goldline differential controller

Ericjeeper

I ordered a Wilkins 75 psi PRV today.

Ericjeeper

How do I set it?

On my solar panels.. I had trouble today. I went out and they were not running.. sun was shining bright.I turned the hi limit up and the pump kicked on.. But when the glycol got to my T&P it opened and dumped. the system was at 30 psi.so that means it was over 180 degrees. My storage tank was at 131 degrees. Wheer should the high limit be set? I had the dif set at 12. I am not sure if I have a defective sensor or what. It has been working ok til today. regular old goldline differential controller. Thanks in advance

[Deleted User]

High limit setting...

is dependent on the storage tanks ability to withstand heat. Typically somewhere around 180 degrees F. Why do you have a T and P relief valve on your solar loop. Should only be a PRV. And trust me, if you started the loop under stagnation conditons with peak solar gain, you were instantly seeing discharge temperaturees in the area of 350 degrees F. Trust me, I know...

Goldline controls are extremely suceptible to RFI and EMI and it CAN scramble their little brains, requiring a cold boot to reset them. Make sure your not running any sensor wires parallel to any high voltage wires, and it is a good idea to use shielded thermostat wire and ground the shields.

Ericjeeper

what brand or model PRV do I need?

My sensor wire is shielded cable yes. and no High voltage near any of it.
I did just add two of the outdoor temp stats that are wireless transmitters into a main station in the house. I will remove those.
I will change out the T&P and get a PRV in there immediately. Tomorrow morning before I leave the house I will turn the pump on manually to make sure I do not dump the pressure again.(won't let it stagnate)Mark, thanks for your input . Eric Enk

hr

An Ohm meterwill test the sensors. the last page of the install

> My sensor wire is shielded cable yes. and no High

> voltage near any of it. I did just add two of

> the outdoor temp stats that are wireless

> transmitters into a main station in the house. I

> will remove those. I will change out the T&P

> and get a PRV in there immediately. Tomorrow

> morning before I leave the house I will turn the

> pump on manually to make sure I do not dump the

> pressure again.(won't let it stagnate)Mark,

> thanks for your input . Eric Enk





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hr

An Ohm meterwill test the sensors. the last page of the install

> My sensor wire is shielded cable yes. and no High

> voltage near any of it. I did just add two of

> the outdoor temp stats that are wireless

> transmitters into a main station in the house. I

> will remove those. I will change out the T&P

> and get a PRV in there immediately. Tomorrow

> morning before I leave the house I will turn the

> pump on manually to make sure I do not dump the

> pressure again.(won't let it stagnate)Mark,

> thanks for your input . Eric Enk





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hr

An Ohm meter will test the sensors.

the instruction sheet has the readings at various temperatures. Be sure the switch is in the auto position on the control. It's easy to catch the off position by mistake. Especially with the cover on.

A simple way to test the control is wire both sensors at the control. Heat the collector sensor with a match or lighter, SLOWLY, and you will hear it click on and the output light will also turn on.

Be sure the solar panel sensor is in contact with the panel or piping near the top and has insulation around it.


If a sensor fails I believe the control fails to the always on?

hot rod

Kevin_in_Denver_2

PRV recommendation

75 psi is probably what you want, the weak link is the expansion tank. Stagnation WILL exceed 75 psi, so you still can have an issue in summer.

hr

Caleffi solar components

their air vents and PRV are listed at 320 and 390F if you plan on high temperature operation.

hot rod

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Ericjeeper

I have noticed lately

The third light for device number 2 stays lit all the time. I do not even have a wire to those screws. is there something wrong with the controller?
The middle light comes on when the pump runs and goes off when it is off, like it is supposed to/.
To my original question. what should the high limit dial be set to? How does it work? as an over ride? I do not understand its function. Thanks in advance

[Deleted User]

The third light...

Goes to a drain down valve or other means of freeze protection.

Set the high limit (storage tank temp) to 180 degrees F provided that all components connected to and immersed within the tank can withstand that high a temperature.

If you go with a pressure only relief valve, the thermal capcity needs to match the thermal output capacity of the solar array. Assume 150 btu's per square foot per hour and you should be covered.

ME

LarryC

Goldline controller

Here is a link to the GoldLine controllers:
http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Solar.aspx

If your controller is the GL-30, the third LED is for "Freeze recirculation" That option can be disabled. Check the I/O document.

Larry C