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Could condensate really be this dirty?
Mark Hunt
Member Posts: 4,908
the "pressure starts to build"....build to what?
Are you using a vaporstat or the pressure-trol that came with the boiler?
I watched a system build to 5 psi once with the p-trol cut-in set at .5 and the differential on 1. The pig-tail was not blocked and neither was the p-trol. I put a vaporstat on and the boiler ran like a champ.
As for the dirty return water, that will never stop getting dirty. Steam systems decay from inside out and every time the system makes steam, a small amount of moisture remains in the pipe. This makes surface rust on the inside of the pipes and the steam/condensate wash it back to the return. Almost like sweeping a dirt floor trying to keep it clear.
Mark H
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=238&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
Are you using a vaporstat or the pressure-trol that came with the boiler?
I watched a system build to 5 psi once with the p-trol cut-in set at .5 and the differential on 1. The pig-tail was not blocked and neither was the p-trol. I put a vaporstat on and the boiler ran like a champ.
As for the dirty return water, that will never stop getting dirty. Steam systems decay from inside out and every time the system makes steam, a small amount of moisture remains in the pipe. This makes surface rust on the inside of the pipes and the steam/condensate wash it back to the return. Almost like sweeping a dirt floor trying to keep it clear.
Mark H
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=238&Step=30">To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"</A>
0
Comments
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New boiler - old system
OK sounds pretty normal so far. But boy do I have surging problems. Heres the deal.
Hooked up an new Burnham IN-6 to an old one pipe system. Ran the system with chemical for a couple of days after the initial boil out. The customer called and reported the boiler not functioning and banging pipes. Cold skimmed the boiler, insulated all near boiler piping, replaced air vents throughout the house and fired her up.
Banging went away and most of the surging did too. However there is still some surging (more than +/- .3/4" in the glass)but at least no more foaming. There are water drops in the sight glass above the water line (probably oil in the water). Now here's whats not making me happy.
The boiler is giving heat and steam is making its way to the top floor (3rd floor)with less than 1 psig. That is a good thing. But after about 1 hour the pressure starts to build and thereby pushes the water level in the glass down to the minimum water line. I ran the boiler for 2 hours and stayed to watch it. The return water came back the same color as before I had skimmed the boiler that day. I don't like this...
I'm looking for feedback. Thanks in advance...0 -
Wow I forgot that part?
LOL. You got me...
OK the pressure builds to 2 psi. The p-trol cut out is set at 1 psi and the diff. at .5 (Honeywell L404) so the diff. is subtractive. The p-trol cuts out at 2 psi although it is set to 1 psi.
Lets remember tho...
At the bottom end of the scale on this particular control there is a 20% discrepancy shall we say. So that coupled with the fact that my OEM Burnham gauge is not that precise could mean we are at least in the ballpark without costing the customer another $300 for a vaporstat he really doesn't want. I am ok with the control situation. I am not happy with the water level though.
I am somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to interesting creatures like a steam system....0 -
Perfection
is not a bad thing at all. I do have a couple of questions though. What chemical treatment did you leave in the boiler for two days and is it all completely out now? Most chemicals are OK for cleaning the boiler on a short term basis but can overdo things on a long term basis. Depending on what it was it can also do pretty good job of cleaning the system piping as well. If this is the case it may take a while to get all of what it loosened up in the system back to the return side.
We would advise not leaving chemicals in the boiler for these reasons and to simply be sure that you have clean water with no oil film on top. Did you install an isolation valve on the return to the Hartford Loop connection along with a drain to be able to isolate the wet return and to flush out what comes back from the system before it gets into the boiler again? It would also help if you could post a picture or two of the near boiler piping. Hope this helps.
Glenn Stanton
Manager of Training
Burnham Hydronics
U.S. Boiler Co., Inc.0 -
Perfection
is not a bad thing at all. I do have a couple of questions though. What chemical treatment did you leave in the boiler for two days and is it all completely out now? Most chemicals are OK for cleaning the boiler on a short term basis but can overdo things on a long term basis. Depending on what it was it can also do pretty good job of cleaning the system piping as well. If this is the case it may take a while to get all of what it loosened up in the system back to the return side. Also, if the pressuretrol is of the mercury type, is the pigtail under it oriented perpendicular to the face of the control. If it is a mercury type and the pigtail orientation is parallel to the face then it could be expanding and tipping possibly keeping the switch active due to unlevelness.
We would advise not leaving chemicals in the boiler for these reasons and to simply be sure that you have clean water with no oil film on top. Did you install an isolation valve on the return to the Hartford Loop connection along with a drain to be able to isolate the wet return and to flush out what comes back from the system before it gets into the boiler again? It would also help if you could post a picture or two of the near boiler piping. Hope this helps.
Glenn Stanton
Manager of Training
Burnham Hydronics
U.S. Boiler Co., Inc.0
This discussion has been closed.
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