Installing Ciruclator flanges

Plumdog_2

I take the motor out of the pump housing; bolt the flanges up temporarily without the gasket; then clamp the housing gently in your vise. Use teflon tape and dope over the top. You can feel a good threaded joint when it goes together; it is smooth with even torque all the way around. How tight is good question. I would say about 60 ft-lbs of torque. Use your big adjustable wrench to avoid hacking the copper. Then you can mount the whole piece and sweat (or whatever) it in place using a magnetic torpedo level on the face of the housing for that extra little bit of perfection. Put the motor back in (you have to rotate it to get the electrical box on the side of your preferance or the top) and then later; when your all done, find the gaskets and remember to put them in.

Heatman_2

Installing circulator flanges

help wallies, whats the best way to tighten in your pre-soldered nipple and adapter into a pump flange. If I do it on the ground with 2 wrenches, i get leaks, if I use my ridig vise to clamp the copper pipe, it scars and bends the pipe. There has go to be an easier way.

[Deleted User]

When I was working in the field....

I used to have a piece of unistrut with two bolts long enough to make it through the strt and into the flange. This allowed me to cinch up the strut in a tri stand, and then I could set the flange on the bolts, insert the adapter and tighten to my hearts content...

*TINK*

Aw crap...

Watch your torque.

ME

jeff_51

two pipe wrenches and xpando

have been using xpando for ten years and never a leak. Also have used long bolts (allthread rod) and chain vice, but never carry vise anymore. I know I am an xpando freak, but the stuff works

Long Beach Ed

Iron Flanges

I've had so much trouble with iron pump flanges and copper pipe that I began using brass flanges about ten years ago.

On any application with wide teperature ranges I'd get leaks with the iron and corrosion.

LB Ed

hr

Why not use sweat flanges?

and take the threaded joint out of the pictiure.

I use both the Taco brass and Intermountain. The Taco's take a lot of torch to heat up, however. I like the Intermountain flange also as I can press fitting to it.

I also welded up this simple flange tool. 3/8 steel plate with grade 8 bolts. I've had a 24" pipe wrench on this baby to remove stubborn flanges.

hot rod



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joeoilman

i use b+g ball valve flanges on all pumps now. only way to go. i don't give the customer a choice. they get the flanges with the pump or call somebody else.

Alan(OnVacationInOregon)Forbes

Same here

B & G seem to be one of the few that makes the flange and the ball valve in two pieces. This allows you more flexibility in positioning the ball valve in relation to the pump.

And to respond to your question, the B & G flanges have nice wrench flats so that you can back up the valve while tightening the nipple or male adaptor.

We never used isolation flanges until the first time I had to replace a pump; we switched to Grundfos iso flanges until we realized the screwdriver stop didn't have enough leverage to turn the ball valve, especially after a few years of corrosion build-up. Taco was next, Webstone and now B & G is the current favorite.

Jeff Lawrence_25

I'm with joeoilman and Alan

The B&G iso-check ball valve flanges are all I do now.

I do have a couple sets of the Taco threaded flanges laying around if anyone wants them...

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jeff_51

have just started to use the B&G as well

really love em. Stopped using the isolations that you had to use a screw diver (now hex drive) cause they seize. Somtimes ya gotta kiss some frogs.

hr

Grundfos went 1 step further

They use a plastic ring to make it a true dielectric connection. This should please even the hard nosed inspectors that need to see dielectric unions, or connections on the boiler.

Valve and flange look need identical to the B&G China import.

hot rod

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