Best air eliminator for radiator?

BC_4

Who makes the best automatic air eliminator that can mount inside the radiator on top of the piping supplying the fin--system is water, not steam? I have used the Honeywell plastic eliminators and have had numerous problems with leaking. I have recently looked into the Honeywell PV series supervent air eliminator, but it is made to be installed in-line, and does not look like it will work for this application because the eliminator must mount on top of the unit. Are there any better alternatives, as it is for a 90 unit apartment complex and the leaking has caused flooring damage to several units. Thanks.

Brad White_9

Manual Key Vent.

If you have to bleed air out of your radiators sporadically, something is wrong. I suspect you are pumping toward your expansion tank which can drop the circulator suction pressure to sub-atmospheric levels and draw in air.

Properly set up and kept under pressure, a hot water system, being closed, need only be filled once.

Go after the disease, not set up chronic treatment of the symptom.

My $0.02

Brad

Ken_40

Brad's correct

A 1/8" chrome plated key bleeder is the ticket. About a buck each. The key is around 25 cents.

Of course, you'll have to isolate the rad or drain the system to remove whatever is already there - and install the new ones.

Once refilled, pressurized and purged, the first bleed will be the last, IF the system is not already compromised (as Brad suggested - by having the circulator in backwards)

Let us know how you make out.

Unknown

yeap,Brad's right on this

With my former company,I had the same plms with air in top floor of 48 units condo. Air will always trapped in one unit and preventing flow to the other units. Make long story short, after being a Dan's newbie reading articles in P&H magzine and buying his books relating to pumping away and air problems. We replaced partial plugged boiler and leaky exp. tanks, repiped the boiler pumps on supply(ponpc), etc
After purging the system, NO AIR or nosie problems since... Sad part is when new condo mangement company's own heating dept comes in, told the board that the boiler pipings are installed wrong... Which is why I'm not working there any more , don't needs the ingorants' headaches.

Unknown

yeap,Brad's right on this

With my former company,I had the same plms with air in top floor of 48 units condo. Air will always trapped in one unit and preventing flow to the other units. Make long story short, after being a Dan's newbie reading articles in P&H magzine and buying his books relating to pumping away and air problems. We replaced partial plugged boiler and leaky exp. tanks, repiped the boiler pumps on supply(ponpc), etc
After purging the system, NO AIR or nosie problems since... Sad part is when new condo mangement company's own heating dept comes in, told the board that the boiler pipings are installed wrong... Which is why I'm not working there any more , don't needs the ingorants' headaches.

BC_4

Have a manual key on lower 7 floors, want auton in lvl 8

Brad is correct. However, the building is 50 yrs old and they are budgeting a few repairs per year, so the system will be drained each year for some years to come. I have manual keys on the lower 7 levels and want auto air eliminators on the 8th floor. So I am still in need of a unit that will work for my situation. Thanks again.

Brad White_9

Taco

makes a nice dual-stage vent that allows quick manual and continuous automatic venting. If you must, just pipe to the vertical with 1/8" pipe and couplings; I do not think that this vent type has a side nipple.

Maid-O-Mist and Sarco have products you may also consider.

I would respectfully submit though that annual draining and refilling will guarantee "a few repairs per year" for years to come. A self-fulfilling prophesy here.

Unknown

anothr way

Another way, if u not gonna change the boiler pipings, replace the steel tanks with bladder type tanks, the bladder will keep the air seprated from water..

Ron Schroeder

And if you insist on

puttting in auto bleeders do yourself a favor and put 1/8 inch male/female ball valves in that way if leaking starts anyone can shut it off and replacing the vent is a breeze.