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choice of fluid for radiant heat
Constantin
Member Posts: 3,796
... I'd send George at Rhomar a sample of your RO-treated water and have them recommend a solution for you. I'd avoid using glycol, if possible, except in the instances that Mark listed.
Besides being more viscuous than water (which may require you to use larger pumps), glycol can also turn very acidic under unfavorable circumstances (which can eat the system from the inside out). Glycol has its place, but the added expense and headache is only justified by the right conditions.
Besides being more viscuous than water (which may require you to use larger pumps), glycol can also turn very acidic under unfavorable circumstances (which can eat the system from the inside out). Glycol has its place, but the added expense and headache is only justified by the right conditions.
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Comments
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choice of fluid for radiant heat
Using the Vitodens for my radiant heat and domestic hot water I have a choice. Water or glycol. Either one favorable?
My water is very hard (well water). In case I choose to fill the system and loops with H20, should I use soften water (after my water softener), or the hard water? Or a mix of both. Does it matter?
Thanks
W0 -
were she mine , i would put a known water quality in .....
you have to haul water or have it delivered....0 -
Follow the manufacturers recommendations...
If in doubt, rent a water deionizer and fill with that water. ALso, consider the use of water condition/cleanig agents like Rhomar. Follow this link to their products.
http://www.rhomarwater.com/
Many systems that are installed do not receive anything in the way of "extra care" as it pertains to the water in their systems, and that probably works for them. But with the costs of systems being what they are these days, it is not wise to pinch pennies on water conditions. Do it right, or do it again.
ME0 -
radiant fluid
No mention of the option for glycol. Shall I assume a quality source of water is better?
I have an reverse osmosis unit. Would water from that be sufficient?0 -
radiant fluid
No mention of the option for glycol. Shall I assume a quality source of water is better?
I have an reverse osmosis unit. Would water from that be sufficient?0 -
radiant fluid
No mention of the option for glycol. Shall I assume a quality source of water is better?
I have an reverse osmosis unit. Would water from that be sufficient?0 -
That would be better....
But I think I would also have IT tested first and then follow and recommend any suggestions that Rhomar would give.
Glycol is a last resort in my book. I've seen what it does, and it has its place, but not in all systems. JMHO. Chris0 -
4 things that would want to cause me to WANT to put antifreeze
in to ANY system. All of this crtiera assumes someone living in the home at all times. If they're really gone a lot and worried about it, they need to have low temp alarms installed and hope the telephone line doesn't get taken out by the same storm that took out their power line...
The 4 things are...
1. It's a snowmelt system. (DOH)
2. It can lose heat source (LP or Oil)
3. It is suceptible to regular and long electrical outages (trees blew down power line in wind storm)
4. Structural preclusions.
If it doesn't meet that criteria, I won't do it, unless asked to do so by the owner, in which case I tell them that I can not guarantee the fluid tightness of the system. They have to pay for any glycol leaks that WILL pop up...
ME0 -
But Mark,
People pay BIG BUCKS for that "patina" ! JCA0 -
Also the most important step
would be to clean and flush the system after the initial installation.
Good water of glycol in a dirty system is a step in the wrong direction.o
You need to flush out any oils, fluxes, dirt, copper chips, etc.
For this I prefer a good hydronic cleaner product.
I agree with the others in that Rhomarwater.com makes a very good "multi metal" hydronic system cleaner.
Water is an excellent fill product IF it is of good quality.
Hardness TDS, chlorides, ph all need to be considered, especially with stainless steel boilers.
I'd advise against straight RO water. It is very agresive towards copper, hense the plastic lines and containers used with RO units.
You may be able to add chemicals to buffer the ph back with RO or blend it with hydronic conditioners. DI or DM (de-ionized or de-mineralized) water is a good choice.
Your boiler installation manual should have some parameters to follow.
I too would stay away from glycols unless absoutely needed. Very expensive these days, messy, leak prone, requires maintenance,...
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