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water hammer recommendation

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matt_31
matt_31 Member Posts: 7
in THE MAIN WALL
I have run the heat loss calc that program from slant fin that is mentioned on the site and the heating system is considerably oversized for the house since to begin with the house had ZERO insulation and I've done alot of insulating. I also did the EDR calc for the radiators and yes the boiler is oversized for the load of the radiators by about 21%. Part of the oversize is my fault since I removed 1 radiator in a remodling project that would have had the boiler 12% oversized to begin with. The water hammer has not changed since the removal of the radiator. Last year I turned down the pressuretrol setting to cut in at .5psi and to cut out 1psi over that.

The water hammer noise is definitely in the piping in the basement and not in the radiators but I will check the vent on the radiator closest to where the noise is coming from.

Thank you for the advice

Comments

  • matt_31
    matt_31 Member Posts: 7
    water hammer recommendation

    Hi I am a homeowner with a 1930s cape with single pipe steam. On one of the two piping runs I get some pretty bad water hammer (about 30 bangs) at the start of a heating cycle. I've lived with it for 2 years but for some reason this year it is really getting to me.

    The run that has an issue leaves the boiler and goes up to just under floor joists and runs relatively level around the perimiter of the house till it gets to the corner where the water hammer occurs and after the corner it starts to pitch lower and back to the the boiler. I understand that the initial level run of pipe should be pitched back to the boiler but my basement isn't all that high to begin ((@6.5') with and I would like to not loose any more headroom since I hit my head enough already. Are there any ways to get around this without loosing headroom?

    If not what is a rough estimate to rerun piping approx 25' in a L shape (10' short side from boiler, 90 turn 1 radiator connection, 15' run to the next radiator connection and then a 90 turn). The current piping has asbestos that has been sealed in plastic by a previous home owner.
  • Jerry_15
    Jerry_15 Member Posts: 379


    You've probably got bad radiator valves, with which you're tryng to control heat in individual rooms. The valves must be all the way open, or all the way closed, which doesn't help if the valves are bad. Partial adjustment can create a big water trap in the rad, (water hammer delux), especially if your boiler is running at high pressure, or is overfired, or oversized from the git. Is the hammer coming on start-up, in the boiler room, or from individual rads after the system has been firing for awhile The operating pressure should be down around 2 psi max. Less is definately more on these rigs. I'd check the operating controls and valves before taking any extreme measures. Open all the valves, lower the operator to 1 psi, check your water level, put the lime in the coconut, and call me in the morning.
  • Jerry_15
    Jerry_15 Member Posts: 379


    On second look if you're boiler is original it's probably way oversized. Get a pro to de-rate it, and adjust the operating pressure down, down, down. With a slow burn, and 1/2 to 1 PSI, you might get away with your existing piping. I still think that's your problem. Also keep in mind that if there's been hammer, your air-vents have are probably shot. Good luck.
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