Added zone and pumping away

Ted_9

I dont see the air eliminator. If there isnt, then put it on the supply.


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Will Merryman

Added zone and pumping away

Hi, I inquired on this forum a while back as to adding a zone to my boiler. I recvd. some good advice and was also cautioned to pump away.The boiler came from factory pumping to. I added a manifold with two circs. One is an IFC the other uses the original flo check.I am attaching some pics for critiques.
After bleeding the best I can, I am getting some loud gurgling on the holding temp from the expansion tank. It's not evident when the tstat calls for heat and the circ. comes on.
Also there is no air elimination device other than my bleeders on the baseboards. I think there should be something somewhere but am at a loss as to what and where.
Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

Weezbo

are you stuck on the expansion tank you currently have?

it flys in a slightly different formation than a captive air expansion tank...

[Deleted User]

Should put that cover on that electric service panel in the background. Could be very bad if someone stuck finger in there!!!

Will Merryman

expansion tank

Hi Weezbo , I do have a question on the expansion tank. I was wondering if there is a procedure to empty and refill to get the correct air space in it. I shut valve off to tank prior to draining the boiler and didn't open it until boiler was filled and bled.
I didn't have the gurgling when the circ. was pumping to as opposed to away as it is set up now.I am attaching a pic of tank although you know exactly what I have.
I will pick up an air eliminator and put it in the supply side. Should it go after circ. or prior to it in the manifold. To my way of thinking it should be after.
Also my electric panel will be covered as I am multitasking my projects and I am the only one who goes into the basement.Thanks all for your input.

Will

Brad White_144

Nice engineering drawings, Will

Are those (house pics 2006 015.jpg) from when it was built? Looks like Navy/ACE-grade drawings for military housing. Cool.

Not to step in on anyone's toes and nothing wrong with the old tanks as they are, but new diaphragm tanks can save some headaches and can be charged via a Schraeder valve. I agree 100% with Weezbo.

The air separator can go before or after either type of tank mindful that it want to be where the water is hottest and releases most air naturally. The air separator is commonly used as a connection point for expansion tanks (lines connecting to expansion tanks). And as you know, the circulator goes just downstream of that point.

Will Merryman

engineering drawing

Hi Brad,I have a folder with pics of all my home improvements over the last 5 years. I didn't rename that drawing.When I bought this place I called Burnham and requested a manual for the boiler. Every tech I have had out to clean an tune it has not even wanted to look it over.Although it has been informative to me.

Main house was built in 90,(1890) addition in 1964. Not sure of age of boiler probably 70's.Tech last year said boiler is a good unit.I think it is 82%.


I am currently putting in underfloor in bedroom. All new 2v10's with advantec subfloor.Going with ultra fins and 2" foam board underneath.Spray foam in walls and foam board in ceiling.


I get over to HD and check out the modern tanks and look at pics on this site to see about hook up. I enjoy reading the posts here. I learn a lot and if I was younger I would seriously consider going into this line of work.

Will

Uni R_2

Will...

For a hundred bucks or so, you could buy a modern expansion tank, including the air scoop. The copper might cost another $100 too... ;-)

Anyway, for a very small sum you can really do a lot to alleviate your frustration. I used to have a tank like that. About twice a year, enough air would go into solution at the mouth of that crappy old tank to make me need to do a whole house purging (monoflo circuit) at at least an upstairs purging. One day I decided to try a modern tank. The tank was in a bad position before. It was near the top of the riser where it comes out of the boiler's supply. The circ is pumping into the boiler and then the PONC. Still... I used the 3/4" tee there to hand the tank and then where the water has a downturned elbow, I replaced it with a tee and went up about a foot and put an auto air valve. The system doesn't get air bound anymore from air leaving the tank and rising through system looking for heat to starve out.

I have a nice Spirovent in a box that I'll install once I get a hot rod system. I ordered it when I bought the tank because they were out of 1.25 - figured I'd need to add it somewhere just upstream of the circ on the return and cap the 0.75 tee where the tank is now and then move it hang off the Spirovent. In I forget how many years, there hasn't been a need.

That small simple change has more than payed for itself in keeping air out of the heating branches. It simply makes for a better working and more professional job if you use a pre-charged tank.

Will Merryman

Uni R

I guess that is what I will do. I have been all over bleeding and rebleeding everything including boiler. I even dropped a few gals. out of tank and refilled it.


Funny thing is when tstat calls for heat and circ. comes on it doesn't do the gurgle thing. Lucky its not that cold out yet.<br.

I got a bunch of copper in the barn so the new pries won't bite me at all.Thanks for your input.

Will

Steamhead (in transit)

Will, you have a Burnham V-1 series boiler

which has its own built-in air separator. If the line to the tank is tied in right next to the boiler's hot-water outlet, it's piped correctly.

A B&G Airtrol fitting installed where the line goes into the tank will keep the air from migrating into the system.

Ask me how I know this stuff works ;-)

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