rushing water heard through radiators

anthony_19

The water is from a heavy rain lately.

I donot have a cold #12 guage by the well pump/tank
but i do have a guage on the boiler.

should i start by replacing the pressure switch and trying to get 12# pressure?

anthony_19

water rushing through pipes

i have an oil fueled boiler that heats hot water for my house floor radiators..

for about a week now, when the heat kicks on we hear a "rush" of water through the pipes. we have only owned this house for two other winters... and it seemed like it was always cold... it seems hotter now, but the sound is not normal.

i do think the water is supplied by my cistern water pump... as opposed to my well water pump. the pumps motor went this summer... just basically doesn't shut off by itself.

could this rushing water sound be because there is not enough water in the lines?? any other ideas?? any ideas would be appreciated... thanks.

Timco

Your pressure should be 12# cold, and you should give the system a good purge / bleeding to get the air out...and you will be hotter than ever. Post a picture of your boiler / near boiler piping and myself or someone will be able to walk you through purging the system, then bleeding it.

Tim

anthony_19

could it be happening because the pump motor is shut off...

should i change the pressure switch which i think doesnt work.. since i shut it off because it was running continually... before that it would make a loud clunk (pressure motor) before turning off.

well, anyway here are some pics of my system... i had never thought about this before... i thought it ran off of my drinking water well... not my cistern

Timco

It seems you have alot of water on the floor? Is your relief valve leaking? If your pressure switch is failed and your system is leaking...there goes your pressure. You must have 12# coldto run correctly and then purge / bleed. Fix the press switch and fill to 12# cold. You should be able to fill it and turn off the gate valve in front of your pressure reducing valve and amintain pressure.

Tim

Timco

Yes...sorry to be vauge. The boiler gauge should read 12 psi with the boiler cold when properly filled. The pressure reducing valve (green Taco valve on the water fill) will keep the system at 12 psi if properly set. Fix the switch, nd let it fill until the boiler gauge says 12, and close the fill valve. The switch will let domestic pressure build in the pipes, and the PRV will cut it down to 12 for the boiler. With no back flow preventer, you should shut the fill valve (valve just prior to PRV).

Tim

John@Reliable_14

Timco?

Why 12 psi? What about the x-tank? What about a LWCO if he shuts off the feed? And last how about the wiring?
Some things are best left to a pro.

Timco

Sooo..

The guy hears water in the system, and says the feed is dead. No mention of relief valve tripping or high pressure. I think my advise is a good place to start. Why 12 psi?? What do you set your systems to, may I ask? LWCO is a nice thing to have, but I am sure many here would agree that what...75-85% of older systems do not have this? Not code here, and his system is still running...not dead. How would the wiring create rushing water noise in his system? If he says he will fix the press switch, then he must know how or maybe he will hire someone? Yes, a pro should ideally always be involved, but the HO should be able to fill, bleed / purge and check pressure. He is not changing his burner assy or oil feed. Maybe you could have added your advise without being personal?

Tim

anthony_19

hey

Well... I thought about it...

and I think I am going to call in a pro. he may be able to tell me if it is my pressure switch... or pump motor... purge my system and restore the settings on the boiler to 12

but timco, thank you so much... at least now i know what i am talking about and wont get ripped off... thanks again.

Timco

Glad to hear that. You should know the basics of your system, and should learn from what the pro does to your system. 12# is a generic setting for a single family residence based on system heigth and the need to move water (and air) through the system. Have a complete checkup done...including but not limited to: a combustion chamber inspection / cleaning, a combustion analysis, vent / draft check, fuel pressure check, check the expansion tank, set the pressure reducing valve, and bleed / purge the system of air. You will be in good shape for the season! A yearly check of your system is always a good idea. Stay warm and enjoy the radiant heat!

Tim

Unknown

Tim,,,,,,,,,

That other post has got-to-hurt, I know you were just trying to "feel-out" his prob, not easily done this way, besides that`s what we`re "all-here" for! We can all learn things! Great Try!!

Timco

Well...the name of this site is Heating Help. As I read his posts, one would assume it is called Heating Blow Off, as each post he writes has the same 'find a pro' response. I do try, as others helped me. If he had flames jumping out, that would be different. Rushing water? Let's try & help. I do find it interesting that 'Reliable' has not explained his response. I do not think he explaines the laws of static pressure to every customer who's system he fills....Thanks for the kind words, and we will try and help someone else today!

Tim

Reed

What kind of well pump

do you have? A submersable pump (down in well) or a jet pump (in the house or out building). If it is a jet pump and it is not turning off, sometimes the line from the pressure switch to whatever the port is that the other end of that line goes to can get clogged and pressure switch can not read press correctly so pump will run continuously. If submersable pump the nipple to the pressure switch can also be clogged and have the same result.

anthony_19

> do you have? A submersable pump (down in well) or

> a jet pump (in the house or out building). If it

> is a jet pump and it is not turning off,

> sometimes the line from the pressure switch to

> whatever the port is that the other end of that

> line goes to can get clogged and pressure switch

> can not read press correctly so pump will run

> continuously. If submersable pump the nipple to

> the pressure switch can also be clogged and have

> the same result.



hey tim...

thanks for all the advice, when the maint. man came out he basically figured out that the well pump is broken. he gave me a run down of the system. *i know what a relief valve is now....

he showed me how to fill it manually, until i can either replace the pump (only used for the boiler and outside hose)... or run another copper pipe from my other well pump (rest of the house) .. i've had to fill it once. but i am going to call and ask about the draft test and all that stuff in the previous post. thaks