Main vent

Steamhead (in transit)

might not be big enough. Measure the length and diameter of your steam mains- we can tell you if you need to upgrade your main vents.

<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=367&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>

Len_9

Main vent

I have a hoffman #75 main vent line on my one pipe steam system. i have all the pipes in the basement insulated. I have Maid-O-mist vents on my room rad's. my house is a colonial and have been trying to balance the system. thermistat is in dining room which is on the north side of the house It also is my largest rad. my bed room is above the dining room. i am trying to get those hot enough before thermistat is satisfied. Any suggestion? thanks.

Bernard Smith

Are your dining room and bedroom rads on the same riser? If so you could install a Gorton 1 main vent at the top of the riser before the angle valve. I did this with mine and the difference is dramatic. This vent clears all the air out of the riser super fast and gets the steam to where it is supposed to be; the rads. Also check the size of the vents on these rads. They may be venting too slowly resulting in a slow heat up time.

Len_8

Main vent

No the dining room is on one riser and the bedroom is on another. i will try a bigger size vent . Had a #6 on the one in the bedroom ,will try a C. Thanks for the response.

Len_8

Main vent

I measured my main line and came up with 48' and the diameter is 2 1/2 inches. Thanks for the response.

Steamhead (in transit)

Too small

You'd need about 6 of those #75 vents to do the job right. I'd vent that main with two Gorton #2 vents, which will get the steam to the end in a minute or two at roughly 2 ounces pressure.

If you can't find Gortons in your area, call Ken Kunz at Gorton- 908-276-1323. He will see that you get them.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

jeff_70

I have a Gordon #1 at the end of the return line. Its about 1 foot before the loop at the boiler. Is it useful here? Shouldn't it be at the end of the main feeder line? It was installed when a new boiler was put in last year, and I don't think any main vent existed before this.
Thanks

Jeff

Steamhead (in transit)

How long

is the steam main? What pipe size? How long is the dry return, and what size is it?

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

jeff_70

33 feet of main. Starts 3 inch, down to 2 1/2 inch after 6 feet. Dry return same 33 feet. Its 1 1/2 inch. This is for a one pipe system. 8 Radiators total. Thanks

Jeff

Len_8

Main vent

Thanks steamhead for geting back to me. I forgot to mention also that at the beginning f the main the pipe diameter looks tp be 3" and runs for about 8' then drops to 2 1/2. also at the end of the main ,before the loop there is a gortons equalizing vent D. its treaded right into the main with a 1/8" hole . is this helping any ? And if it is their a chance i can go with one #2 Gortons. Also for the size of the hoffman why does take so many to do the job of just 2 Gortons #2. thanks again hope to here from u. Len

Steamhead (in transit)

That D vent

is about the same capacity as the Hoffman #75. It's still way too small. Go with 2 Gorton #2s. You might have to drill and tap the main, but they're worth it.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Steamhead (in transit)

Use

a Gorton #2.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

jeff_70

Thanks for the input, steamhead. I learn a lot about understanding this system from reading the board. My main question, however, is about the position of this vent. SHould I try to place one at the end of the main (before the turn back) instead of its present position 1 foot before the hanford loop at the end of the dry return. Last stupid question-what is the best way to insulate the manifold and pipes when turning? I have those fiberglass tubes with white paper on the outside for the long stretches, but what is good on the turns.

THanks

Jeff

Steamhead (in transit)

It would work best

at the "turn-back" point, but you could move it there later if it's real cold now and you don't want the heat off for a long time. The system will still work better.

Percentage-wise, pipe fittings don't have nearly the amount of surface area as the pipes themselves. So one could get away with leaving them bare. If you want to insulate them, they make plastic shells under which you wrap fiberglass strips.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Len_8

main vent

Thanks steamhead for the info. One other question , the hoffman right now sits on a riser were we took out a rad because of new construction. The riser is about 7" off the main at a 45 deg angle. Then there is a 45 deg coupling then the # 75 is thread into the coupling. Can i remoce the 45 coupling ,and put a 90 deg coupling and run a piece of straight pipe with two tee's and mount the gortons on just that single opening out of the main , or will this reduce the job that both gortons will do.And should i remove the gortons D after installing the gorton's #2. Well that was 2 questions. Thanks again for all your advice ,its been very helpful. Len