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Mud in the Boiler

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Empire_2
Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
is how did the mud get in the system in the first place. Could it possibly be rust and corrosion,? almost like a chocolate color? I would continue to try cleaning out all pipping either by forced perging or boiler cleaner like Hercules additive. You must get it out. I think everyone will agree with that.

Mike T.

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  • Paul Fredricks_2
    Paul Fredricks_2 Member Posts: 35
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    Plugged up Peerless

    I've got a customer with a 1 year old peerless WBV-04 steam boiler. Piped off the front and back bottom tappings is a hot water loop that runs to a small plate heat exchanger for a small heating loop.

    The call came in as no heat in the small loop. The loop only got heat when the boiler steamed. The operating control is set at 190. We flushed the heat exchanger and got a lot of mud out. We then put a tube in the bottom of the boiler and blasted out a lot of mud from there. I then put in a bottle of Dry Steam, the only steam boiler cleaning product I had on the truck. I let that boil a bit, skimmed off the top, flushed half out and left the rest in to flush out today.

    My question is this. Am I on the right track? I'm sure there is still mud up in the sections which is keeping the loop from getting hot water. What's the best way to get the rest out.

    We also found a leak in a remote area which has been causing the boiler to take on fresh water.
  • Paul Fredricks_2
    Paul Fredricks_2 Member Posts: 35
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    Yeah, chocolate, Hershey's best. It's an old house and this is the 3rd boiler in 30 years. The guy flushes the bottom 2 drains every 2 weeks.
  • George_10
    George_10 Member Posts: 580
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    Our steam cleaner will not only

    help clean the boiler but also the steam pipes.
    Go to our web site and look under residential steam.

    Hydro-Solv 9150 is the cleaner and Boiler-Pro 903
    is the treatment product.

    The constant flushing of the system is helping to continue the corrosion and the mud, which are corrosion and scale bi-products. A thoroughly cleaned and treated system should not need to be flushed as often thereby raising the health of the system.

    If you need further help call me at 800-543-5975.

    George Hunt or Dwight Hedgpeth
  • Paul Fredricks_2
    Paul Fredricks_2 Member Posts: 35
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    Thanks All

    Kind of a vicious circle. He flushes the boiler to get rid of the mud, but the new water causes more corrosion. We did find a leak in an inaccessible space which will cause more water to be added. That's what you get for 70 year old pipes. We'll do what we can.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
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    \"George\"

    I think you will agree that all corrosion needs to be flushed out THEN treat the boiler with your product...Constant flushing? where did you hear that???
    The pipes are probably very old, but try to save the existing pipping if you can. This problem was a long time in the making in my opinion.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
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    Paul, the best way to clean that boiler

    is to flush it out. Literally, with a hose under street pressure while the boiler is cold. You'll need good-sized tappings at the top and bottom of the boiler and a bucket brigade to catch all the sludge that will come out.

    When we install steamers we leave a minimum 1-1/4" plug on top (which is usually the skim tapping) and a similar plug on the bottom for flushing purposes.

    This condition was partially caused by fresh water but I'll bet much of the dirt was out in the system and worked its way back to the boiler. Try flushing the return lines out also. Then skim the boiler to get rid of any remaining oil and grease.

    You may need to do this several times before the boiler and system are clean.

    As to chemicals- check the boiler's instructions. I think the WBV still uses push nipples instead of gaskets, but Peerless may still have something to say on using chemicals.

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
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