Steam Boiler wont turn on!

Chris_35

I have checked all the switches and everything seems to be ok.
There is power going to the boiler etc.

I am wondering if it is one of the low water cutoffs thats causing this.
My boiler has a McDonnell cut-off 67 which seems to be ok and is clear of any crud.
It also has an old McDonnell 47-2 Feeder/Cut-off.
Last year the feeder stopped working properly and would sometimes flood the boiler so after that I shut the water supply off completely and if the water level got a little low I would 'manually' fill it by turning the water on and sticking a screwdriver on the valve stem of the 47-2 and let water in that way, then turn off the water supply.
Could the 47-2 be so gummed up with crud that the float is stuck in the 'down' position making it think that the water level is too low in the boiler and thereby preventing it from firing on ?
Like I said, I called Slant Fin to try to find someone in my area that knows these systems but so far I have gotten nowhere. The people that installed it made a huge mess of the piping and never advised me about any sort of maintenance whatsoever, including blowing down the cutoffs. Anything I learned about these systems came from The Lost Art of Steam Heating which states that the 47-2 and the 67 must have the crud blown out of it at least once a week.
So I wouldn't be surprised if that 47-2 is jam packed with crap.

Chris_35

Steam Boiler will not fire up!

I had a Slant Fin Steam Boiler installed in my house 3 years ago.
My system is a one pipe originally installed almost a hundred years ago so the pipes and rads are old.

Last year I posted photos on this wall of the near boiler piping and you guys all had a good laugh as it was piped completely wrong. I have since had the piping corrected. I stood over the guys doing it with the manual and told how I wanted it done.
Anyway, my point is that I have zero faith in anyone in my area when it comes to steam systems. No one knows much about them around here.
So now my boiler won't fire up and I am stuck trying to figure it out for myself. I am hoping one of you experts will be able to help like last time.
- the pilot light is on and the thermocouple looks ok.
- there is power going to the boiler
- I just replaced the thermostat (I guess the problem wasn't the thermostat!)
- I reset the sensor on the exhaust hood.

Could it be that the gas valve is not opening? If so, is that a repair I could do myself?

Also, I blow off the low water cutoff on a regular basis but there is a valve (the same size as a garden hose tap) below the piping which gets clogged very quickly preventing me from opening it to clean out sediment. If sediment backed up into the boiler from this would that stop the boiler from working?
To clean it I have to unscrew the piping and drain the entire boiler.

Any help would be appreciated.

Big Ed

Where is the break

You need to find the break in service.Use a voltage meter across the controls is series of low voltage circurt...Try across transformer first.Should be 24v,no in line voltage side.Yes move to next control....lwco,presuretrol,spill switches,end switches.or thermostat.24v reading across a control is the break.....24v across tt on gas valve controls ok,something not right at valve end..... here is a start come back with findings

Darin(in Michigan)

Pretty Vague

Besides steam what else do you know about your system?
Is it millivolt or 24 volt? does it have standing pilot or spark ignition? Component manufaturers and numbers are good to know. Do you understand that a voltmeter measures a potential difference and how to interpret an open switch. I'm not trying to be an A@@ but Friday is upon us and your staring down an overtime charge.

Chris_35

Heres more details

Its a Slant Fin Model # GXH-170PZD,
24 volt,
Standing pilot,

I have called Slant fin who in turn had a distributer call me who in turn was going to get a qualified steam guy in my area to call me. But that was now 2 days ago and I haven't heard anything. But I'm not surprised, its always been very difficult finding someone that will touch steam.

I'm not sure how to interpret an open switch with a voltmeter but it looks like I better learn soon.

JohnNY

Where are you?

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Chris_35

location

I am in Omemee, Ontario.
Its about 1.5 hours north east of Toronto.
Just so you know, I can get by in this milder weather without the boiler because (thankfully) I put in a wood stove this year and I also have 2 gas fireplaces.
But the house is much nicer with the boiler going as well!
But when the temps go down to -25 -30 c I will need the boiler.

thfurnitureguy_4

Chris, use the ohmes setting on your meter. touch the test leads together and the meter should read 0 (closed switch) with the leads apart, the reading should be infinite. I believe you are looking for an open switch on a safety control. I would hope any burner guy with gas experiance could find the bad control. Be safe and best of luck.

Darin(in Michigan)

Oh, Right on eh!;)

Ok hoser, put down the two four and crack a chilly one eh. Go with the simple stuff first. Is the pilot lit? Do you have a vent damper on the stack leaving the boiler? Are you natural draft or does the boiler have aventer motor to pull the flame through the heat exchanger and out the other side(ie a small fan at the back of the boiler that runs when the burner is fired up?)
If I'm not mistaken, you have a natural draft appliance with a damper motor and a spill switch on the base of the mushroom type thing on the big galvanized pipe that leaves the boiler on the way to the chimney correct? If you've had any wind in the last little while, a down draft can pop the manual reset spill switch and cause a no heat. DO NOT jumper this switch if it is the problem!!!! To reset it press the center and it should click if it is tripped. Also, the damper should be in the vertical position(flat side is showing on side opposite the motor. How we doing so far?

Chris_35

damper

Believe it or not but I already checked that switch and it was not tripped so the dampers not the problem.
The pilot is lit.
Its natural draft.
Good news is my beer is cold, bad news is so is the wife.

Mitch_6

You stated you checked everything

yet you are questioning but not knowing the condition of the LWC. From what I have been reading you have not thoroughly checked the circuits since the LWC is one of the links in the chain.

We have a Plumbing Heating Cooling association, see if you have a similar one that could give a referral to your area.
If you cannot find a gas teck you may try an oil company since allot of the operating controls (pressure switch and LWC) on your boiler are the same as oil but just at a lower voltage. A good oil teck should be able to shake out the series of controls, the only places he / she may be lite on wold be the gas valve or vent damper.

At a minimum he / she can rule out the simple and stupid. If it is a gas valve issue you will want someone who knows what he / she is doing to repair it.

In short don't guess, know!!.

Mitch S.

Chris_35

I just made a call to get someone out here.
I hope he/she knows thier stuff!

Anyway, I really appreciate the responses and help that I got from you guys. I will let you know what the problem was.

Chris_35

I got steam

I was supposed to have someone come out tomorrow but I thought I would double check all the wiring tonight.

I discovered that I had power going into the McDonnell 67, but the wire coming out did not have any power and that wire went to the pressuretrol and the other LWC/feeder.
I figured that the 67 was screwed up somehow, possibly jammed with crud.
So I gave it a couple of taps with my knuckles and the boiler came on!

I have been blowing the water out of it at least once a week, should I do it a couple of times a day for awhile to get it good and clean?
Could there be something else wrong with it?
Maybe I should replace it?
Has anyone else dealt with the 67 not working?

Mitch_6

#67

the #67 gas or oil works the same. there is a float inside that occasionally needs to be cleaned. I always show my home owners how to check the LWC with the boiler running so when they drain it down they can see that it shuts the burner off. Dirt on the float or in the chamber can cause the LWC to jam in ether position, it could fail with the switch closed and therefore not shut the boiler down when needed.

Best to have a pro clean it, check it and show you how to make sure it works properly.

Mitch S.

Chris_35

#67

Ok Thanks Mitch.
Whenever I blow water out of it I do it with the boiler running so I can see that it shuts it off.
I'll question the guy that was going to come tomorrow to see if he has ever cleaned a 67 and if he has I'll get it done, if not then the search will be on for someone who has!
Thanks very much for your help.
Chris