mounting ring & washer, to make it fit between the faucet assembly and the side of the sink bowl. In addition, they had to cut a “notch” out of the counter top to make room for the faucet under-sink mounting bracket, bringing the edge of the counter top to within about ¼” of the outer lip of the sink (see labeled photo).

    Then, when placing the sink in the counter top opening (1:00 AM), they discovered that the tinker-toy sink mounting brackets were bending, rather than pulling the sink flush with the counter top. We improvised some shims under the counter, to fix that (see photo).

    They finally got everything in place, with a bead of silicone under the edge of the sink, and the sink pulled down as flush as possible with the counter. The warped corner was still elevated enough to slip a sheet or two of paper between the sink lip and the counter. Soon enough, we discovered that we had lots of water leaking into the under-sink cabinet area, from the imperfect seal between the sink and the counter.

    To absolutely add the icing to the cake, the top-of-the-line sink baskets I ordered are very erratic about holding water in the sink. The slightest bump (frequent in a sink full of dishes) knocks the stopper loose.

    With all that frustration, and a sense of insecurity about the long-term prospects for our sink, faucet and counter, we called XXX to request (1) consultation with the XXX Company, regarding the sink warpage and general dissatisfaction with the problems, (2) further explanation as to how, when we ordered everything from one place, we got in the situation of having a faucet that didn’t fit the sink and (3) some compensation for all the additional hours of installation time and expense.

    XXX offered (then rescinded their offer) to reimburse us for the sink. XXX offered to compensate for extra installation hours. XXX added more silicone sealant around the outer edge of the sink. We requested a site visit from our XXX consultant, XXX.

    Today, the XXX consultant called having leveraged an offer out of XXX. We can either accept a refund of the cost of the sink ($522) and $120 compensation for the extra labor, or they will get us a new sink and pay $240, to cover past extra installation costs, and to cover new installation costs. We are inclined to accept the first offer, and not have to deal with another installation. It seems to me that if we put in another sink, we will have to either go through all the faucet modifications again, or get another faucet.

    Questions:

    1. Why were the sink and faucet not compatible? Is this something the supplier should be responsible for? XXX says this is entirely up to the plumber who is hired to do the installation, and there are frequent incompatibilities. Additionally, I looked at the specs available in my catalogs for the sink and faucet, and also looked on line. Nowhere, except in the template that is packaged with the sink, could I find reference to the size of the knockout.

    2. Will the modifications that we made to the sink and faucet be likely to cause us any long-term problems down the road a few years?

    3. Do you have any recommendations for sink baskets? The XXX consultant says that XXX has been difficult to work with, and XXX will refund our money, but we should get new baskets elsewhere.

    4. Do you have any wise words of advice as to what we should have done to avoid all these problems? This was partially a do-it-yourself project, but we had competent help, and feel that, what with ordering everything from one place, should not have run into all these problems.

  • the girl from Keyspan

    told me the solar domestic hot water program was brand new, I had a brochure for that and the large diameter evac tubes, but I misplaced them. I'll get the information, and I'll call you John for the next solar event.
    Thanks, Bob Gagnon

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  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    panels can be placed anywhere, Cosmo

    on vertical walls, on a rack in the yard.

    In some cases a panel on both east and west exposures and use a dual sensor control to toggle back and forth.

    I have one panel on my house that faces due north and it still plucks some energy, even mid winter.

    I'll be doing an 8 panel yard mounted array later this week, with a 800 gallon underground storage. I'll bring pics.

    hot rod

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  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,413
    OH THANKS Devon.......What am I ???????

    Chopped Chix Liver? You guys go...I'm in. Mad Dog

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  • CC.Rob_3
    CC.Rob_3 Member Posts: 33
    thanks

    Thanks Bob. Anxious to see what they're offering.
  • Blackoakbob
    Blackoakbob Member Posts: 252
    share info...

    > I have been reading this thread with

    > interest. This winter I installed 2 solar

    > thermal arrays. 1 has 60 heat pipe tubes with

    > the dual wall tube, and the other has 40 tubes

    > with the full vacuum and finned heat pipe. I am

    > trying to characterize each type. I have some

    > notes if anyone is interested. Note: the dual

    > wall types are much cheaper. This is what most

    > suppliers sell.

    >

    > The heat fluid flows through a

    > coil in the bottom of a indirect DHW tank.

    > There is another coil in the top of the tank. I

    > intended to remove heat from the top coil to

    > insert into the radiant floor loop. The heat

    > transfer capability of these coils are not up to

    > the task. I could see a 40 degree C difference

    > between the tank and the collectors. The upper

    > coil does not have a hope of maintaining

    > temperature even with one zone circulating. I

    > have lots of heat, the problem is heat

    > distribution I think that I will use both coils

    > to heat the DHW, thereby doubling the heat

    > transfer surface. For the radiant heat, I could

    > either use better heat exchanges, or combine the

    > systems and pipe solar heated fluid directly into

    > the radiant loops.

