Looking for some direct vent oil options (Ted G)

Todd_11

What about the Ultra Oil? Direct venting with a pressure differential switch on the burner to prevent firing if the intake or boiler/exhaust is blocked. It is extremeley quiet also.

Ted_9

oil fired

Guys, I usually would go to a Buderus G115 on this job, but I think the heatloss will be too great for the largest G115 direct vent. I'm just looking for options. If the G215 was direct vent, I'd go with that if needed.

So, as always, I'll be doing a heatloss(Preliminary heatloss is at 150,000 btu's), but I'm just researching larger oil fired units that have a direct vent, not a power vent. I'm propably looking for a boiler output of 170,000 btu's. At this point I havent ruled out two smaller direct vent and stage them with a Tekmar control.



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clammy

no pwer vent

hey ted long time i seemed to always have promblems withthe direct vent oil boilers they always are dirty in a year probaly because the burner adj have to be perfect and over a year there's alot of variables ,but have had better results with gun oil related promblems using pre and post relays and tiger loops but on your question i'm not sure but i believethat a tjerlund ss1 will vent a 175 btu boiler i ahve installed a few of them and found them to be the best power venter with damper adjustmentto adjust breech draft so theheat doesn't blow right threw and they fit in a 16 On center beam space zero clearance with a pre and post fan cycle built in and 2 high temp manual reset and very quite in my opion longest yet for one in and no promblems is about 6 years but they do need maintance like evey thing don't oil that motor and you will be buying a new one .I have found that it's cheaper to use it then a install a all fuel chimmey or cheapy mansonasry .The few direct ventors that i have worked on used a outside air boot for the burners air inlet and seemed to always require a proper set up with zero smake to keep them clean hope i could help peace and good luck clammy

Guy_6

Smith

We at Smith have a direct vent oil fired unit in both 3 and 4 section configurations, with or without tankless coil (hey, some people still want them!). The castings are the same used in our Series 8, which has been a mainstay for many years, but the sections are sealed together differently. We worked together with Field to develop the venting kit, and the Carlin oil burner has proven quiet and efficient. It's worth a look.

Guy

Robert O'Brien

How about

the Peerless Pinnacle? Or EK System 2000?

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Ted_9

ok good

Well I'm not willing to try the peerless one yet. I'm not sold on its ability to deal with the oil in our market. But the system 2000 is a good one. I'd have to look at the literature and see if they make one that size.

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singh

Ted

Have you thought about two 115's to match your load?

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Ted_9

yes, I edited my first post. Its nice from a fuel consumption
stance. But more maintenance cost.

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The Kid_2

Two G/115

you should consider two G/115 DV if possible...with outdoor reset the savings alone will out way the maitaince cost..IMO

Will_5

MPODV

Ted,
I've used a few Burnham MPODV's for larger applications, it goes uo to a 200MBH. They've worked out very well for me.

C

Ted_9

MPO

I'll check it out.

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Ted_9

DV

If I can use the UO5 as a DV, that could work.

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Jim Farrell

dv oil....

Check Out Weil-McLain ULTRA OIL

www.weil-mclain.com

Look at the weight of the ULTRA OIL Boiler...
Quality heavy Cast Iron...

Compare to all in it class...

Food for thought...

Ted_9

Biasi

I'm also looking at the Biasi.

Any comments?

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Ted_9

WM uo5

Has anyone here installed the WM Ultra UO5 with the direct vent? How did it go?

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PJO_5

Another one to check...

would be the Dunkirk Ultimate. I have a 4 section in my home...nothing fancy, but she runs pretty smooth on B20...and no power vent.

It's been pretty reliable, except for a transformer, in 8+ years. I have a Beckett AFG with a 0.75 gph nozzle for about 105k btuh output...about as small as I can go with a 4 section. They make them in larger sizes, too.

Take Care, PJO

CC.Rob

interesting problem

As a HO, I can offer my recent experience with historical SE New England climate data (part for real research, part as it relates to home heating). I'm amazed how little of the heating season is made up of design or near-design conditions, particularly if you're at all near the coast. In my hydronically unprofessional opinion, this makes a two-boiler set-up with staging a very attractive option if you are constrained to non-modulating boilers.

[Deleted User]

Biasi

Ted the biasi is a great boiler, three pass design, rear tappings and comes with a reillo burner. They come with there own power venting kit and it seems pretty easy to install. Talk to Delta T in franklin ma. they are a stocking distributer and should have everything you need.

