Main vent on one pipe steam system in small building

Steamhead (in transit)

use a Gorton #2 at the end of each one.

But those 50-foot risers also need venting unless you want the top floors to freeze. If they're 2-inch all the way to the top, vent them with a Gorton #2 on each. You'll probably end up drilling and tapping for 1/2" pipe just below the ceiling on the fourth floor, this will keep them out of harm's way.

If you now find the steam is going up the first risers before it gets to the ends of the mains, double the Gorton #2 vents on the mains.

Then skim the boiler. I'll bet those water-filled vents are caused by wet steam. Oil sitting on top of the boiler water interferes with steam formation, and the steam that does get thru often carries water with it.

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mike jones

MAIN VENT on one pipe steam system in small building

MAIN VENT on one pipe steam system in small building


We seem to have wet steam in small 10 unit townhouse. Researching this site led us to check the main vent, a cheap us air vent valve which was replaced with another cheapy that got stuck closed within the first heating cycle. Amazing. Our pressure is set at only 1 lb on the Honeywell gadget and doesn’t register on the circular guage psi. Someone suggested a Caddilac Gorton #2 for $50. Is this really what we should use, we want to be sure that it is not oversized and will NOT actually lead to more problems. You guys are amazing and we thank you in advance for any possible solutions.

Alan(OnVacationInOregon)Forbes

Problem is

we can tell you what to do until we're blue in the face; what you need is someone familiar with steam systems to actually look at your system and make the appropriate changes. We can't see the important things on your system to make proper suggestions, i.e. type and size of boiler, near-boiler piping, size and length of mains......things like that.

Have you had a professional come by?

Long Beach Ed

Mike,

If the main is long or big, the Gorton is probably indicated. The problem we have is figuring out what distroyed your old vent. If the thing's not piped right or the near boiler piping is incorrect, you'll just make $50 in scrap metal out of that Gorton.

Money paid to an expert will be returned tenfold in fuel savings.

Long Beach Ed

Steamhead (in transit)

Mike, you need to measure

the length and diameter of that main so we can tell you whether the Gorton is right for it.

Those cheapo air vents can be expected to fail quickly, don't go by your experience with them when considering the Gorton.

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mike jones

Thank you i am sure for answering our post. We’ve been busy measuring and getting past some insulation so we can learn what type of vents are appropriate. Our biggest problem upstairs seems to be water accumulating in the radiator vents even with proper pitch and new maid o mist valves with holes corresponding to radiator size and location. .

2, 3in. pipes rise out of the old american standard boiler and lead to what you must be calling headers 3in. pipes well above boiler 6ft long .

This branches off to a north main and south main for each side of the building.

North main is 25ft. of 2,5in. pipe which turns right. Branching off is 10ft of 2in. pipe which risers up through the 5 story townhouse longest riser which is 2” of 50’ high. North main also branches left to other north riser which reduces to 1 .5inch of 20’ long that risers up 25’ of 1.5” riser for 3 stories

In the same direction north Main also branches off to return line of 2.5in. goes 2ft., T’s off to the main vent and goes down 6ft. reducing to 1.25 in.to floor at 45 degrees then 10ft. across cellar floor and continues at floor level around periphery pitching down another 25ft back to boiler floor to join south main return and rise back into boiler.

South main is 30ft. of 2.5in. which turns right. Branching off is 10ft of 2in. pipe which risers up through the 5 story townhouse riser which is 2” of 50’ high. South main also branches left to 2in. return which T’s 1eft.. In the same direction south Main also branches off to other south riser which is 10’ long that risers up 50’ of 2” riser for 5 stories.

The return line of 2.5in. goes 2ft., T’s off to the main vent and goes down 6ft. reducing to 1.25 in.to floor at 45 degrees then 10ft. across cellar floor and continues at floor level to clean out plug and around periphery pitching down another 30ft back to boiler floor to join north main return. .

There is an ancient fat dole 6b (vacuum?) vent with 3 holes at the top which is well stuck into the main south T with no bushing

We finally loosened a smaller ancient vent on the north main which is the colder side of the building with the most heat problems and want to change this immediately with a good proper vent. If a vent works, can you feel the cool air blow out of the main upon start up, or is it just a timing thing?

Our pressuretroll is set at 7.5 and the separate Honeywell cut in box says 1psi with a 3 differential inside. I cant find any differential inside the pressuretroll box. (do these 2 boxes act as a team?). Ashcroft guage used to get up to 3psi and now doesn’t even register. The settings have been this way many years and only got bad filling the air vents last year (limiting heat unless emptied every day or two), by now we’re goin broke. Pigtails are clean, pipes are insulated, steam guy said near boiler piping is proper. Crazy thing is no knocking or spitting anywhere in the system, just quiet, sneaky heat problems and wet vents stopping up radiators.
i just hope i'm not confusimg all the things i am reading about on this site. why cant i stop reading this stuff, i am a handy ho HA_HO, but far from gifted pro.