Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

wirsbo knocking

Gene_2
Gene_2 Member Posts: 59
in THE MAIN WALL
That was it. Thanks Rocky!

Comments

  • Gene_2
    Gene_2 Member Posts: 59
    wirsbo knocking

    I manage the maintenance department for a 45 unit hotel. In our luxury suites we feature in-floor heat. We have had an issue with knocking in the walls (when actuators are opening) for years. We have bled the system repeatedly and recently installed auto air-relief valves on every manifold, however the problem continues. It was recommended to me to turn off the recirc pump to allow the air to escape and I am currently waiting to see if it's successful. But, as we are entering our peak season I am continuing to pursue solutions and this site was recommended by a professional plumber I've been consulting with. Any ideas?
  • Gene_2
    Gene_2 Member Posts: 59
    wirsbo knocking

    I manage the maintenance department for a 45 unit hotel. In our luxury suites we feature in-floor heat. We have had an issue with knocking in the walls (when actuators are opening) for years. We have bled the system repeatedly and recently installed auto air-relief valves on every manifold, however the problem continues. It was recommended to me to turn off the recirc pump to allow the air to escape and I am currently waiting to see if it's successful. But, as we are entering our peak season I am continuing to pursue solutions and this site was recommended by a professional plumber I've been consulting with. Any ideas?
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    Fastening is important.*~/:)

    try opening up the wall or ceiling and adding a few talon clamps or plastic tubing omega clamps.....next time fastening the tubing should be easy at rough in...
  • bigugh_4
    bigugh_4 Member Posts: 406
    Just-a-question

    Have the actuaters been instsalled frontwards, that is the flow going thru the actuators correct? Many valves bang or knock if the flow is wrong thru them!
  • Dave McGavin
    Dave McGavin Member Posts: 3
    Noises in the night (and day)

    We went through a similar situation in a client’s home. It seemed to be quite unpredictable and very disturbing despite careful monitoring by the owners. It was a clunk - clunking sound that went through the entire system (installed by others). The sound could be heard clearly at the circulator if we happened to be nearby. Air in the system was a suspect because of the original design and piping which would be difficult and costly to change at this stage. The wet rotor circulator bearings were quite worn so we replaced it and the system was very quiet, while we were there.

    The owners called later, (very patient, understanding people - she is a lawyer), to say that the system may be a bit quieter but the clunk - clunking noise didn’t leave with us and the old circulator. They continued to monitor the noise and decided that it was loudest at manifold #3. We huddled around that manifold in a small closet for quite awhile until that maddening sound occurred again - more pronounced here than elsewhere in the system.

    Success at last! The clunking sound occurred somewhat after the Kitchen zone, connected to this manifold, was satisfied. We removed the electric actuator on the bronze manifold and found that the flow control cartridge stem would stick open then close suddenly instead of the controlled slow closing that is the normal operation. These cartridges are available for the current Wirsbo manifolds but may not be available for the older T-A manifold.

    After this experience, I would suggest turning up room thermostats several degrees above room temperature to determine if the noise is resulting from one or more zones sticking in the open position then closing suddenly. I hope our unusual experience here is some help. Please let us know what you find.
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,883
    I would

    look into the size of the circulator to see if its the wrong flow rate for the system.

    Also with that many zone valves I would think a Preasure Differential Valve would solve alot of this problem.

    Scott

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • John Felciano
    John Felciano Member Posts: 411
    Yeah

    I was thinking the very same thing.
  • hydronicsmike
    hydronicsmike Member Posts: 855
    not a pro in this....

    ...but I think a similar situation on one of the jobs we did in the UK was originally blamed on Control Logic, but was later resolved after a Pressure Bypass Valve AND the Actuators were installed on the right side on the manifold.

    Unless it is caused by expansion and contraction, meaning water temperature supplied is too high.

    Hope this helps.

    Mike
  • Rocky_2
    Rocky_2 Member Posts: 89
    Knocking telestats are almost invariably due

    to being installed on the wrong side of the piping. The telestats (actuators) MUST go on the return piping manifold. If they are installed on the supply piping, they will knock almost 100% of the time. Have found this at multiple homes I've been to that complain of the "Phantom Knock". Double check to make sure that the telestats are mounted on the manifold that sends the water back to the boiler to be reheated.
    Best of Luck,
    Rocky
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,340
    Just a thought.

    Found 1 apt. building with a simular problem and it was comming from the pipping itself which was very tight and encared in concrete. ( no room for expansion). We added 1" and 3/4" expansion joints which helped for the most part.Sound usually was more prevelant in tennant space. That was the reason of adding exp. joints.
This discussion has been closed.

Categories