tuning up my steam system

Ron Schroeder

the radiators are pitched properly toward the outlet, next buy Dan's book for the homeowner, and you need to find out why your using too much water and fix it before it kills the boiler. http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/product.cfm?category=2-109

after rereading your post are the radiators filling up or just collecting some water in the bottom, if the boiler is filling up and then filling the radiators check your feed valve for leakage and if you have a tankless coil that may be the leak filling the boiler. If the boiler and pipes are filling then beware that the piping may sag from excess weight and may need to be hung for proper pitch, John is also right on with the wtaer feed LWCO assessment

johnnyge

tuning up my steam system

OK Here is what I did so far to my one pipe steam system. Drain the botton valve of the boiler to get rid of the dirty water. Also on the botton of the return condenmsate I did the same. Replace the 2 main vent valves with new ones.(boil the 2 old valves in vinager to get it clean, one was plug. I am keepping them as a spare). Clean the pig tail to the pressuretol. I have Ajusted the pressuretol to 2PSI and the Diff to 1... My next step, is going to be check radiator to the right pitch for the condensate return to avoid water hammer, test the radiator valves and trying to balance the system (got the e-book from Dan Hologan)I want to do it this way. get the valve off the radiator and time how long it takes to get steam all the way across, and then put the valve back on to see if I can get almost the same time. What else I can do to get the best of my boiler and keep the heating bill low. Ho much sould I paid to get a CO test on my burner. Are they already factory set?? Any imput will be appreciated.

Ken_40

Right church...

wrong pew.

Your notion of taking the valve (sic) out to see how long it takes to get steam through all sections, is a poor one.

1) When reasonably cold out, make sure all valves are wide open.

2) Throw all the vents in the garbage (if older than ten years or looking lame).

3) Buy only Gorton, Vari-vent or other high quality vents - as sized by the logic of the manufacturer's instruction sheets.

4) Do NOT use pipe dope on the threads of the new vents, but be sure to "chase" the 1/8" threads of each rad before installing the new vents.

5) Adjust the orifice size of each vent by switching them around (if fixed orificed) or adjusting all vents to 1/4 open and after a complete steam cycle is over, re-adjust all vents to a 1/8 increment of open or closed - based on room temp and common sense. (open more, warmer room)

Remember, opening all vents to full size will "starve" the hardest to reach rad in the system - resulting in a cold room!

And... Never try and adjust the output of a rad by turning the valve (not the vent) part way. Either the valve is all the way open, and the rad "on" or, the valve is closed, and the rad is "off"! Steaming rates are not controlled by valves, but rather - by the "vents"!

johnnyge

Were I can get the Gorton VariVents. HOme Depot only carry Mist 0 vent or something of that nature. The vents that you are refering to is the one with numbers. I have a few of them that goes from 0 (orifice is close) to 10 (orifice all the way open).

Ken_40

Sorry if I confused you...

Home Depot rarely handles either "Heat Timer Vari-Vents" or, "Gorton fixed-orifice" vents. Dole, Hoffman, Honeywell, Schraeder and a host of others, are "other" brands out there. Some a tad more expensive, most less. You sort of get what you paid for...

Any plumbing and heating supply house should have either or both brands (Heat Timer OR Gorton) brands. Good vents run between 12 and 18 bucks a pop.

Here's one link to get you on the right track: www.gorton-valves.com/

A few "rules" they expound upon at their (Gorton) website:

1) Always put a #4 vent in the rad that impacts the 'stat the most.

2) Use a #5 vent in bedrooms you prefer to stay cool.

3) Use #6's in most rooms except those close to the main.

4) Use a #C, only in rooms that have always been hard to warm.

Buy an 1/8" NPT pipe tap to clean up the radiator threads but don't wrench it in past 2/3's of the visible thread or you'll be overcutting threads, making the vent "bottom out" before being really snug.

And, always leave the vent with the orifice positioned at 12 0'clock.

Last thing. NEVER use a wrench of any sort on the new Gorton vents. As snug as you can get by hand ONLY is the correct tightness - provided that last rotation results in the vent ending up at 12 o'clock...

If you wind up with Heat Timer Vari-Vents, a small wrench may be required. Merely snug is adequate. Never tighten more than a tad over "snug" on these either.

Both brands are chrome plated brass, so the metal underneath is soft and will shear or deform if you "get on it."

Let us know how you make out.

HitzKup_2

venting chart

try this: http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/product.cfm?category=2-138

johnnyge

Thank you for the link. I already bought the e-book. I am reading it

warren_2

steam system building water in radiators

Last year I had a problem with water in the radiators. I drained the water out of the radiators and it returned. I replaced all the valves and had a company come in and change the connections. the problem prosisted. I was told in the begining that I filled the water level too full. I reduced to half on the sight glass and still had the same problem. This was the first time I have had this problem and the frequent filling of the furnace with water. WhaT COULD BE CAUSING THIS TO HAPPEN?

John_102

rads filling with water

Be certain that you don't have an auto water feed / low water cut off which has failed. If your 'tech' was as ignorant as the one who looked at my boiler, he looked at the rads full of water for the problem, instead of the street side of the boiler. Replacing the rad valves was probably a total waste of time & money.

Also, what do you mean by 'frequent filling of the furnace'? Fresh water is corrosive to your system (that's why I stick with Guinness). Seriously, you don't want to introduce a lot of freah water to your boiler.

You've come to a great place. I'll step aside & let a pro speak to your question.

John_102

A thought -

Warren -

You really ought to start a new thread for your question - people will be more likely to see it & respond to your issue.

Peace.

johnnyge

Just want to say Thank You All for your advise. I run my boiler today for the first time on this season, and for the first time, no bangings, no hissing, and all the radiators got hot. I think I will have to adjust the one in the bedrooms that are the closes to the main, so the rooms won't get too hot. Maybe tomorrow I will go and get 2 new valves for those radiators.
Thank you again, and i am going to continue reading the post in this site that are really helpfull and give you ideas to run your boiler to the max and at the same time save money on heating cost. Thanks Dan Holohan por putting out those books.