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Question for steamhead
Steamhead (in transit)
Member Posts: 6,688
used the instructions for knee pads. It's obvious even without knowing what model boiler it is.
The near-boiler piping really should be redone. But is it banging, carrying water over into the mains, etc?
The near-boiler piping really should be redone. But is it banging, carrying water over into the mains, etc?
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Comments
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See attached pictures : right first, left second0 -
Left side
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Yes, right to the left of the boiler is a nice big water hammer, but the big problem is still that the heat isn't making its way to all of the radiators and that oil is burning like crazy. The PSI actually was 2.5 and is now 1.5 (the pressuretrol doesn't go to 1 psi).
The recommendation was to at at least redo the near-boiler piping that I showed in the first picture to be 27in from the water line and to no longer have a double feed out of the boiler for steam (that feed that comes out of the left) and that this, plus proper vents on the radiators will resolve the heating situation and of course, the water hammer.
The mains would still remain unvented, what do you think?0 -
You HAVE to vent the mains
which I believe we covered in another thread. BTW, what kind of boiler is it?0 -
Vent the mains first or worry about the boiler piping?
It's a Waltham boiler. Should I vent the mains first or worry about the piping? Obviously it's only 17 inches from the water table (vs. like 27) and it's piped out the left side of the boiler above the water table for no understandable reason.
You did mention this in the previous post, sorry for the redundant question, it's just that the guy who came out to look at it today felt that the mains did not need to be vented because there was not a tee connection and that proper venting on the radiators would be sufficient with the corrected boiler piping.0 -
Vent the mains first
and see how it does. But with that water hammer, I know you'll need to redo the near-boiler piping.
If you still have the boiler's instruction manual, it will tell you how it should be piped. If not, try to get this info from the manufacturer if they're still around. Tell prospective contractors you want it piped like it says in the manual. If they don't think they have to, find someone else.0 -
Is it odd to you that the steam feeds out on the top & the left?
Yup, got it. Thanks. I knew I had been told by everyone including yourself that the mains absolutely need to be vented, but just wanted to double check. What information should I supply to know how many Gorton 1s or 2s I need for the main vents? The length of the main runs and size of the black iron? Do I need to take in to account the near-boiler piping in these figures?
Where does the vertical main that goes up to the third floor get vented?
Unfortunately the boiler company is out of business. I don't believe the previous owners left us the manual, but I'll check. The steam man was really nice and seemed very knowledgeable. He came highly recommended. He was very confident that the water line to the point on the diagram needed to be 27in. and that 17in. was a huge part of the problem (not the water hammer, but the uneven steam distribution issue).
Does it seem odd to you that steam feeds are coming out of both the top and the left of the boiler? The left feed seemed odd to the steam man. In repiping, he was planning on capping off the left feed.
One other question for you. The Waltham unit is 25 years old and runs at 80.5% efficiency, it has been serviced every year since installation. Would you replace this unit just to replace it as part of this process or would you only worry about it once it stops working? It's not like we have money to do all of this, but we're trying to figure out what the right thing to do is to get the house to heat right and to stop wasting oil. Burning 70gal oil a week prior to it even getting that cold out isn't very productive, especially when the house isn't even warming equally.
I'd hate to spend a lot of money to have the boiler repiped to just have it break in a year and a lot of the boiler repiping may need to be redone, but I also don't want to buy a new boiler for no reason since it seems to work.0 -
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Pete you are 10 # lighter after that rant. I was in the same place last year only spending $500.00 a week and living with 62 deg while my tennents were in the 70s. Keep the faith. Most of the guys that knew about steam are long dead! you are going to find lots of guys who are nice and want to sell you a new system. That being said ( you might need a new system) but the best money I spent, was on an independent steam guy who frequents this site! This was after 3 other local companies gave there advice. Go to the find a professional spot on this site. all these guys talk and know steam. you will be happy!0 -
What I'd do with that side tapping
is put a tee on it, with the run (straight thru) horizontal and the bull (side opening) pointing up. Take a riser to the header off the bull, this will lower the exit velocity of the steam and improve performance. Put a plug in the end of the run, which you can remove to skim the boiler.
Here's a pic of a Columbia gas steamer my old company installed, you can see the plugged tee on the left side of the boiler.0
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