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boiler and hot water maker question

Floyd
Floyd Member Posts: 429
in THE MAIN WALL
You could throw a Ultra 155 in there and still have it modulate down to 30K, a 105 will back down to 20k.... the WM Plus 40 tank will keep you in continuous hot water with either boiler.
AND you get 90+ eff. to boot!!!! Make sure it is pied correctly and the pumps are big enough... my guess is that you could get more out of the amtrol with a larger pump... those things take a biga** pump to get enough water through those restrictive coils.
Why spend money on a half fix when you can get something that will save you a bunch of money and do what you really want it to do for you???

Floyd

Comments

  • chuck_6
    chuck_6 Member Posts: 107
    boiler and hot water maker question

    We have a 1989 Utica boiler (50,000BTU input, 36,500BTU output) that heats a poorly insulated 300 sq ft sunroom and a 41-gallon 1992 Amtrol hot water maker.

    Looking to replace both. Major problem is hot water, cannot take back-to-back 10 minute showers - run out of hot water. Need something bigger, but don't want to oversize so it cycles too much for the sunroom. I know I need to insulate the sunroom and get smaller windows.

    Any thoughts on BTU size boiler and models. Is 40-gallon hot water maker enough?
  • Big Ed_3
    Big Ed_3 Member Posts: 170
    Low BTU Out put

    The boiler is too small for producing hot water for your needs. You can look into lowering your shower flow rate. Sister in a second storage tank. Look into a direct fired hot water heater just for your heating needs.
  • jp_2
    jp_2 Member Posts: 1,935
    electric water heater.

    put a 20 or 30 gallon electric in series with the indirect, after it. should give you the easiest solution that will fits your needs.
  • Larry (from OSHA)
    Larry (from OSHA) Member Posts: 727
    chuck

    you did not say what you have the hot water maker temp set to. what I have done in my home and been sucessful with is raising the set point of the water heater to about 140 or so and using a tempering valve to restrict the temp that you see at the faucets to no more than 120. This will increase your effective capacity and may solve your problem for now. Also, not costly and increases your safety from scalding and legionella. Even if you replace the tank now, it would be a good idea to install a tempering valve.

    Larry
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