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Judge this Peerless Install

Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
i see a fill just no t for it or an air eliminator or spirovent ....i like the looks of it though.


  • Jeremy
    Jeremy Member Posts: 52
    Judge this Peerless Installation

    Hello Wallies-Finally trying to post pics for an installation we did this summer. Always trying to improve our installs so let it rip. Job was a simple 4 Zone ranch house with a 40 Gallon super store indirect.
  • That ain't no Super Stor like I've ever seen:-)

    But it IS a nice install...

    Looks more like a TTP tank in a tank:-)

  • Jeremy
    Jeremy Member Posts: 52

    Sorry-its a Smart 40 Indirect by Triangle Tube.
  • Jeremy
    Jeremy Member Posts: 52
    Steel Expansion tank

    Steel expansion tank is located in the ceiling. It was just replaced by another company a few months before we put the new boiler in.
  • Scott04
    Scott04 Member Posts: 69

    Nice install!

    Two things that I do different, although they don't make too much of a difference.

    1) I keep the circulators the same color. (I save the OEM ones and when I have enough for a job, I use all black ones)

    2) At the end of the iron header, I always use a tee with a plug. It makes it so much easier to add another zone later on!

    I myself won't reuse a steel tank, regardless of age. Can't really tell you why, I just don't! (probably a result of draining 1 too many at 2 a.m.!)

  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 2,767
    Lokks good

    Looks good only small improvenments i would drop a 3/8 rod to support your pump all that weight on just the one tee and may be pulled the boiler a little further off the back wall so it is easer to pull the ell and check the chimmet base in the future .Just a side note on oilo boiler i always try to leave as much room as i can to make it very easy to remove the top and brush the section down if you make it to hard no one will pull the top and clean her properly ,other then a that great looking job keep up the good work peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Mark_60
    Mark_60 Member Posts: 13

    Is a low water cut-off required in your area? I don't see one on this job. I like to keep the oil filter close to the burner, I am not sure where your's is located. Maybe use flex connectors to help with servicing the swing out door.
    All of these are preference, just my .02

    Nice Job!!
  • Nice work Jeremy

    Very thoughtful touches like the boiler on blocks , the indirect drain piped to the floor , the coated oil line , the ball valve drain instead of the cheapie drain Peerless sends nowadays , and the rear flue outlet for easy cleaning of the boiler .

    A few things we do different - we offset the circs so it's easier to get to each wiring box . And I like to mount the Taco relay sideways with the lights up to neaten the wiring our a bit . I don't know why Taco doesn't give you extra knockouts on top like Argo does . And although I like the hard piped drain for the indirect , a simple brass tee and drain will work just as well when a washing machine hose is on it .

    Nice job Jeremy . How long have you been installing ? And what area do you work ?
  • hydronx_3
    hydronx_3 Member Posts: 35
    pump isolation valves

    Pump flange/isolation ball valves on the top side of the circulators would be really handy for servicing the pumps.


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  • Ron Schroeder
    Ron Schroeder Member Posts: 998
    A nice looking Intsall

    but is a Firomatic valve not required at the burner, and is it 5 feet to that oil tank that appears to creap into one pictue?
    I also like that ball valve boiler drian as those supplied things rot in my book, I like mounting a Garber Filter at the corner of the boiler with a firomatic and service valve and braided line from there to the burner helps a lot in service in the future.
  • Jeremy
    Jeremy Member Posts: 52
    Thanks Ron Jr.

    Thanks for the kind words Ron. Coming from a Installation Great like you, that makes me feel proud. I have been in business for 5 years and have been in the trade for 15 years. We are located in Southeast Pa. just outside of Philadelphia. It's educational to hear different comments/ideas from others and will definatly take everyone advise.

    The oil tank is close to the boiler in the picture, but it is over 5' away. I have started using the Taco 110 Volt LWCO since that job and have had good results with it. Once again thanks!
  • Bob_77
    Bob_77 Member Posts: 3

    I would suggest flexible oil line to burner and some sort of support on the end of the pump manifold. Looks good..
  • airflo mech
    airflo mech Member Posts: 11

    Nice install.one change i would make,loacate circs away from top of boiler.future waters leaks and service of circs.looks good...
  • airflo mech
    airflo mech Member Posts: 11

    Nice install.one change i would make,locate circs away from top of boiler.future waters leaks and service of circs.looks good...
  • ED_29
    ED_29 Member Posts: 11

    Nice looking job! I would have used 6" nip`s in between circ~s. Also you should always leave room for servicing the unit,like the smoke pipe is againest the wall. Also, when we install a boiler it is always with the thought that we will be coming back to service it. Therefore I would suggest that you give this some thought in the future !
  • Looks good overall

    the other posters have made some good suggestions for the next one. That's how it works- try to make the next one better.

    Someday you'll come back to this job and see how far you've come. Happens to me all the time.

