Foam board insulation for radiant latest trends?

Dave_4

how about using 4x6 treated lumber for garage door 'thresholds' seem it would make a resonable thermal break and you can drive on it?

GW

what's the best?

Hi guys, broke ground yesterday for our new shop; I can't beleive the time has come, bought the land over two years ago.

I'll have a couple of 2000 sq ft shop areas and 2000 sq ft of office/meeting room/bathrooms/excercise room/hall. The middle part of the building (the two shop areas are to the right and left of the middle office area) will have radiant as well, but my main question is slabs (middle section is wood framed with basement below it only).

Can anyone share their comments on edge insualtion? I remember about 9 years ago when I first became a wally there was some talk on this. How do I best get the 2" foam to meet up with the top of slab, especially at the garage bays?

Thanks for the help!

Bet your bippie there will be gigas worth of pics in the months to come; I'll have a mind blowing mechanical room.

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Brad White_159

Some Thoughts

I always like the 2-inch perimeter buffer and "joint strip". At garage bays, just thinking out loud, no more critical joint. Edge loss and mega-door loss...

What about covering it with a screw-down metal threshold cover? A bit of a thermal bridge but if gasketed underndeath and with flush screws, I think that would work.

The regular perimeter I have seen covered with trim, a faux wall built in-board and overhanging enough to cover the joint. Power outlets and such were run in the stud construction, otherwise they would have been surface-mounted.

Sounds like an awesome project! Has to feel good to have this start into reality. Looking forward to the pics!

Brad

Brad White_159

Mmmmmm.

5.5 inches at call it 1.25 R value if softwoods. De-rate that because of the metallic salts maybe and call it an ever R-1. That is like a bit over an inch of EPS. Not bad, JP! I think that is a reasonable approach, not as good as R-10 but very practical and simple. I like it as an alternative.

GW

nice

That's a great idea. I wonder if there's any way to make it not so "wood" looking. Paint maybe? I wonder if a 12' long piece PCV Trex decking material to improve the look some?

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G.Kaske

Zip Cap

Why not use "zip cap" on top of your foam board. After you are done pouring you remove the plastic zip cap, and fill with "NP-1" a urethane sealant. Comes in limestone, water proof,and will last for ever espesially in your drive bays. You just cut the foam a 1/2" lower to allow for the zip cap.

Another approach would be to 45 the foam board at the top. so when the pour is finished you won't see any foam. Then use NP-1 to seal the joint.

Gordy

GW

zip cap

where are these things purchased? Thanks,
Gary

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GW

ahh

http://www.greenstreak.com/SubPacks/Zip_Cap_Flyer.pdf



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kevin coppinger_4

I would do an...

ICF foundation..that would give you 2" on either side. I have a builder that does these w/ the whole building gies you a r-40 wall...2200 ft2. house cost $400.00 to heat here in NH last year...check out Amvicsystem.com kpc

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GW

not for this job

the foundation is already costing me about 60G. I could see if you have a basement, but I have about 6 or 7' of foundation wall popping out of the earth.

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hr

Slab on grade metal building detail

We have the metal supplier break a z flashing out of the same color metal as the building or trim. This covers the edge and 6 inches or more of the edge foam.

I used the pull strip, over 1/2" expansion strip, on my shop and it seems a good thermal break.

Treated lumber seems to shrink a lot after drying. Then swells after getting wet. Then water enters, freezes and may lift the slab. Think I would use a Trex type product before treated lumber.

hot rod

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G.Kaske

Not quite

A well stocked concrete supplier should carry, or be able to order for you. It comes in a multitude of sizes for thickness and depth of joint wanted.

G.Kaske

Type of foundation

Gary I guess I'm not clear on the slab for your shop. Is this going to be a straight slab floater type where the slab and walls are monolithic to below the frost line. Or are we talking foundation walls with a slab inside of the walls poured seperately.

GW

latter

Hi G.

It's a little funky to explain. The perc lifted the septic system and therefore the entire building. 120 feet by 50. There are 3 general areas, an office area in the middle (this section only has an 8' basement under it) and the two shop areas that are to the right and left will be on slab.

Anyway, the walls get poured first. The structural engineer (I learned she used to design bridges, no joke!) beefed the living daylights out of the footings (6.5 feet wide) because the foundation is 13 foot walls (approx. 6 feet in the ground and 7 feet out of the ground, with all the fill going back in it sort of resembles an above ground swimming pool. The front of the building will have about 5 feet of fill brought in (again, building up the septic system), so the front walls are only 5'. A bit unique, but the location is nothing less than supreme (state road between two bussling towns).

Thanks for the advice


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