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Bob_88

Buderus

I would agree with two 115/34 Direct vent with Riello burners, also install the logamatic control R2107 which has outdoor reset and also can control your indirect water heater and a recirc pump if needed. Then add the FM 242 card to control the lead lag on the boilers.

These boilers in direct vent are great and the savings will be awesome. Also if a problem arose with one boiler you would have some redundency untill a service tech could get there.

Floyd

Ultra oil

I have install a couple of the CV (chimney) vent Ultra's, they worked wonderful. I just today order a U03 DV (direct vent), don't expect any problems... the way I see it... anything has got to be better than adding a power vent to a regular oil boiler.
As been said many times, alot depends on the people behind ya.
I have a great network behind me with WM. That's worth tons to me!!!

Floyd

Ted_9

Thanks to all of you for you replies. I am armed with info now. Watch out!

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Maine Doug_51

Ted, I have

two Biasi's with Tekmar control on direct vent. I replaced all the single wall stainless vent pipe with insulated stainless pipe. Also replaced the FieldControls vents with stainless vents as the FieldControls vents rotted out in less that 2 years.
The Tekmar dual boiler control I have is primative, has only one P1 output and innsuficient provision for inter-boiler time delay. So it tends to turn on the second boiler before it is needed. Your controller is probably more suited for duals. Most of the time one boiler is enough for the building, the second comes on when it is really cold, when both upstairs zones call for heat in the morning or if you fill the big tub.
The Becketts messed up the back of the building until Quincy replaced them with Reillos.
If I had to do it again, I would build a boiler room onto the back of the building and go with a stack but still use two boilers with a small generator for backup.

kevin coppinger_4

I am w/ Doug....

Direct vents are sometimes neccesary but at all costs I avoid them...Chimneys are almost fail proof, almost...no moving parts. no issue staining siding...

Ted is this for a new house? I find it funny that some contractors will spend big money on parts of the house(carpet, flooring, granite counter tops) but want to cheap it out when it comes to a chimney...
Sorry for the rant. It just drives me nuts to see that some want to spend money in the "wrong" places....kpc

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Ted_9

Remodel

this is a remodel. This contractor is great. He always prefers chimney venting and lines without being asked.

I'll keep you guys posted.

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Bob_88

direct vent

With a Buderus if set up properly I have never had stained siding, in fact if installed thru the sill plate it is very doubtful you will stain the siding. As for moving parts the only thing moving is the burner which is used on the boiler regardless. Positive pressure is a wonderful thing.

kevin coppinger_4

true about ...

both points...The 115 has been my choice for years. I was refering to the power venting. The DV problem comes when you set up the burner to run w/ the incoming air at 40F and the outside air then drops to -20F two months later...there is a problem w/ oil atomizing properly (if at all)...even w/ the VRV inside and a nozzle warmer...very aggrivating. kpc

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Bob_88

atomizing problem

I am in upstate NY and I have 5 years worth of installs out there, I have never had an atomizing problem when using a Riello due to the fact that it has to atomize when the pump pressure is approaching 170 or greater. What burner have you had the problems with??? pump pressure?? Just curious...

kevin coppinger_4

Carlin ez-pro w/ boot

I used that because of the nozzle warmer...I had 2 houses next to each other both had open basements...both set up to specs...in fall. all was well until 1 day in Jan. it was -20f outside... there was frost on the intake for about 24"...burners were stuggling. I had used the areocowl hood and the seperate intake because of cross contamination aviodance issues... It never got that cold last year and I guess things were ok. If the basemnts are warm/enclosed then the issue is less or non existent...oh well. Can the Riello be that much better w/o the nozzle heater?? I mean if you have -20f air being brought into the buner its cold...I have a hard time working at those temps! kpc

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brucewo1b

Kevin

I'm not sure which school or seminar I was at but it was stated that it took 185 PSI to overcome cold air simptoms in burners, so what they said was drop nozzle size and increase to 185. Haven't tried it yet but something to thing about, I have also thought about weighting the doors on VRV to open on a call to let the air mix, would have to be better tan -20 air especially on those short runs.

Bob_88

Pump Pressure

If you look at the latest specs, some Riellos are up to 190 PSI, I have always used the single termination kit and sealed all joints with high temp caulk, the newest ones dont have cross contamination issues. I have worked on all burners and I can honestly say that the riello's if set up right and with a good quality oil filter, (I install 2, on at the tank and 1 spin on with vacume gauge at the burner) I have had no problems. Except for post purge timers, before that problem was resolved. Thanks for the info on the Carlins.