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  • Jeremy
    Jeremy Member Posts: 52

    Hey Guys, thanks for the nice comments and I will definantly take all tips to the next job. Got a few more coming soon, so look for more updates. Thanks again!!

  • Brad White_125
    Brad White_125 Member Posts: 28
    Maybe I am too conservative

    and correct me if I am wrong, but the boiler outlet looks to be 1" IPS?

    The sum of the outlets would seem to exceed that so am concerned that if all calls, it may be turbulent and noisy. A potential for that anyway. This is why I think that:

    The Zone #1 circulator gets first dibs on flow, all flow will be first influenced by that (drawn toward it when it is on) so the others have to fight the first zone and pull off to the side. The Zone #1 circulator has the benefit of full velocity head while the others have to extract from that is another way to put it.

    I guess what I would do is up-size the header by one size if not two and enter it as a "T" or extended from an elbow such that the first branches are away from the elbow. Header size can be subjective but I would but at least as large in cross sectional area as the sum of all connected branch cross sectional areas. Sometimes a size up from that if it is close and in my opinion not less than 1-1/4" IMHO. The suction side of a circulator is a sensitive spot so minimizing effects of cumulative circulators is a good thing.

    The second thought is that I would make the DHW circulator the first one; more for tradition and a statement of it's priority than anything else really :)

    The other comments as to air separator, isolation flanges and expansion tank connection also came to mind...

    By all means run the system first and in all modes and combinations of circulators and see if there are any issues before you go and change anything! Happy to be wrong and corrected. Maybe save the thoughts for the next one?

    Anyway, not to be a skunk at a garden party, that is just what jumped out at me. Otherwise a respectable and neat job!

    My $0.02

  • Jeremy
    Jeremy Member Posts: 52

    Brad-actually the supply header is 1-1/4" IPS. I know the camara I used really isnt the best one made. We did try running all different combination of zones and everything seemed ok without any problems. Thanks for the advise.
  • Actually

    the piping is 1 1/4 inch right up to the suction side of the circulators .

    We pipe our Peerless boilers just like Jeremy did . Well , we do reduce the circulator tees to the size of each individual zone . We always test to make sure the zones come back hot ( and they always do ) no matter how many circs are on the header . There's gotta be some limit , but we once had 8 circs going at once and they all pushed heat all the way through ( some took alot longer than others though . More of a long loop situation ) .

    The DHW circ should not be a problem if the control is set for priority .

    Peerless , Weil Mclain , Thermo / Dynamics , are all brands we install or used to , and never had air issues using the built in air separator . I've dropped pressure on my own WBV3 more times than I can count and I haven't had to purge the zones since the install back in 98 or so .

    Good points on all the issues you bring up Brad .
  • Peerless

    Its a neat install. I see alot of boilers, and wish that 1/4 of them were as neat as your's. I would however heed some of the advice given, such as isolating the pumps as well as orientation for easy replacement. The first pump should always be the indirect, and I wonder if you really need all pumps. To add something other than all the wonderful comments you received already, I'd have to say a hard piped conduit for electric feed is needed with a visable emergency switch. Another item would be the copper drips for the relief valves. How do you get them off without cutting them?.

    I'm sure we haven't seen the last of you and I'm excited to see your next one.

    Good Luck!

    Robert O'Connor/NJ
  • Brad White_125
    Brad White_125 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks, Jeremy and Ron

    Nothing wrong with the camera you used! Must be my own built-in cameras! I was going off of other components for scale, seeing what might be 3/4" and 1" copper runouts (again a guess) and going from there...

    And if it all works, don't fix it! Still an excellent job that the Owners should appreciate.

    I used to have a Peerless (came with the house when I bought it in 1983). In some ways I wish I kept it. Formerly oil-fired with an Economite conversion burner... would probably still be running today.

    Thanks for the information- I learned something! Means it is a good day.

  • amhplumb_2
    amhplumb_2 Member Posts: 62
    Nice Job Jeremy!

    Very nice! Everything neat & profesional. I have one question and only because I learned this one from Heating Help.com a while back, didn't you need a thermal-by pass at the boiler? As with "Pumping away" this was another thing that I picked up on The Wall, and once I hear something! Prior, I didn't install them. Other than that A+. Keep up the good work!
  • Dale
    Dale Member Posts: 1,317
    Nice job

    First, nice work, way better than I usually see. Second, your attitude to comments is very wise. I have an inlaw who edits technical books, a complete edit, engineering calculus formulas and all is $200 a page. The guys who have commented like Ron Jr. are giving you the same value gratis.
    All I know about oil boilers I've learned here but, I'll make a few comments. I'm getting older and would have put the pump controller on some plywood on the wall since there seems to be room. It is more wiring but it should be cooler as well as easier to work on and no water leak target. That way you could have brought the bx in from the back. I don't know if the boiler 120V junction box position is fixed but I try to put them up as high as possible. On the water fill, we see allot of auto feeder problems. A feeder bypass is very handy, does add 2 valves. Keep up the good work and keep posting your jobs.
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