Hard water scale problem...opinions please!

T Towne

Hey Ken

Thanks for the reply. The H/X has not been killed yet as it was just installed but that is the reason I need to do someting soon. I had the water tested when the well was drilled and hardness was mild but that was 3 years ago. Are you suggesting a regular water softener that you can get at H/D or lowes? Thanks again.

Tom

T Towne

Hard water scale problem...opinions please!

Hello Guys

I just installed a Lochinvar Knight 80k boiler to my heating system. I used my Bradford and White W/H as an inderect by way of a flat plate H/X(it has space heating ports and 1 in solid insulation). When removing the NPT plugs from the ports I noticed about 3/16 scale on the plugs. My question is, what are your opinions on the best bang for your buck for the treatment of this water, water softener? Reverse osmosis? other? I dont want to break the bank on this if bossible. The water really does not feel hard at all when showering so it took me by suprise. Thanks for your time and opinions.

Tom

Ken_40

Unless there are

other issues with the water, take a sample, have it tested for hardness and get a plain-jane softenor to reduce the calcium carbonate "hardness" that the FP exchanger has been killed by.

Since hot water is where the "hardness" come out of solution and becomes "scale," you may want to simply do the hot water only! Softened cold water tastes like drek IMO. However, if the water is VERY hard, you may have little choice.

Testing is the only way to "size" the softenor. If the softenor is warranted, make sure to get one with a "usage/gallonage" recycle feature, not "every night at 2 a.m." recylcer type. They cost a tad more, but save a fortune in salt and labor involved in storing, dragging around and consumption actually required to re-charge the softenor "beads."

Let us know how you make out.

[Deleted User]

Chlorides and Stainless Steel Heat exchangers...BAD MIX

One (chlorides) will void the warranty on the other (SS HXer).

Read the manufacturers instructions/warranty statement.

Personally, I'd use a magnetic water conditioner.

(OK, I've got my arms sheltering my head, go ahead and beat me about the head and shoulders:-))

ME

D107

HO here--had my make-up water tested by Rhomar

for $15. Recommended I use a water softener for the hardness; for the chloride problem (separate measurement) they said to stay away from stainless steel (requires less than 20ppm chloride). Munchkin techs said that for boilers with stainless steel HXs, the chloride issue is not that crucial since it's a closed system, but for a stainless steel Superstor Ultra or even the coated model they have I'd have to replace the anode rod every two years. Needless to stay it's cast iron indirects for me, where under 100ppm chloride level should be OK.

David

T Towne

Guys

Thanks again.
Mark, the magnetic units are good for calcium only correct? The deposits wer chalky white/grey in color. I assume this is calcium and not magnisium but I will have the water tested. Magnetic units are inexpensive right $100 or so. If so I will be smiling.

T Towne

Mark

Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.deltawater.com.au/index.php?customernumber=573339278320186&pr=Delta_Products

hr

I agree with

Ken. You need to test the hardness and build the softner to that level. Water hardness can and does change depending on your source of water. Even city water systems draw from different sources like wells or lakes and the hardness changes.

A hardness test kit is fairly inexpensive and allows you to check your own, and friends sources from time to time.

But test for more than hardness. High iron for example will totally plug the softner resin bed, rendering it useless.

I'd stay away from the cheap softners. Buy one with a demand regeneration meter to waste the least amount of backwash water.

Also better models have several final rinse cycles as the salt is one source of Chlorides that attack stainless. You really shouldn't be able to tast the salt if it backwashed properly.

It's a good idea to have a pro set one up. They can adjust and change the brine orfice to use just the right amount of brine to do the job and no more.

I have really high iron on my well. So I go through an iron filter first, the softener on hot supply only, then carbon filters on the drinking water tap.

I'm not a fan of RO's. They strip too much from the water in my opinion, and waste a lot to do their job.

There is only one correct treatment for a particular symptom. Get a pro to help you get it right the first time.

hot rod

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

[Deleted User]

No, I have personal experience with this one...

http://www.ciao.co.uk/Magnetic_Limefighter__6557718

Used to be able to buy them here in the USA. Didn't do a deep search on them, but these ARE the ones I have used successfully.

If the scale is silica based, don't waste your money. They WILL not work on silica, only calcium.

ME

Dave_12

Electronic Water Softener

Electronic water softeners are available form Field Controls, Kinston, North Carolina. They call it the ClearWave Water Conditioner. They seem "too good to be true." If you cannot find one, call me at 800-821-3986.

T Towne

I visited this web site and here is an interesting study.

http://www.wqa.org/pdf/GovRelations/WQAMagneticsTaskForceReport.pdf

Dave Belisle

limed coil

In a renovation job we did a few years ago. I noticed the circulator to the indirect never shut off. We ended up replacing the coil . This is what it looked like after seven years of use.

Get the water tested and install the recommended system.

Dave in NH

BP&H

jim_57

If the only concern is

mineral buildup in the PHE, try a Scale STopper from Cuno AquaPure. It won't break the bank, only need to replace the cartridge once a year and is good for calcium and magnesium. This is great not only for a PHE but also for a tankless coil. It's plumbed into the cold water makeup so only treats the hot water.