radiant zone on existing boiler

Mike T., Swampeast MO

IMHO you will save yourself MUCH aggravation and expense if you can integrate the radiator into your design.

Iron rads typically operate at significantly lower temps that radiant "staple-up"! Especially true in a kitchen where floor space is already limited!! If the floor has more than 3/4" of wood I wouldn't even consider unless you use HEAVY conduction plates!!!

MANY heating disasters begin with "I want to remove the kitchen radiator"!!!!

Kevin Shaw

radiant zone on existing boiler


Guys,

I want to add a staple up radiant zone to my existing Quantum 90 boiler. This is required due to remodeling and a need to get rid of cast iron radiator in kitchen. I currently have 3 supply and return loops plumbed to the boiler, but all on the same zone. The only pump is the taco circulator that came with the boiler. Do the two zones have to be isolated? What is the right way to isolate the two zones? Do I need zone valves or can this be done by adding an additional pump only?

kevin

Ken_40

You could do

either.

If you want to go dead cheap, simply put a low temp-three-way mixing valve in, piped as per instructions that come with the 3-way.

You can tweak the setting to control water temps in the radiant zone, but will have no "independent" control.

A separate zone valve, with 3-way, a stat and the piping will be pricey by comparison, but the right way to get control of the radiant zone/circuit.

I assume you have some sort of balancing valve already for the three circuits?

Kevin Shaw

Yes the 3 circuits are controlled by purge and balance valves.

If I just use the mixing valve how will the water get into the radiant floor loop? Isn't the tubing very restrictive compared to my 2.5 inch radiator piping? I though of this option first then reconsidered based on the whole path of least resistance thing.

kevin