Recommend a new oil fired boiler setup?

Patchogue Phil_29

> <i>I thought LIPA would run the gas <BR>
> lines to your house up to 100 ft as long as you <BR>
> install gas heating? </i><BR>
<BR>
<BR>

Unless something changed during the last 2 or 3 years since my neighbor contacted LIPA. They were quoted beaucoup dollars, and the line goes to their driveway. Less than 75 to their house.

I remember that article in PM, I'll have to re-read it.

I like the idea of the coil in the buffer tank better than a tankless or even a seperate fired WH. I put a 50 gal WH as a storage tank for my present tankless coil. With a small bronze circulator the internal tankless coil is basically a heat exchanger.

Patchogue Phil_29

Recommend a New Oil Fired Boiler ?

I want to upgrade my present oil fired boiler system with better efficiency and for some new requirements.

Looking for recommendations on equipment. The new requirements will add some radiant infloor of new master bath, entrance/foyer and kitchen.

I'm pretty much stuck with oil. Nat gas is on my block but not in front of my house. Across the street neighbor got quoted MANY many thou$and$ for nat gas hookup. So I will stay with oil.

Presently I have a New Yorker steel boiler S-AP series with a Beckett burner. Boiler is almost 12 years old and the burner is 8 yrs old. Not very efficient I am sure. Presently heating about 1900 sq ft with fin tube.

I know I will need a heatloss calculation done. Once I have the remodeling building plans in hand, will that be enough information to go on?

After remodeling, will have about 3,000 sq ft with 1/3 of that on a new 2nd floor.

What type of boiler should I be looking for?

What kind of design - primary/secondary?

TIA for any advice.

Phil

Joe Brix

What about domestic hot water?

Tankless coil or a seperate oil fired water heater? I would recommend a cast iron boiler like a Biasi. Low mass and 3 pass design. Get an indirect HW tank and some boiler controls from Tekmar that will give you priority on the indirect, outdoor reset, and control a 3 way mixing valve to give you lower water temps for the radiant. I thought LIPA would run the gas lines to your house up to 100 ft as long as you install gas heating?

http://www.qhtinc.com/

Here's a great oil fired system design with high and low water temp requirements with an indirect.

http://www.pmmag.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP__Features__Item/0,2379,78589,00.html

Dirk Wright

Extending the gas main line is expensive, thus the added cost for you to hook up. I was quoted many thousands also several years ago. I stuck with oil thanks.

A great little water heater is the Toyotomi OM-148. I've had one in service over a year now and it's just endless hot water.

Patchogue Phil_29

Toyotomi OM-148

Kinda pricey, plus I'd have to add a second flue for it.

I will stick with one flame to make heat and hotwater.

Dirk Wright

I went from an electric tank type water heater to the Toyotomi and I saved 30-40$ per month on my electric bill with very little fuel oil usage. So payback for me is about 40 months. It makes plenty of hot water and is a very sophisticated unit. For example, they run a .85 gph nozzle @ 192 psi for about 1.1 gph total fuel usage. Efficiency is around 88%. Ignition voltage is 17KV instead of the usual 14KV. Stainless steel heat exchanger too. The controls on it are very complete, more so than any oil furnace that I've seen. Parts are expensive and hard to get though, but I've not needed any outside of a new nozzle, which is a standard Delavan size.