cutting suggestions

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round? If not a chain saw is about as quick as it gets.Although they hate nails!

It would take a mighty drill motor and operator to drill holes that large with a self feed bit :) Probably need a extremely slow hole saw.

Lennox has a new single, carbide tooth hole saw on the market. Supposed to be very fast and less grab??

Or the laser from "Goldfinger"

hot rod

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Keith_8

cutting suggestions

This question is for the roughing in specialist.

I did a walk thru at a soon to be converted mill last week.

The floors are 4" thick planks that are at least 100 years old. Not sure what type of wood it is. Any suggestions on methods for cutting holes? Mostly 4", 5" and 6". There will be numerous duct penetrations as well.

My understanding is that they are going to pour gypcrete after the holes are sleeved.

Trying to get a handle on how many hours to alot for drilling and cutting.

Keith

EBEBRATT-Ed

not much help but I have cut that stuff before. It is probably really hard wood from trees that are extinct. Allow more time than you think you need. Probably 2 1/2 inch thick tounge and groove. What about an angle iron support around the opening to keep the floor from falling???


ED

Brad White_9

How about a Core Drill set-up

with a Hole-Hawg type hole cutter? Seems a hand-held will break a few wrists if you catch a nail. And you will.

keith

Core bore

My mind keps thinking about some sort of a core boring machine. Similiar to what is used with concrete. To my knowledge no one makes a wood bit that is adaptable to the C.B. machine.

A chain saw is a good option for the square ducts. Although with gypcrete being poured after it may just work for the piping holes.

Any thoughts on a chain saw blade that cuts nails?

Keith

jackchips_2

No suggestions

Keith but thanks for the memory.

I did a bathroom addition to an old mill that was being re-activated with the shuttles (I forgot the actual description)for making yarn. When those machines got synchronized, which happened once or twice per shift, that old mill actually swayed and you could feel it going back and forth. Obviously the building was designed for it.

As to the plumbing work, the floor was made out of a hard wood and was 8" thick in most locations. The building was at least 100 years old when we were doing the work in the mid 70's.

I used a Milwaukee angle drill, long bits and a Milwaukee sawsall with 12" blades. As hot rod mentioned, there were plenty of nails and I became an expert at sharpening bits. I also had plenty of blades.

I'm afraid that's all that comes to mind but the best part of the memory was the two gentlemen I worked for. It was a T & M contract (verbal!) and they did not question one invoice.

Best of luck.

Jack

Eric Johnson_3

chainsaw

They do make carbide chainsaw chains and you can buy very narrow bars designed for wood carving. Match those two up and you might have a good hole-cutting tool. Still wouldn't want to hit a nail, though, because it will probably damage the chain and possibly kick the saw back at the operator. You might want to rent a metal detector in any event.

Don \"Grumpy\" Walsh

wood core bits

Here is a lead on some wood cutting core bits. Their website says they have them up to 24" in diameter. Sure wouldn't want to be on the motor end of one of those when it hits a knot!! Hope this helps.

http://advantage-drillbits.com/auger.html

Keith_8

Thanks

Thanks for the tip Grumpy. I left an email for them to contact me.

Keith

rob brown

boring holes

i can attest to the 1 tooth hole saws effectiveness.drills for 4" pipe, thru nails, less kickback, and not a nick on it's 1 tooth in 2 years use.a little pricey, about $125 2 years ago, but how many regular hole saws, or even self feeds thru all those nails would still be serviceable? rb

jeff_51

gota agree

the single tooth lennox is great. The timberwolf on low will not kick you. Have drilled many holes through wood with core bits, sloooooooowwwwww and burns. Not a good way to go and I don't know of anybody that makes a wood bit for them either. You can plunge cut a chain saw if you are careful. I have to agree with previous posts, that prolly would be the best way to go. Expanding foam around the sleeves will solve any issues with oversized holes. Even If you have to use fire caulk, I think it would be cheaper than alot of labor.

keith

Advantage-drillbits

Grumpy you are the man!

I spoke with Chad from Advantage yesterday. He emailed me some pictures of custom bits he has manufactured for just this type of application.

They produce carbide tip bits that fit on a core boring machine. Just what the doctor ordered. To many holes to be drilled with a hole hog or right angle drill of any sort.

Thanks again,

Keith