Stapleups

paul reardon

It is vital on staple ups to use the extruded plates with the corresponding manufacturers tubing. The plates also make installation easy compared with stapling, and as far as stapling we don't do it anymore, we use the click hangers or insulated nail clips, we just had too many staple gun problems down the road although many will swear by them. If you use plates you will find that you only will be placing one clik at the ends anyways. It is also equally important to get at least the full depth of the joist space filled with insulation. 8" min. IT won't work without insulation. Also we have noticed nails need to be bent over, insulate the rim joists and make the joist holes larger than smaller, the carpenters are not going to like you after this. Don't box the tubing in, it expands like crazy and most failures are when it gets boxed in. If the tube is resting against something, failure is a matter of time. Windows and doors are always problem areas, you might wish to check out RUNTAL radiators. Every job we have done...the customer after a year or two has installed additional heat, in some form or another, whilst still enjoying the warm floors. Just a few thoughts...

Arthur

I've been involved in the heating trade for over 40yrs, 20 of them self employed, Mainly on radiator systems,Hot air furnaces,steam boilers gas fitting. With a few in concrete under floor radiant installations.
But one system I've never been involved in is a staple ups.
I've looked at every site/article I can find on the search engines from Radiantec, to John Siegenthaler and while they all proclaim how good it works, I'm left wondering if it really works as good as they say.
The old saying still holds true there is nothing like hearing it from the horses mouth.
You guys who have use staple ups how well did it work any tips for a newcomer.

Ragu_5

Narroc...

I've done a bunch, and yes they work. The biggest things I've learned are the following: get a radiant heat loss done, use extruded plates rather than the thin ones and consider using Pex/Aluma/Pex.

The biggest problem with staple up, for me, is that sometimes the water temp has to be so high to provide the necessary comfort level, that much efficiency is lost. That's the time to start looking at the various top of floor systems that approach in slab for efficiency (due to much lower water temps).

Also, I've gone toward motorized mixing or injection with outdoor reset; I've pretty much stopped using 3 way tempering valves.

You'll get a lot of responses on this one frome guys with a lot more experience, but that is what I have learned to date. Good luck!


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Wayco Wayne_2

Ragu

> I've done a bunch, and yes they work. The biggest

> things I've learned are the following: get a

> radiant heat loss done, use extruded plates

> rather than the thin ones and consider using

> Pex/Aluma/Pex.

>

> The biggest problem with staple

> up, for me, is that sometimes the water temp has

> to be so high to provide the necessary comfort

> level, that much efficiency is lost. That's the

> time to start looking at the various top of floor

> systems that approach in slab for efficiency (due

> to much lower water temps).

>

> Also, I've gone

> toward motorized mixing or injection with outdoor

> reset; I've pretty much stopped using 3 way

> tempering valves.

>

> You'll get a lot of

> responses on this one frome guys with a lot more

> experience, but that is what I have learned to

> date. Good luck!

>

> _A

> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

> 428&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

> Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

> "Find A Professional"_/A_



Question. Would you call a system with plates a staple up? I've always thought that the term staple up refered to a system without plates. BTW I agree that using extruded plates is the way to go, after you do a heat loss of course. WW

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hr

For extruded plate

I'd suggest a 140- 145 supply temperature limit. That's the number the plywood and manufactured floor manufactutres are comfortable with.

If the load cannot be met with that temperature, add some supplemental.

Radiant underfloor works great if designed and installed properly.

Floor coverings are usually the make or break issue. Carpet and pad are pushing it sometimes.

hot rod

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Weezbo

be very careful in your floor coverings..

sometimes all of a sudden the carpet shows up and it is not what you had specified...

do a heat loss , think about it a bit , dial it thru an injection or 4 way ,plates and insulation,outdoor reset go with the lowest temp you can for efficentcy...read where what when why and how much ..the first one could eat a lot of time... spin one in a ranch .rambler . over a crawl space first...

then , if you could use some auxillary heat, or if you want to see specific points of interest,:fasteners, hole sizes,bending ratios, lay out, insulation, temp distribution up down sideways whatever , you can see all the minor technicalities and "variables" HRV duct,DWV pipe, nails for the underlayment, the oops i hit a pipe staple or brad nail..etc etc..well, hope it helps....

Ragu_5

Narroc...

I listen to Hot Rod, and I do what he suggests. He will not lead you down the wrong path, Grasshopper.

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