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radiator size
Mike T., Swampeast MO
Member Posts: 6,928
Given those dimensions that's almost certainly a "slenderized" three-tube radiator with about 50 square feet of EDR.
Actually that's not very large in the world of iron radiators. Problem however is that 3" depth. Those "slenderized" radiators were the very last iron rads produced and can be rather hard to find.
A traditional three-tube radiator about 38" high and 36" long is nearly identical in size. BUT, it is 5¼" deep. There are a number of other sizes/configurations with the same EDR rating (and 50 sq.ft. EDR seems a fairly common size in salvage), but I'll wager that nearly anything you could find within a reasonable length of time would be deeper than 3" (actually the book says they're 3¼" deep).
Replacing a standing iron radiator with baseboard is generally a very bad idea! They have GREATLY different output characteristics and could well require extensive and expensive changes to your system.
If the current rad is on an outside wall and you're making an addition (sounds like what you're saying), you REALLY REALLY REALLY need to find a pro who is familiar with hot water systems using iron radiators! If you're lucky they'll have some in reserve for just such a use.
You provided way too little information to give any reasonable advice as to sizing as again it sounds like you're expanding an existing room.
The most common heating disasters in systems with standing iron radiators begin with "I want to remodel the kitchen!" Please don't become another statistic and don't just use a "plumber" unless that plumber is HIGHLY familiar with these heating systems!
The FIRST thing you need to do is find appropriate radiator(s) based on the size and loss of the new space <I>and in comparison to the sizing in the rest of the house</I>. Determining the size is of the rad(s) is no problem for a heat pro, but finding them may be... New ones are available, but sizes are quite limited and price is quite high. You may well need to make changes (or concessions) in your kitchen design to suit what can be found.
Be VERY wary of anyone suggesting to use a so-called "kickspace heater"! Such can be even more difficult than baseboard to <I>properly</I> integrate into a system using standing iron rads!!!!
Check "Find a Professional" here at this site to see if anyone is listed in your area. If not, do some serious calling to heating firms. Ask point blank if they regularly work with old systems using iron rads. Ask if they have a stash of rads to use for their jobs. If they do, there's a <I>very</I> good chance that they truly know how to use them...
Actually that's not very large in the world of iron radiators. Problem however is that 3" depth. Those "slenderized" radiators were the very last iron rads produced and can be rather hard to find.
A traditional three-tube radiator about 38" high and 36" long is nearly identical in size. BUT, it is 5¼" deep. There are a number of other sizes/configurations with the same EDR rating (and 50 sq.ft. EDR seems a fairly common size in salvage), but I'll wager that nearly anything you could find within a reasonable length of time would be deeper than 3" (actually the book says they're 3¼" deep).
Replacing a standing iron radiator with baseboard is generally a very bad idea! They have GREATLY different output characteristics and could well require extensive and expensive changes to your system.
If the current rad is on an outside wall and you're making an addition (sounds like what you're saying), you REALLY REALLY REALLY need to find a pro who is familiar with hot water systems using iron radiators! If you're lucky they'll have some in reserve for just such a use.
You provided way too little information to give any reasonable advice as to sizing as again it sounds like you're expanding an existing room.
The most common heating disasters in systems with standing iron radiators begin with "I want to remodel the kitchen!" Please don't become another statistic and don't just use a "plumber" unless that plumber is HIGHLY familiar with these heating systems!
The FIRST thing you need to do is find appropriate radiator(s) based on the size and loss of the new space <I>and in comparison to the sizing in the rest of the house</I>. Determining the size is of the rad(s) is no problem for a heat pro, but finding them may be... New ones are available, but sizes are quite limited and price is quite high. You may well need to make changes (or concessions) in your kitchen design to suit what can be found.
Be VERY wary of anyone suggesting to use a so-called "kickspace heater"! Such can be even more difficult than baseboard to <I>properly</I> integrate into a system using standing iron rads!!!!
Check "Find a Professional" here at this site to see if anyone is listed in your area. If not, do some serious calling to heating firms. Ask point blank if they regularly work with old systems using iron rads. Ask if they have a stash of rads to use for their jobs. If they do, there's a <I>very</I> good chance that they truly know how to use them...
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Comments
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radiator size
My country home is in Jim Thorpe, PA and I will do a little remodeling. I have been given a few different answers from contractors to this question and am confused so I am asking you experts. What size radiator (for hot water heat) do I need to replace one that is 6L by 1.5H by 3D in a kitchen that is 9 by 10 and 10 high. I am opening up the room right where the radiator is. There is not space available for another long one, so the replacement would have to be either one that is taller and no more than 3 long and 3D, or two on either side of opening no more than 3 long.
Also, for the new room which is 10 by12 by 10high. Could I use one radiator that is tall, how big, or how many feet of base board ¾ do I need. This room never freezes because has sunlight.
Any recommendations on finding good used radiators? Any help for this question?
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It's impossible to measure heat loss over the web; just giving the size of the room doesn't do it. No one here can give you a precise answer. You'll have to hire a professional who knows what he/she is doing (not everyone does, unfortunately).
When in doubt, put in the larger of the possible choices, this is smart even if it costs more money. Then make sure they also put in a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve). This will throttle the heat down if there is too much, but nothing can really help you if you have too little in the way of radiators.
Doubling the height of a radiator doesn't give you twice the heat, because the hot air from the lower part rises and prevents the upper part of the radiator from emitting as much as otherwise.0
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