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Gate valves
John_54
Member Posts: 17
I have a 24 unit building with hot water heat. I have 2 Questions
1. Three of the 2 inch gate valves don't seal off the water flow anymore. It makes it a problem to do work on the system as all the water has to be drained rather than just a zone. Can I just replace the gates or does the whole valve need to be replaced. The piping is probably 50 years old and the less I disrupt it the better.
2. I knocked the copper pipe connection for the third furnace that we don't have anymore and the 2 inch soldered elbow started a slow drip. I stopped the drip with plumbers goop and a rubber sleeve held with hose clamps. Is there a better solution to fix it until I get the system drained and repaired properly.
Thanks for any advice
John
1. Three of the 2 inch gate valves don't seal off the water flow anymore. It makes it a problem to do work on the system as all the water has to be drained rather than just a zone. Can I just replace the gates or does the whole valve need to be replaced. The piping is probably 50 years old and the less I disrupt it the better.
2. I knocked the copper pipe connection for the third furnace that we don't have anymore and the 2 inch soldered elbow started a slow drip. I stopped the drip with plumbers goop and a rubber sleeve held with hose clamps. Is there a better solution to fix it until I get the system drained and repaired properly.
Thanks for any advice
John
0
Comments
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Companies in NYC used to specialize just in that
But I don't think it would be cost effcient any more. Replace them. Mad Dog
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gate valves
I agree with MAD DOG, replace them if you can. Old gate valves have a habit of collection debris in the seat area and an even worse habit of snapping off the stem when you try to close them too tightly. Replacing them as a planned maintenance project is a lot easier than having to shut them off in an emergency with no success. Use a quality ball valve.
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'nothing lasts forever,you know it never will\"
R&R vote 3 *~/:)0 -
Agree, agree, and agree...
Before winter comes, replace the two gates with full-port ball valves and remove and replace that copper elbow with a new one.
Gate valves were never intended to be a positive stop anyhow. Yes, they will be a positive stop when new, but not over time and cannot be serviced practically. A rubber washered stop IS a positive stop - and could be repaired, if that's what you had. But you don't.
Above all, don't even think about resoldering the copper elbow joint without complete disassembly. It had to have been a marginal joint from day one. Be thankful for the 20 years...0 -
I had a simular situation on a 4" gate valve on the back of a 50 year old boiler. I was able to take it apart, clean out the junk in the bottom and around where the gate seats and it worked quite well. It won't always work but it might.0 -
There is nothing worse than walking into a boiler room with a number of gate valves in varying stages of decay. They're usually jammed open but you don't know until you put a wrench on it. I thought everyone stopped buying them 10/15 years ago. I will occasionally leave them in and piggy=back on with a pro press ball-valve, but that's it. Playing Mr. fixit can really blow up in your face.0
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