boiler start-up tips & advice on wiring

Jack Waller

Hi All.

You may recall that I have been working on an NTI TI150 retrofit for my previously 2-furnace, and gas DHW, home. I have posted some pics of the mock-up and acted on advice given. Now I have a newly drywalled wall with the 4'x7' sheet of painted 3/4 plywood on the wall with primary and partial secondary piping mounted. I am very pleased with how things have worked out on the layout.

I pressure tested the system with air, having a bypass in place of the boiler, found a couple of joint leaks and fixed them (have learned NOT to flux a joint and then solder it the NEXT day). The most painful issue was a heat exchanger union which leaked ever so slightly that I couldn't catch initially with soapy water! Anyway everything is on the wall and I am getting this " oh dear what might I have missed" feeling, so any helpful advice would be appreciated. Initially I plan to fire up with only the IDHW load, once I have the intake and exhaust up my old chimney chase.

I will be pumping flushing chemical to clear flux etc. but am wondering if this should be done using the system pumps or a separate puge pump. I have an Axiom makeup water setup with no feed from my presssure system. The boiler remains bypassed since I have assumed it is better not to flush junk through it.

Also I am wondering how to approach the electrical side of things. Being an Electrical Engineer this might sound funny but I'm in electronics. I have wired my home and shop in years past so probably all I need are some tips?

For now I have re-routed my old furnace feed to a master switch in a good location on my wall ahead of the boiler and from there figured I would go to a 4 1/2 " sq box that would mount above my boiler to perform the series safety shutdown (over pressure, over temp and low water). Then what? At this moment I have not yet purchased any controls other than a programmable thermostat. I am of course following the manual but lack the real life first hand experience that gives confidence. I am using HeatLink manifold zone controls, will have an air handler for the main floor, air handler and radiant for the basement and a separate antifreeze filled system via heat exchanger for my attached shop. I am sure I could get things going on my own but being rather particular I'd rather do it the proven and respected way guided by pro's.

If it would help I could post some new pics.

Jack -

PS I have done my first radiant wall in my walkout basement using 1/2" PAP - not the easiest - bored holes in studs! I accessed the back of the drywall, used drywall screws to fasten sheets of light gauge sheet metal between the studs, and then fastened the pex to this sheet metal from behind using short sheet metal screws with heat transfer plates. Then I put fiberglass R12. Leaves me with only the drywall screws to fill on the original painted surface but no sheets of board to replace and no taping - any comments? Now what to do where the framing has finished drywall on both sides - rip one side off?? BTW as much radiant as possible is being added to try to reduce my forced air load to a minimum.

Ken_40

Jack,

Fill and bleed the system and re-check for leaks. When you're sure all the leaks are fixed, drop the pressure to zero # and inject a cup of dissolved TSP into the system and run it (and all zones)for a day. It's better to heat the TSP to at least 140, but not absolutely necessary if it is too hot to practically do so - but 24 hours of circulation (with or without firing) is key.

Then, power bleed the system and dump all the TSP and muck (flux residuals, piping particulate, oxides, system crap and my favorite, all the "schmootz" from the system. Purge each zone until no air or cloudy water shows up.

Then, fill the system to the correct static pressure, fire it to at least 140F and then await the first cool day.

Good luck.

Jack Waller

Still unanswered questions

Hi All and thanks Ken. It was 1 AM or so when I placed the post so I may have been less than lucid in describing my concerns. Keeping in mind that I have never fired up a system before, does anyone have more to add on my original questions - especially pertaining to the wiring?

If there's a resource I should access perhaps this could be mentioned since I find that although it is most interesting to read the various bits and pieces on the internet, it is very time consuming, and right now because we have no heat at all I am getting a little concerned - one week of holidays left - should be lots but I seem to know how to expand every small job into the total available time!

Jack

Ragu_5

Hi Jack

Those jitters are for real; I get them EVERY time I fire up a new system. Just a thought: do you know any local pro with experience who you could hire for a couple of hours? I'm mostly thinking about having a second set of eyes to possibly keep any components from getting cooked. Better on the nerves, also. Good luck.

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Jack Waller

TI150 pics - still hoping for more advice.

Thanks Ragu. A kind heating contractor back in the spring gave me the confidence to start down this parth by recommending a good supplier. I will take your advice and contact him.

A couple pics show what I am trying to do here. Obviously the wiring is missing and I'm still hoping for help in that department. Also am wondering if I should put a thermal trap on my return from the IDHW which shows up clearly in one pic with some fittings laying on the floor. This pic shows the location in the floor where I will heat my basement using a fan coil.

My upper fan coil will be fed off the first secondary while whatever radiant walls I can manage will be supplied in parallel from that point also (stubs are plumbed in). Next in line is the secondary for my garage and shop that feeds the HX. The last secondary will feed under floor pex zones in my 4'x 5' x 60 radiant plennum that is under the south side of my walkout basement. The pex will be channeled to this plennum via one of the feed ducts in the floor. you might say this is "experimental".

Jack

Jack Waller

TI150Start-up Help - Pics

thanks

Jack Waller

Second TI150 pic

Seems the attachments are too large to post more than one at a time??
Anyway this is the complete setup. The 1" pex is temporarily supplying us with DHW from the shop where the gas heater used to feed the radiant floor. These lines will be tied into the HX.

Jack

Jeff Lawrence_25

If you would

not click on the box that says attach to post, it may be easier to read. The pictures you post can be edited downto 800X600 and be a good size to include .

Jack Waller

Changing resoltion of pics

Sorry for the mess up - I didn't realize that the pic was going into the post even though it said just that - 2:30 AM when I should have been sleeping. Have never altered resolutions - help - does this have to be done in another application outside of the WALL?

Jack

Ted_9

Taco

You could try www.taco-hvac.com

they have lots of wiring diagrams for their controls.

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