New GB142 install Ted G

tom_49

I didnt think it mattered which way the spirovent is facing, but I could be wrong.

Ted, is that the co det. mounted above it. The code de jour in mass.( so I was told by the local inspector )is no closer than 5ft. and on a different circuit than the heater.

Nice install.

Tom

Ted_9

Looking for constructive criticism here.

This is our first running GB in a closet. I am not particularly thrilled with the results. I'm looking for some ways to make are installs better in these situations. Any products or piping arrangements etc.



First, the expansion tank is behind the wall. Second, the condensate is going to the crawl space and is neutralized.

Application: Buderus Condensing boiler with the AM10, out door reset control. Three loops Quick Trak using a Taco I Series 3 way with out door reset. I got the radiant running today. We also have one zone Runtal UF2's not in yet. The supply and return Fostapex lines go under the floor to pick up the Runtals.

Looking for constructive criticism here.

BTW, I'm not happy with the electrician here. I told him to mount the SR501's on the top right wall. And the he uses this big liquid tight for the connections.

I'll start;

1) I don't like the relief. Two part idea here. From now on I will use either black pipe or at least a black nip and union coming right out of the relief. That way, and one can replace it in the future with out cutting and soldering a new drip.

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lund

Say Ted,

Tight install. Buderus needs a new design for GB 142 manifold. It's way big. The cover helps cover up the slop. Great machine besides that.

Thanks for posting,

Lund

Wayco Wayne_2

Sorry

no consructive criticism here. I'm amazed you got it all in. How did you get the solder joints up against the wall? Looks OK to me. WW

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Mark Hunt

All I can think of


is one of Robert Bean's pump panels. They seem to be able to squeeze 50 lbs. of stuff in a nice 5 lb. box.

As the old saying goes,"When you're given lemons....make lemonade".

Mark H

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Singh_2

Ted

Other than wiring your own stuff on the boiler , I say nice job.

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RoosterBoy._4

a little overkill $$$ using sealtight for the electrical but nothing wrong with overkill. you did a nice job ted

thanks
Jason

Unknown

I think the liquid tight looks sexy, but I agree its too big, perhaps 1/2 instead of 3/4?

Also for reliefs I like to use a 7/8 X 3/4 compression X male adaptor. That way when you need to change the relief the piping comes off nice and easy.

Great looking install!

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Ted_9

Thanks for the compliments, but I didnt do much of the install. My guys did it. I just pointed alot. They are getting better, but I'm looking for ways to keep our jobs looking consistent. Ready made manifolds, packaged pump maybe a propress soon etc.

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Joe@buderus_2

Tight squeeze

Would hate to have two guys working together in that tight space! Hope they are friends! Nice job. Thanks for the support. NOTE: The manifolds we send are made here in the U.S. - We have talked with the supplier and been assured that the quality should improve. We are also improving our packaging to help eliminate "shipping" damage. Don't want to start a war here - but they are made here in U.S.

Ted, thanks for your input and pictures on the last couple of manifolds you received. It was very useful in our last meeting regarding the manifolds.

Josh_10

Okay I guess I will have to be the first to offer constructive criticism. I can visually see one issue. And this is minor, but the air separator vent should be pointed in the direction of flow.

Ted_9

no prob, I do what I can to help hydronics.

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Cosmo_3

Liquid tite

I had an inspector ask for liquid-tite once because of the boiler being above the wiring (wall hung boiler). Of course, to be consistent he should have asked for rainproof enclosures for the controls!!!!

Looks like a nice job Ted. Didn't know you had help, they do a nice job, this didn't look like the easiest job to work on.

The sugg for a compression X male fitting for the relief is a good one, looks neater than using a blk union, and nipple, probably cost wise pretty even.

When doing a job with less than 3 zones, I sometimes just use RIB relays. Then all the high voltage wiring is in one box.



Good Work!


Cosmo

GW

relays

Cosmo, I'm familiar with RIBs, but I guess not as much as you are... are you saying these can be used for circ controls just like those SR501s?? I'm not sure how the end switch would work, did I miss something here?

That's my only comment- why on/off switching? Our jobs we have the electrician install a switch that says "winter" and "summer". I wish the Buderus control would shut the system (heat that is) when it reaches WWSD, but it doesn’t, hence the "switch" that says winter on it.

Our jobs have been installs with Euro rads and TRV heads. So we want the heat pumping non-stop when the weather drops below WWSD.

You didn't share what kind of system you were sending the heat out to; I would guess you have a BB system and a radiant system?

Our big goal in life in constant circulation with no option for T87 stats or any other on/off stat to kill the flow.

That's also why I wish someday Buderus would set up the GB with a BFU set up like the 2107 has. One could install a Tekmar for ultimate results (not needed if you're doing TRVs on Euro rads).

Gary Wilson


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Cosmo_3

RIB

I use the RIBU2C, it has 2 relays in one unit. Tie together both relay's 24v coil inputs from the T-stat, use one set of contacts for the pump, the other for the end switch.

These little relays are the shiz-ning....whatever that means. I keep a bunch in my truck, they don't take up much room, are very reliable (never had a bad one yet), and I like that fact that they are enclosed. These are very useful, as they take many different voltages, check em out. Most supply houses only carry the standard RIBU1C. I special order mine by the case from Johnstone Supply.

Cosmo

Ted_9

spiro agnew vent

I agree with you. I like it to face the direction of flow. I have never seen instructions with a spirovent, so I don't know if it matters.

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Cosmo_3

it looks better is all I guess

I too have always just faced them in the direction of flow, but I really wonder if it matters. I checked the instruction and it does say to face a certain way, but I honestly don't know why it would matter, maybe the float could be affected differently when flow is in the other direction?

I wouldn't lose sleep over it.


Cosmo

Ted_9

CO

Last I knew, co detectors were to be in the same circuit as the boiler. as far as 5' away; I don't know but they are building a door to close the unit in.




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GW

cost?

what's a basic price for this model, I might need 14 tomorrow morning

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Ted_9

"You didn't share what kind of system you were sending the heat out to; I would guess you have a BB system and a radiant system?"

Hi Gary, I mentioned it in my first post. But I'll post it again, 3 loops of quick trak and one zone of Runtal UF2(steel baseboard.

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Cosmo_3

list for now

List price is 51 bucks at Johnstone supply. I don't remember what I paid, bought a box last year.

I can check and get back to you via email.

Part #RIBU2C Manufacturer- Functional Devices Inc.


Cosmo

Ted_9

control

Hey Cosmo, what controls are these? Can you post some lit on them?

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Cosmo_3

Sure

Copy and paste this link

http://www.functionaldevices.com/pdf/RIBU2C.pdf

This one has a switch rating of 10amps, you can get higher but for me this is enough since it is usually only operating one pump.



Cosmo

Ted_9

Spirotherm web site

Just found this PDF.

"The flow may be directed to either side of the unit. There is no directional arrow. Either connection may be used for inlet or outlet."

http://www.spirotherm.com/docs/installation/JrIOM-A.pdf

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GW

I do it

just the way you did it; I like that look better. To each their own I guess.

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Cosmo_3

edit

> Just found this PDF.

>

> "The flow may be

> directed to either side of the unit. There is no

> directional arrow. Either connection may be used

> for inlet or

> outlet."

>

> http://www.spirotherm.com/docs/install

> ation/JrIOM-A.pdf

>

> _A

> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

> 373&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

> Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

> "Find A Professional"_/A_



Cosmo

Cosmo_3

edit

I should have said that the pictures in the instructions consistently shows the air outlet pointing in the direction of flow.

Thanks Ted for the clarification. I didn't really think it mattered, now we know!


Cosmo