    >

    > I should note that I did

    > not have a roof line that would work, so I have

    > these mounted on stands at ground level. This

    > give me the opportunity to shut them down by

    > covering them with tarps. I have already had to

    > do this.

    >

    > I could elaborate more if anyone is

    > interested.

    >

    > Alan



    Hi Alan,
  • Blackoakbob
    Blackoakbob Member Posts: 252
    Share info....

    Hello Alan,
    I'm just trying to pick up the solar business after leaving it in the late 70's. Would you share with me the brand and type of solar you are using and the type of heat exchanger tank you are using? A picture of the install would be great. I appreciate your help.
    Best Regards,
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    HX sizing data for solar

    is hard to come by. I plan on building some copper coils for a homebuilt 800 gallon solar storage.

    I quizzed Siggy and he indicated that it is a fairly complicated and "fuzzy" exercise.

    I did get some rules of thumb from systems that have been sucessfull. I believe Peter from Oventrop Solar is working on some sizing info.

    From the solar to the tank (8 panels) I'm looking at 240 feet of 1/2" in 4- 60 foot 1/2" loops manifolded together.

    DHW from the tank will be 2- 60' loops of 1/2" manifolded to a 3/4 into the building.

    To pull radiant from the tank would be 240 feet also.

    25-30 lineal feet of copper HX per panel (32 sq. ft.)

    As you can see a lot of copper is needed to move solar energy around. And a lot of tank capacity to store it for a period of time.

    I'd welcome any other input on sucessful HX "homebuilt" designs.

    hot rod

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  • Alan_16
    Alan_16 Member Posts: 4


  • Alan_16
    Alan_16 Member Posts: 4


    I am also looking into building a solar business.
    I feel that DHW preheat system are reasonably well understood at this time, but integration into heating systems is still a bit of a black art.

    There is now a CSA standard (I am in Canada) for packaged solar DHW systems. This means that most suppliers will adopt a 'one size fits all' solution that has a CSA stamp. The main problem is the relatively high price for a system that is limited in its capability.

    A larger system capable of providing a significant portion of the heating load would have a better ROI. But this is not as simple or as 'turnkey' as a DHW system.

    I imported the solar collectors, solar tank, etc directly from a manufacturer in China. That process makes an interesting story! I hope to be able to import by the container load, and keep prices reasonable.

    I am using evacuated tube collectors, but that is not to down play flat plate collectors. I characterize the types as follows:
    Flat Plate

    Pros:

    very common

    cheaper (retail)

    Can achieve higher temperatures

    Presents more collector surface area per area of collector

    Cons

    expensive wholesale

    Can achieve higher temperatures

    higher reflection off flat surface

    contains more fluid (glycol costs)

    Single point of failure. no replaceable modules.

    Heat loss in very low ambient conditions.


    Evacuated Tubes

    Pros

    Cheap wholesale

    Fast heat recovery

    small amount of fluid (glycol costs)

    modular, can operate with multiple broken tubes.

    very little reflection.

    Virtually no heat loss in extreme low ambient conditions.

    somewhat self limiting on upper heat limit (still to high for glycol)


    Cons

    expensive retail

    lower collector surface vs size of collector

    Fast heat rise, can overheat if HX is not up to snuff.


    There 2 basic types of evacuated tube solar collectors.

    The "dewar tube" design that is like a thermos bottle. It has a double wall with the vacuum between the walls. The selective coating is on the outside of the inner wall.
    The tube itself is open at the top.
    This design is used in many applications.

    Attach them to a tank, and you have a convection style tank heater, suitable for warm climates.

    Attach them to an air plenum, and you have a solar air heater.

    Fill it with stream water, prop it up and leave it in the sun, and you have a solar drinking water disinfector.

    Stick a heat pipe in it, attach it to a header, and you have the standard solar hot water heater.

    These are made by numerous companies in China, and are cheap at wholesale rates.


    The other kind is actually older. It is sometimes referred to as a "Phillips Tube". This has a single wall closed end tube with a finned heat pipe inside a vacuum. This requires a glass/metal joint at the top of the tube. This keeps manufacturing costs higher.

    I have 2 30 tube "dewar tube" collectors connected in series as Array #1 and 2 20 tube "Phillips tube" collectors in series as Array #2. Both arrays are connected in parallel with one pump and controller (for now).

    Here is what I have observed.
    Array #2 gets up to heat first, even though it is behind array #1 and get morning light about 15 minutes later.

    At mid-day they both produce the same temperatures, but there is a higher flow rate across Array #1
    In the late day, Array #2 loses temp first, probably due to the directional nature of the fins on the heat pipes.

    As a general observation, they both work fine. Array #2 is much more expensive, and looks much more impressive.

    My real problem now is heat exchange capacity.

    I have attached a document on the "dewar tube" collectors. If I find the document on the other tubes I will add it later.
    I will take some pictures to post soon

    Alan
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