Fire proof material

Unknown

Does anyone know of a fire retardant material that does not respond to moisture?

I would normally use the fire retardanr drywall/sheetrock but I am concerned about it breaking down by humidity over time at this peticular application.

Any suggestions?

Thank you

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Portland cement based plaster?

jerry scharf_3

i know of a couple choices

Norm,

One is the cemetaceous (sp?) coatings like grace monokote. The other is the intumescent paint like firefree88. Neither will be bothered by moisture in the least, and the paint would actually protect the surface it's on from moisture as well. Both when applied to spec satisfy the requirements for either 15 minute or 1 hour fire ratings.

I like the paint better, it's thin, less messy to apply and much nicer looking when it's done.

Qoutes I got were in the range of $4+/sqft for monokote and ~$3/sqft for firefree88 for 15 minute barrier to protect exposed foam.

hope that helps.

jerry

Brian (Tankless)

Try a visit to

www.supertherm.com they have some great products.

I've used them on metal roofing projects in the very hot, deep south, and I wouldn't have believed the before and after temperature differences if I hadn't taken the measurements myself.

We measured a 60* temp drop on the underside of one (previously bare metal) roof.

We were originally contracted only to repair/waterproof an un-air conditioned warehouse, but the owner was so amazed with the infra-red thermometer readings that he had us coat all of the rest of his buildings (walls too).

It's all in the micro-spheres.

Good luck.

Brian Wood.

P.S.

Sorry, the site is www.supertherm.net (not com)

It really is great stuff.

Bob Harper

intended use or function?

Would help a lot knowing this. I wouldn't recommend anything without knowing this info.

Harold

Retardant use

I am planning on using this sort of fireproofing in a pool pit. I am going to spray foam on walls, floor joists for the pool room above, and the pool itself. The shapes and locations (particularly the pool) make it essentailly impossible to drywall.

Another note: I was going to spray foam on all the first floor joists to isolate the radiant floor from the heated space below. That would be incredibly messey, hard, and expensive. Instead I reduced the planned concrete thickness and put 3" of foam under the 2" concrete floor upstairs.