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smoking zone valve
Weezbo
Member Posts: 6,232
for tonight if it is cool outside, open the lever to that zone and lock it open,...close the supply valve down to a dull trickle and run the system off the other zone valve and t stat ,until you have a chance to replace the head ....
one other thing you could try,...is turn the power off to the boiler ..and the control...turn the zone valve s down..wire it ,...then turn the power on to the boiler then the control and then the t stats..get someone to help turn the t stats up one at a time....no smoke you hear some whirring sound...all is good...no problem. no whirring sound....put your hand about 20 " away from the zone valve and wait a while like 3 mins ...if it does not get cool or cold then hot the zone valve is fried ....back to first idea....
one other thing you could try,...is turn the power off to the boiler ..and the control...turn the zone valve s down..wire it ,...then turn the power on to the boiler then the control and then the t stats..get someone to help turn the t stats up one at a time....no smoke you hear some whirring sound...all is good...no problem. no whirring sound....put your hand about 20 " away from the zone valve and wait a while like 3 mins ...if it does not get cool or cold then hot the zone valve is fried ....back to first idea....
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Comments
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Taco zone valve issue
I recently had to bleed the air out of my hot water baseboards, and set the 2 zone valves to the open position. When I was done, I returned them to auto, and fired the boiler. It worked great, but one ZV seemed to stay open. I had a constant call for that zone on the switching relay (Taco SR-503). I determined that the power head needed to be replaced because the lever would not move easily. When reconnecting the wiring, as soon as I connect the #1 wire, I get a small spark, and a puff of smoke will emanate from the powerhead. Is this normal? Or are there larger issues?
Randy0 -
When new.........
........they will heat up any residual oil from manufacturing. The spark is 24 VAC being applied to the power terminal (#1), if there is a current call for heat. Did the valve open? If it doesn't open, you may have created a dead short somewhere. If that is what happened, none of the valves will open since the transformer is the weak link and will go away.
Are the heads green or gold?There was an error rendering this rich post.
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hey.....:) Trade secret Norm
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Given that I work on telecom and data systems, my troubleshooting brain says: smoke=bad so I removed the wire immediately. I did not give the valve a chance to open. The valve is in a closed position now (wiring is disconnected) because the zone is cold. I will put it back together later and evaluate. Thanks for the info. FYI, they are the gold heads (570 series).0 -
Troubleshoot, trouble.....shoot.
OK, attached #1 wire, waited 2 mins, get a call on the relay (t-stat is off!). Let it run 1 min., disconnect #1 wire, wait 2 min, call light goes off. I know the 2 min. time is the time it takes for the wax inside the powerhead to heat and cool, which should prove that the valve body and powerhead are functioning, so I think the next step is to look at the wiring and see if I can find a short somewhere, no?0 -
yep
The wire to the t'stat is shorted or the t'stat is shorted. some how the the power is getting to #1. you are on the right track.........:)
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The load from the transformer is connected to one side of all the thermostats. the other side of each thermostat is connected to its corrosponding zone valve.
You may have load from the transformer going to the zone valve instead of the thermostat.
Just double check your wiring against the schematic.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
something else to consider; take terminal #1 wire off, before using the manual lever, and the valve may or may not close the end switch to fire the boiler. The smoke on initial start up is common.Joe Mattiello
N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
Taco Comfort Solutions0
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