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Homeowner self install

don_163
don_163 Member Posts: 67
will end up with supplemental at best.I dont think you will be able to talk him into anymore then that.

Good luck to you anyway.

Comments

  • Tio
    Tio Member Posts: 1
    Homeowner self install

    I was at a home up here in Tonasket, Wa. doing plumbing repairs on a homeowner self install (we completely re-did his plumbing). I noticed he had radiant tubing stubbed throught the floor and I asked about them, he said he installed them himself but needed to talk to someone about sizing the boiler for it and finishing (doing all the) work. I asked him about the spacing for his radiant coils and he said that they are 1 foot off the outside wall to start and 2 foot on center from there totalling 4 loops none over 300 feet. The SQFT for the daylight basement is 768SQFT and identical requirements for upstairs. I realize this system is not correct but am still asking to see if there is a way to make the system in the basement work. So you know my first suggestion was to cap off what was there and run a new set done properly and pour lightweight.
  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    What material are the tubes in?

    ... if it was done in Gypcrete it might work most of the year, IF the home is well-insulated. Otherwise, it'll supplement, at best.

    Also depends on the pipe diameter, I suppose. ½" pipe @ 300 feet is at the allowable end of the spectrum. Anything smaller, and the resistance/flow noise through the pipe will become interesting, IIRC.

    Striping will be an issue... hope the DIY'er doesn't mind...


  • If the load isn't too bad, it'll work.. it'll stripe, it won't react fast, but it'll work. Do you know what kind of load he's looking at?

    How is it installed upstairs though? for a basement slab, that's one thing. For a main floor, that's another.
  • thorsgar252341
    thorsgar252341 Member Posts: 1


    The piping is 3/8" vanguard. I did not look but I believe that it probably is not even oxygen barrier pipe even since he also used this for his water piping. The DIY'er does not have it set what he would like to use for flooring yet and the winters can get down to -20 degrees around here with winds up to 50+ MPH in the winter. There has been none installed upstairs as of yet and the downstairs is going to be insulated by hay bales and the upstairs will be with R-19 insulation.
    I was thinking if we installed it properly on a wire grid on the existing concrete and poured gypcrete over it that we could do it properly this way. What do you all say?


  • ah, good lord. 300' of 3/8" eh?

    it's possible it'll work then.. but you need to do the load calc, figure a 20 degree delta T and see how the pump curves figure out with your needed flow and frictional loss.

    I'd tell him to carpet it, forget about the floor, and put in a radiant ceiling as an alternative. With the striping and the delta T, that's not going to be a great radiant floor system even if it will crank out the heat needed.
  • Steve Ebels_3
    Steve Ebels_3 Member Posts: 1,291
    Saved a little money

    "Saved a little money but wasted all he spent". That's how gramps used to say it.

    300' of 3/8" tube = a high head circ at minimum.

    That kind of spacing will definitely leave alternating warm and cold areas on the floor.

    From the sounds of it, there's not a ghost of a chance that it will heat sufficiently.

    Seeking alternative forms of heat is about all you can do at this point.
  • Ron Schroeder_3
    Ron Schroeder_3 Member Posts: 254
    come clean with your client.

    Always. You may lose the job in the short term but will retain your integrity and reputation in the community.

    If he listens, offer the REAL solution.
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