Ruby fluid

Joe D.

The little, small (about the diameter of a 1/2 dollar) tub of the C-flux cost about 4 dollars at Ace hardware, and the same size of Nokorode cost 1.99. for comparison.

Joe D.

Ruby Fluid and soldering

Are you supposed to use that stuff in copper tubing work?
I am doing some copper tubing work on my future hot water heating system, and had a quart bottle of ruby fluid I found at an auction a while back laying around.
Is it usable in this situation? I have had it for a long time and never quite knew what it was used to solder.
I was just going to use regular paste flux, and have been, but just having the ruby fluid around makes me curious. Can I, should I, and how do you apply it??

More questions. I am doing 1-1/4" tubing, and the largest I have ever done before is 3/4". I clean and clean with emery cloth and then put on the paste flux, and some of the joints look a bit iffy.

I want this water tight the first time. Right now I am just doing some bench work making closely spaced tee's and I already took one set apart because I had doubts, and sure enough the interior of the tee wasn't completely tinned.

Not clean enough and/or too much heat because of the size of the parts?

Using a propane torch. Paste flux from the hardware store. I try to have each mating surface bright.
Do you need to wipe out/off each surface to get rid of the byproducts of the emery cloth. Blowing the dust out not enough.
This isn't my real job! Taking my time and wanting to do it right the first time.
Constructive criticism welcome...

Steve Ebels_3

Why take a chance

It'll cost you less than $10 bucks to go to a supply house (not HD) and get a can of good paste flux. You're talking about HOURS of wasted time if the old flux doesn't do the job. Having repaired/resoldered many leakers for people myself, it's a no brainer.

Joe D.

Well, it's a one pound tub of Nokorode I've had for about 10 years. I only used a small amount out of the tub over the years, but I didn't know it could degrade by being old?


I should go buy some new, huh?


Do I take that as a no on the ruby fluid?

Steve Ebels_3

Answers to 1, 2 & 3

Yes!

I had a REALLY bad experience with some Oatey, usually a good product, that had gotten to warm and "separated" according to the factory guy. Suffice to say that I have not used any Oatey products since nor any other flux unless it was fresh. Trust me, it's not worth it.

Unknown

Ruby Fluid????????

Never heard-of-it, and Nokorode??? same! up here NoCorrode(spelling?), was an old rolled-pressed tarpaper sewer pipe they used up till the 60`s. As far as solder paste goes, we up-here mostly use Kester.... Interesting product names anyway!

Plumdog_2

flux

Sometimes, in a pinch, you can stir up an old batch to make it work again. Even new flux can seperate especially when exposed to heat; like in the back of a van on a very hot day. But a new, clean tub of flux; stirred well and kept clean, used sparingly, will make all the difference. Google up the Copper.org site for good info.

hot_rod

The newer water soluable fluxes

take a bit more care. The burn point is very close to the melt point of no-lead solders. Not a lot of error room!

I use C-Flux a RectorSeal product, I believe. It has some ground up solder in it and tins very well. It does burn and go black if overheated. If that happens disassemble, clean, reflux and try again.

The least amount of flux possible. A thin film is all that is needed. Over fluxing causes pools of no solder. Dis-assemble some joints to check you work.


For some reason Mapp gas works a lot better than propane tanks. Better yet actylene if you have a lot of joints to solder.

hot_rod

And don't forget to ream ALL copper tube after cutting.

Mark Hunt

That's the stuff


that came out of the wicked witch of the east when the house fell on her.

Wait........she had Ruby slippers.

AH HA!

"Ruby Fluid" was a song by the Rolling Stones!

Wait........that was "Ruby Tuesday".

That's all I got.

Mark H



To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Weezbo

spend a dollar....

get some open mesh, a can of flux, a pound of solder, some Bridget or silver solder 95 /5 , a flux brush .a clean cotton rag, a pipe reamer, "little red spinny tool" i call them

ream ,clean, cut and ream, clean, flux ...put the pieces together with a thin film on the cup and on the pipe ...once they are all together pump heat to the fittings and warm the work piece roll the solder out a foot or two dip it in the flux... heat the hech out of the fitting back and belly then apply the fluxed solder it should run like water ...move the heat about a bit ...remember the flux goes to the heat the solder goes to the flux... wipe the finished joint with the dry rag oh take the torch down a notch the piece is plenty hot by now and all you are using the heat for now is uniformity of the heat ....

KAG

O.K.

Let's start at "awhile back I bought at an auction". If Filet Minon was 10 years old and you were getting a great deal, because it was left out would you buy it? Here's your sign. Not to get personnal, but as a professional I have to explain my prices and now you know why we charge what we do. THERE ARE NO SHORT CUTS TO SAVING, just liabilities waiting to happen. Look at it this way, would you have bought the product if it meet your families safety? I know it is not that big of deal, but I live I Mass and know of one family that thought it should have been a big deal (The tunnel collapse). Call a pro and think of your families safety. Water and Eletricity do not mix no matter what your intensions.

mtfallsmikey

That old tarpaper sewer pipe was

Called Orangeburg. Made in Orangeburg S.C. during WW II, to conserve steel. And I have used Nokorode flux (correct sp.) for over 30 years, that was all Dad ever used. I buy new if I get any dirt,trash, spooge in the can, which is so easy to do!

Joe D.

This paste flux I have has been hot and must have separated. I looked in the tub one summer cause the lid got knocked off, and I seen the contents was a gooey, semi-liquid.


Now, I read all these posts and no one has come up with any explanations about the ruby fluid soldering and tinning flux!

I have seen Oranageburg sewer pipe down here where I live. Usually when someone is having sewer problems it is because that stuff has collapsed.

hot_rod

Is ruby fluid

a brand name? i've not heard that name before. Could be a mild acid like some sheetmetal shops use to solder galv sheetmetal?

I'd stick with a flux that meets the standards for DHW plumbing use, to be safe. Iit may linger inside you pipes, and body, for a long time. Why guess?

hot rod

Joe D.

Joe D.

Holy crap.

Went and bought some Rectorseal C-Flux, with the 95~5 tin composition, and what a difference that made.

Solder flowed real smooth and quick, joints wiped up and it looks like I know what I am doing.

We can call this case closed.!!

Unknown

Glad you solved............

your problem Joe, sorry I couldn`t help on the "Ruby Fluid" question, but like I said, I`ve never heard-of-it!
When I started in the trade we used "wiped lead-joints", now that was a trick!

EBEBRATT-Ed

My peronal favorite is "nokarode Pre tinning flux" and "silvabrite 100" solder.


I don't care what it costs. I just don't have leaks with it. Nokarode is now made by Rectorseal

ED