Pictures of the balancing valves I stressed over.

ralman

ralman

What do you think?

These pictures are of the hydronic balancing valves I have been stressed over in some previous posts. The name imprinted on the valve is Welsbach. Looks like a gas valve to me. Think they are reusable? I went to 5 local plumbing/HVAC supply companies and requested Macon balancing valves, any other brand of a balancing valve, or globe valves, in that order. Nobody carries any of the above and the only thing they can order is globe valves. But..., why would I want to do that, just use a ball valve is what they told me, It'll be fine. Is that good advice?

Ken_40

That's called a...

brass plug cock.

They can be taken apart easily, can be cleaned, steel-wooled and greased and put back in service. They would cost you over 100 a pop if you could get them.

The ball valve concept is interesting. The plug cocks are everything.

Roll up your sleeves.

kevin coppinger_4

looks like...

an old gas cock to me....ball valves are more reliable and will be easier to adjust...what are you balancing?

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ralman

Hmmm....

Comes apart without much trouble, but there is damage on the threaded part. Four pieces, the valve body, the part that rotates, a thick specially shaped washer, and the nut. I think I can repair the thread damage. I can clean it as well. What type of grease is specified for this valve should I choose to reuse it?

tim smith

balancing valves

Those were used on gas and water, use gas valve grease on them after cleaning, liberally grease them before putting back in. They are not perfect but they have worked for many years. Also as I posted before, you could get true circuit setters valves from Armstrong or B&G. Good luck.

Ken_40

You can use:

Plumber's grease. (a semi-waterproof compound, usually sold in a little plastic "cup" with flip-lid)

Vasoline. (On the rare ocassion I did not have plumber's grease on the truck...)

Silicone based grease.

"Never Seize"

Remember, once you set them, they will not likely be taken apart again for the next 40 years, so don't let the grease get too heavy.

Also, realize the cock is tapered. The cock should not be fully tightened (by cranking the nut) until you have dialed in the two circuits! Once that is done, snug up the tension nut (whcih forces the taper even tighter into the body, acting like a cork) some more, until any weaping is completely stopped. This may need to be monitored for a month or so, so the proper leak-proof tension is met.

If you over-tighten the nut, the brass/bronze thread will "stretch" and may snap. Given the nature of the taper, and the relative softness of the brass/bronze, it will stop leaking with surprisingly modest nut tightening!

Good luck.

Ken_40

Tim may be correct...

But, true balancing valves require a guage set that will add appreciatively to what would other-wise be an expensive solution, more in line with a commercial setting.

An even cheaper and satisfactory replacement, should you choose not to stay with what you have, is the simple "balancing valve" Usaually sweat, not FPT, they are rarer and rarer to find. They are merely a brass body with a miniature ping-pong paddle inside. A slot screw on the "paddle" shaft, allows one to rotate the paddle to closed (not a positive stop, just lots of restriction)or full open (the paddle in-line with flow) and anything in between. For some reason, despite their low price, they have fallen out of favor somewhat. Few know they exist. Fewer still bother to stock them. The end result? Nobody ever heard of them that's under 40 years old (;-o)

I'd stick with cleaning up what you have.

ralman

Thank you.

I have seen the plumbers grease at the hardware store before. The test equipment I had looked at before was very expensive and I lack the training required to use it any way.

S Davis

Globe

Why not just use a globe valve that is what they are made for, I would not use a ball valve as you can get flow noise from water going over the sharp edges of the ball JMHO.


S Davis