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DHW tankless coil
adayton_2
Member Posts: 130
I will have to examine it (chamber) closer, which is difficult with just a very small access hole. I am guessing that the tech is calling it correct concerning the "crumbling" fire chamber. This he said is a real bear to replace. Something about jacking up the whole boiler (rigging in mid-air)in order to slide in a new chamber insert (from underneath??)....This I would do IF the steel fire chamber (heat xchanger)is NOT cracked as he says. Is it that hard to inspect these boilers xchangers? I am used to typically larger cast iron types that have large enough front access doors that you can stick your whole head (and a light) inside the firebox for a look see. Also he may have been observing "cracks" from the top where he did a brush & vac of the tubes. i.e., perhaps from the tube side (though that sounds far fetched) he noticed "cracks/checks/crazing", because I can not imagine that he got his head INSIDE the boiler chamber, lol...:-)....
Alfred
Alfred
0
Comments
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DHW tankless coil
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DHW tankless coil
in an old (Atlantic??) boiler is CLOGGED so badly with high mineral content water that the DHW does not even get hot any more. Question is, do these coils get coated with calcium/minerals on the OUTSIDE of the coil that is inside the boiler OR do they get clogged up INSIDE the coil as well? Second question is what is recommended process/procedure to clean the coil? i.e., can the boiler be "acid" cleaned like one does to a steam boiler? and how do you clean the inside of the coil?
Boiler is a Model KD131AP, any hope getting speecs on this boiler and maybe a replacement coil?
Alfred0 -
Alfred
The coils build up inside themselves. This happens when all of the minerials and elements that are in our drinking water are boiled out of suspension while making hot water.
Slowly over time the minerals build up on the walls of the coil, making the coil diameter smaller and smaller and insualting the domestic water from the boiler water. This is what reduces output.
Acid washing used to be done quite often in our area but it is Messy and dangerous and not for the weekend warrior. Special pumps are used to circulate the acid through the coil as it wash's away the build up. This is done of course, After the coil is disconnected from the potable water supply.
Problems arise when old coils that have been damaged and weakend from the minerals, have the acid eat through the wall of the coil and create leaks.
Many companys prefer to replace the coil. This can be a tough job also as the bolts will often snap off and need to be drilled and tapped. Again, in my opinion, not a weekend job, unless you are comfortable drilling out the old bolts and tapping. It can be done.
If you are going to stay in the house for a while, I feel a better option is to disconnect the coil and install a indirect hot water heater. This will give you better production of hot water. The coil for transfer of heat is boiler water instead of domestic water and is less likely to clog since the minerals have already been "boiled" out of the heating water. Also the coil is larger.
So thats my opinion. Good Luck with what ever you decide.
Scott
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it's over
get an indirect heater acid washing and coil replacement are not for amatures. Acid washing is dangerouse. People have been asphixiated, blinded, pulmanarily disabled.0 -
DHW coil replacement
is not only trouble.. The unit turns out to be a New Yorker and DHW replacement coils are available, aprox $200-$250 parts or $400 install included. Turns out the Steel unit has fire chamber degradation and purportedly has visible cracks (heat chamber??) So, as I understand it these el cheapo steel units (-vs- Cast Iron) the fire chamber is a real BEAR to change and the cracking in the heat xchanger issues make for a real strong candidate for a replacement boiler. Thanks for the directions though for coils.
Alfred0 -
New yorkers are good boilers. Make sure the guy that is telling you to replace it knows what he is talking about.
I would suggest a second opinion.
Ed0
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