I checked my system for leaks

Dave_79

Thanks so much it's starting to make sense now. This weekend is supposed to be really mild so I can have the heat shut off for a couple of days, or can the heat be on in the zone that I'm testing? Am I also closing the water feed to the boiler or does that not matter since I'm closing the feed and return valves?

I drained some water out of the safety release on the boiler, I would say about 3 gallons in total, I'm sure you are laughing right now but I have no idea how many gallons the system holds. The pressure when cold tonight around 24psi. As I'm draining the water will I actually see the pressure decrease or does it take time...I'm just afraid I'll take too much out of the system and it will go below the 12psi that the system says it requires. Or would that not happen because the system would replenish itself?

I really appreciate all your help.

Dave_79

Checked the system for leaks

I received advice yesterday to turn off my water supply to the boiler and check the pressure gauge to see if it was leaking. The pressure dropped 2-3psi in over 12 hours. Is that enough of a pressure drop to indicate a leak. The pressure was around 25psi and is now in between the 25 and 20 mark. If that does indicate a leak, we have 3 zones will we be able to pinpoint which zone is leaking?

Timco

Only if you can isolate each zone. the return side should have an isolation valve, and you may have one on the supply, or you may have a iso valve on the pumps, assuming you have 3 pumps. Then be sure to leave the isolated zone's t-stat down. Systems usually run at about 10-12 cold. 25 is really high. 15 cold should be about max. You can isolate the boiler during the day to check it for leaks, with the system off. Any pressure loss (while cold) is a leak. Cooling water will drop prerssure, as will air in the system that becomes compressed when the water heats up.

T

Dave_79

The upstairs zone was on, then I shut if off and closed the water supply and closed the little screw on the top that lets air out of the system. So I guess my test will be off since the water in the upstairs zone would have been hot. If our pressure is too high when cold is there a way to lower it?

Timco

drain it(extra pressure)out through the boiler or any purge valve. 15# should be pleanty (cold) to service a 2 story. You can isolate a hot zone, and it would leak faster with the pressure, and if you don't have a gauge on it, after a few hours, see if any pressure comes through a bleeder valve on that zone.

Dave_79

Pictures of system

I've attached a picture of the system. There is the blue shut off valve from the hot water tank to the boiler but then on the same pipe there is a black shut off valve, you can see from the picture, what is the item that's in between the blue and black shut off valve. Is that some kind of bleeder valve.

And by isolation valves do you mean the yellow zone shut offs. I'm sorry for the ignorance. I've done all work in the house carpentry, electric, drywall, some plumbing but the heating system is new to me. I wish the builder left the manual for the boiler so I could learn about it.

Dave_79

If any zone is leaking it's the second floor zone. So from the picture I attached in an above reply can you tell if I can isolate that 2nd zone. We do have yellow shut off valves for each zone but I'm not sure if that is the return and if so I'm thinking that wouldn't help. I've read that when the copper pipes get hot they expand a bit, could it be possible that there is a tiny crack and when the pipe is expanded it leaks and when the pipe cools off the crack seals itself?

Timco

Form what it looks like, you would have to shut off the lellow handle by the pump to get the supply side, then one handel at a time on the return, but without a gauge on that zone, you will need to see if air still bleeds out of that zone after a day's work or so.(if not, no pressure on that zone because water leaked out of it.) or when you turn the one of three yellow handels back on after the day, listen if water seems to rush back into that zone. I do not see a flow check that would stop that from happening. The goal is to isolate a zone and see if it keeps pressure.

T

Timco

If your water feed is keeping things at 24 psi cold, it is set too high. 15 is about all you want. No matter turning off the make up, as you will be isolating the zones.

Hope the relief valve will re seal. Usually they drip until you replace it if you open it, but it is good to get it un stuck after years of sitting there.

If you go below 12, it sounds like the make up will just over fill it again. Set the makeup to 12, and it will keep it there. 3 gallons is what it would take depending on system size to get up to 24 psi. You may have dozens of gallons total. Mine took 15+ minutes to fill with the makeup bypassed. When you are up and done with the heat for the day, go down and throw the handles with the power service switch off to ensure there is no call for heat while everything is isolated.

T