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Insulpex

I have a request to install a boiler in a building 120' away from the main house, and it will require using Insulpex to connect the two structures. Problem is, the entry to each building is going to be at acute angles and in very limited space. How difficult is it to work with Insulpex (i.e. tight radius turns, etc)? Is there a better way to do this, or are there other products that might be easier to install from a labor standpoint?

Comments

  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    Hope this helps...

    The wise-crack response may be suggesting the installation of Vitodens' in the attic. They (like many condensing boilers today) are so silent as to be "invisible" as long as the space they take up isn't missed. But I'll bet an ice cream you thought of that long ago, so...

    As a mere homeowner, I have never worked with InsulPEX. Here are some links to previous articles that mentioned InsulPEX: #1, #2, #3. Perhaps further searches using the alternatives to InsulPEX will help further?

    Another option may be to do the acute angles as needed in brass/copper/whatever and then to wrap the joint followed by an outer cover/box fabricated out of XPS. Or a box of XPS with a small hole for a polyurethane gun...

    Perhaps the most useful thing I'm doing here is bumping your post back up to where it might catch the fancy of the luminaries. Cheers!
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,663
    EcoFlex vs Insulpex

    I've used the Ecoflex numerous times for remote URD piping. It works in any angle or any application. Bend radius is 24-36", depending upon the sizing. I usually use the ThermoTwin for heating supply and returns, Twin for potable Hot water and DHWRecirc, and a single for the CW supply. For obvious reasons, you don't want the CW in the same pipe as the HW.

    The Insulpex allows multiple pipes to be inserted in the tube, however it's best suited for straight runs. Turns are difficult.

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