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Whats the best for my setup
Ron Schroeder_3
Member Posts: 254
Even if it does not condense for eight out of fifty-two weeks, that would be an appropriate decision to make.
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Comments
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What would be the best
boiler setup for what I'm trying to do ? I have a Apt. complex that has 18 units per building. 6 units have 30' of baseboard, 12 units of 14' of baseboard and all units have one bath and kitchen. Also complex has 2 comm. washer / dryer setups. Property owner wants the best out there but needs to save on fuel and energy. Would like to be energy star rated. Thought about comm. condensing boilers but return temp would be around 140 so then that would bring the eff. back down to a cast iron or copper-finned. What do the wallie pros think ? Remember price isn't a factor as much as fuel / energy savings.
TheFuture0 -
We'll assume that you have done
a preliminary heatloss calculation so as to size whatever boiler you ultimately recommend accurately.
You might be surprised as to how often a commercial condensing boiler actally condenses in installations exactly such as the one you propose. I have been involved with numerous commercial installations, especially where some significant component is the DHW load, in which condensing boilers were chosen even though we would have traditionally thought the needed supply temperatures to be too high to benefit from condensing technology.
In the most unlikely installation of all, the building is entirely heated with relatively short Baseboard, a hot tub is heated via a heat exchanger, and a swimming pool also via a heat exchanger. According to the building owner, all produce non-stop condensate. Be aware however that a condensing boiler is not a condensng boiler is not a condensing boiler. This is not a typo. Not all condensing boilers are created equally. Some do not condense across the entire heat exchanger or under all operating conditions.
As a rule of thumb: significant DHW components qualify for condensing boiler applications as do BB installations where there is generous emitter sizing. All old radiant retrofits qualify of course. Consider motorized three way valves to drop the return temperature even further.
Another point to ponder, even if the boiler cannot be made to condense during the coldest two months of the Winter, significant condensation and resultant energy savings occur during the other ten months. Don't discount the energy conservation potential just because you cannot make 95% each and every month.
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Vertomat VSB-17
Sounds like the way we might go this route but I wasn't sure if it will condense to get my customer the eff. he wants.
TheFuture0 -
88%
would be a converstaive eff number - coupled with the very high heat transfer with the product he recommends (and has in his own home) - what fred suggests is a real posibility.0
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