Insulating Pipes?

Weezbo

i like insulation. some homes were built in the 60's with very little or no attention to detail when it came to insulation....so,sometimes it may be like this,the pipes are apart of the heat distribution system and designed to stay that way :)

if you insulate the building,then you insulate the pipe, then the boilers too big ,then you need new boiler right size ,it is a horrible thing that the fuel prices went up ....everybody has to go figure now. :)

Jack_33

Insulation Material?

Good morning All,
In the early stages of reading Dan's book on "We Got Steam Heat". I have traced the steam heating system (40 years old) in the basement of my house. I have found that all of the pipes (one pipe system); main, branches to radiators and return line are without any insulation.
I now have come to understand that this is not good at all.
What type of insulating material are you now using? Can these products to purchased at a plumbing supply company or home centers?

Thanks!

Brad White_9

Moulded fiberglass

is the most common choice. Do not use the foams (Armaflex, the spongy ones, any of those. They melt).

Forget the home centers, they only stock half-inch thick fiberglass generally.

Our (Massachusetts) Energy Code is based on most model energy codes so as a place to start, steam system piping (201F to 250F range) requires 1.5 inch thickness for up to 1-1/2" pipe and 2" thick above that, (even the 4, 5, 6 and 8 inch pipe sizes) so your house should be in that range, right?

Manufacturers I specify are Knauff, Certain-Teed, Manville, Owens-Corning among others. Locally here in Boston I use Homans Associates. Check your Yellow Pages and ask contractors.

Fittings are fussy and use fiberglass "diapers" covered with PVC ("Zeston") fitting covers and secured with white PVC tape. Best thing if you can find and afford them are moulded fiberglass insulation fitting covers finished with a brush-on white cement. Benefit for cost and effort diminishes once the mains are done.

My real point here is, do the mains first. Best bang for the buck. Focus on the fittings where human contact might be a danger and do the others at your leisure.

There was a discussion and better thoughts on whether to insulate the returns or not; I would but something about carbonic acid formation if you do or if you do not. Shame on me that this escapes me at the moment.

But the steam mains at least are a good quick project.

Unknown

on those fittings

On those fittings, save urself aliitle bit of money, use cold water paste with cheese cloth to hold it in shape...

chuck_6

Pipe insulation

David:

Listen to Brad. He has helped me out as well. If you have a good heating and plumbing supply place nearby, see if they have the fiberglass insulation. If you can only get 1/2" wall size, add a second layer of insulation, especially on the mains. Also make sure the main vents are properly vented.

Chuck

Jack_33

Brad, Chuck and others,
Thanks alot for the helpfull information.

In continuing to trace the system and according to Dan's book I am presently reading. It appears that my system would be called a "single pipe/parallel flow/dry return". All except two small sections are steel pipes. Those small runs(branches) are copper and are about 5 feet each. The main steam line is 2-1/4" , return is 1-1/2" and branch lines to radiators are 1-1/2".

I made a mistake on the age of the house it is not 40 but 60 years old. The steam heating system is original to the house.

Again, thanks to all that help.