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\"Engineered\" above the sub-floor dry systems...
ALH_4
Member Posts: 1,790
I think they both have their place. It depends on access. If below the floor is not accessible, then one must run the tubing above. Above floor ThermoFin-U also makes a VERY solid floor once everything is together.
I prefer 1/2" tubing above the floor because of layout considerations. Frequently a bedroom can be carried with a single loop. I also prefer systems with more flexibility in the layout and spacing.
In general, below the floor extruded plate systems are probably the best balance of cost and performance.
-Andrew
I prefer 1/2" tubing above the floor because of layout considerations. Frequently a bedroom can be carried with a single loop. I also prefer systems with more flexibility in the layout and spacing.
In general, below the floor extruded plate systems are probably the best balance of cost and performance.
-Andrew
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Comments
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...do you like them?
Now I will admit I've never been a big fan of this approach (heck, I've never even used the stuff myself), but over the years the "engineered above-the-subfloor" radiant panel systems have apprarently grown in popularity. Seems like you pile 10 tons of this stuff in the back of your truck, go the job and play flooring contractor, and then install your tubing.
For those of you who use this kind of system, what is your favorite product - and why? Seems to me the thinner and lighter the better, yes? Have you had any issues/problems with this kind of product? Any ideas on what would make this kind of product better than what is currently available?
TIA for your thoughts on this...0 -
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Expensive and time consuming
but they fill a need. I've used the Watts Subray system. I like that it uses regular 3/8" pex tube. I feel the installation is best handled by a carpenter. Generally less expensive labor, and they are better equipted to do an accurate and fast installation.
hot rod
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Picard Plates
Andrew, are you installing the U-fin over sleepers, channel up?
FWIW, I have seen the C-fin used the same way; install direct on subfloor, snap in tubing and then fill the voids with strips of plywood.
BTW, I concur with you on the under-the-subfloor-with-extruded-plates approach. I just need to my open my senile brain to this "thermal board" type of product...0 -
Hot Rod!
I concur with your observations! I'm just amazed at how many seem to like this approach. But then again, simple things amaze simple minds...
Send my regards to Ellen!0 -
If the floor plans allow it,
my first vote would be cast for Warmboard in new construction. ½" tubing so one loop can cover the room, good heat transfer via the Al skin, etc. Plus, someone else can assemble the thing, as long as you provide them with the proper template up front.
However, given some architects penchants for "interesting" home shapes, this product would be harder to adopt. Those kinds of homes would benefit from the free-form approach that Pex-Al-Pex + staples + gypcrete allows.
I too am a big fan of the Thermofin system. Unfortunately, I only heard about it after we had already put down SV Climate Panel. The ½" tubes that the Thermofin system allows may raise the floor a bit more than climate panel or other systems, but you gain so much in terms of reducing manifold stations, reduced head pressure, system responsiveness etc. that I think it's worth it.0 -
Rau-panel
If you haven't tried Rau-panel, you should consider it. I have used many different dry systems. Rau-panel goes down the easiest and delivers the heat at low water temps. It uses 3/8" pex so the tube is easy to find and reasonable loop lengths can be designed. It only adds 5/8" to the floor height. No I'm not employed by rehau. This stuff works and professionals should know about it. There is too much hokey crap on the market IMHO.0 -
Rau panel
Troy, thanks for your feedback! In your opinion, what is it that makes this product easier to install than others?
TIA for your insight!0 -
Do it all the time, Doc.
Above floor plate and tube is the only thing I do when hardwood is involved. We used to use UFin, but have switched to Wirsbo Joist Trak or CFin (when I can actually get it) because it can be a one man operation. We leave the carpentry work to the capenters! Way too much crap involved when doing wood floors and gyp. And, unless it's a really small area, we don't do joist bay radiant for new construction.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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I like it!
HB, I like this approach! Thanks for posting the pics, too - does the carpenter cut all of the pieces or do you supply them?
BTW, I would like to hook up with you on the phone - you know where to find me, yes? If not, shoot me an email to npn1@optonline.net with your number and I'll give you a shout.
Thanks HB!0 -
Actually
We are now supplying all the plywood parts for this type of install. We are creating the return bends on our CNC router using plywood that is slightly thicker than 23/32 in order to account for the thickness of the fin. HB, we now have several OEM's on board selling the ThinFin product. In the past it was difficult to get our own distributors to stock larger quantities.
-Andrew0
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