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Leak in floor radiant - Will boiler \"stop leak\" work?

Ericjeeper
Member Posts: 179
Could always give black pepper a try.. But my favorite proven radiator stop leak. Raw Egg whites added to a hot system.The hot water will cook em. I know this sounds kookey.But it does work on car radiators that have busted open.
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Leak in floor radiant - Will boiler \"stop leak\" work?
A copper tube in-slab (circa 1960) radiant heat system connected to a Weil McLain CGi 80k boiler developing leaks due to expansion cracks in concrete... will a boiler "stop leak" product work to seal up the numerous tiny fissures?0 -
Just curious in general about efficacy of any stop leak product
I don't know the answer to your question, although I am very curious to hear about any replies regarding the use of "stop leak" products on hot water systems. I currently don't have any leaks, but I have wondered if it might be a good preventive measure on older systems like mine(~80 years) where a lot of piping is in unseen areas to run some sort of stop leak through the system every few years to stop any pinholes or other seeps from getting worse *shrug*
Al
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Epoxy pipe relining
Check to see if there are any epoxy pipe relining/restoration companies around. This is a process that "restores" older domestic water piping using a thin epoxy blown through with compressed air that "paints" the inside of the pipe with epoxy. Seals the leaks and creates a durable interior finish that is smoother than the old copper. Some links:
http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/epoxy-pipe-lining
http://www.dhcd.state.md.us/website/document/Pinhole_Leaks_in_Copper_Plumbing.pdf
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it might....
but you will also insulate the inside of your pipes and boiler...are there seprate loops? try to isolate if so...kpc
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Yes, there are a total of 5 loops in the system, I have jackhammered the slab to fix leaks in a couple of the loops where I could find them, but since the boiler constantly calls for re-fill water, I know there are many more leaks (about 1800 sf of slab) where the water is going down into the ground, instead of up into the dwelling where I can find it.
I have shut down one loop thought to be the worst offender, thus heading into a Chicago winter with 20% of the heating surface inoperable.
The R-value of a milimeter of epoxy would not be significant in the efficiency of the system overall, my hesitation is I've heard the cost of this process is very, very expensive...0 -
if I runs into
When I get the same problems with multi leaks in copper radiant system. I go into the next best system, install cast iron baseboard system. Did a few with my expert carpetner in tow to repair walls0 -
Loop Leaks
Due to layout / window area of house, new baseboard (of any type) not a practical option. If anyone has experience with "stop leak" in hot water systems, I'd love to hear about it before I start down the path of changing sytems out. Thanks!0 -
haven't had good luck
using stop leak on old radiant. if you turn off the auto feed and the pressure plummets it will not work, sometimes the cement will eat the copper so it is all coroded.
Where you jack hammered, what did you find? Corosion? or a break?
we're still talking band aids, you are going to have to replace
options
new radiant, can you raise the floor?? pour a new light weight floor
or
hydro air, is there a place for it?
there really is no magic pill, stop leak will usually require so much that the rest of the system, boiler, circ, will suffer
good luck0 -
It's not a matter of If at this point in the systems lifespan
It's a matter of when do you want to start down the road of a system overhaul.0 -
Radiant leak pathology
From the areas I've jackhammered, I've primarily found what appear to be tiny stress cracks where the seasonal / thermal expansion / contraction of the concrete slab has caused the pipe to fail. As we all know, concrete is rife with thousands of tiny cracks, each a potential stress fracture for embedded copper pipe. The area around the cracks shows some degree of calcium / mineral deposit, I assume from the disolved minerals in the water and the presence of calcium in the nearby concrete. Corrosion per se doesn't seem to be the issue.
Re-pouring thin layer or Warmboard type options impractical as ceiling heights are already too low, and extensive perimeter of exterior patio doors present threshold issues (kind of a 1960's contemporary design).
Thanks!0
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