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Wall or ceiling radiant ( Ron Jr. )

Mark Hunt
Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,909
would be nice.

Perhaps in the wall(s) near the shower?

Nice to step out of the shower on a cold morning and have a warm wall facing you eh'??

Mark H

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Comments

  • I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel

    What an ordeal . And it's the only working bathroom in the house , so that made it even harder . Anyways , it's coming out nice , the tile floor came out better than expected , it was my first tile job . I'll post pics when it's all done .

    Meanwhile , I had to give up on my dream radiant floor . I didn't want to take the chance of thin setting a floor on top of radiant if it had to be redone ( my first tilejob etc. ) .

    I have zero room to install baseboard , panel rad , towel warmer , kickspace .... anything on a lower wall . What I do have is plenty of wall and celing - behind the sheetrock .

    Given the choice , where would the experts put radiant in their own bathroom - ceilings or walls ? Maybe a little of both ? Either choice is just as easy in this bathroom right now . The only thing is no radiant can go on the outside wall , there's 2 windows and the bathtub are there . Room is roughly 8 by 8 by 8 foot height - being insulated throughout . The walls will be tiled , haven't made a decision on the celing yet ... There is more than enough surface area for the heat if I go either way , and I am using transfer plates of course :)

    Thanks in advance for any help , Ron .
  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,884
    Ron

    I have it all, floors, walls and cieling.

    Put in as much as you need, my bathroom works great.

    (should have done the floors, really )

    Scott

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  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,884
    Ron

    I have it all, floors, walls and cieling.

    Put in as much as you need, my bathroom works great.

    (should have done the floors, really )

    Scott

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  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    ceilings

    would be my second choice. Generally easier to retro fit, than walls. And it "sees" the entire floor area.

    Put it right on top of the ceiling material you have and fur down 1/2" and re-sheetrock. Use water board in the bathrooms. Or CBS and tile the ceiling if you are feeling really cocky about your tile skills :)

    hot rod

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  • try to get some in the shower

    either ceiling, walls, or in a cement base under the fiberglass shower unit. Bob Gagnon

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  • Christian Egli_2
    Christian Egli_2 Member Posts: 812
    This would be a magic wall

    Then, with hooks (glued not drilled) into the wall, you'll be able to warm your towels for the ultimate luxury. I regularly visit an old home that has that since the fifties. The heat is behind the tiles in an area about the size of two doors only. It gets very hot, well above 100F and it works and feels nice. There are cracks in the tiles though. Oh well.

    The danger of the walls is if ever anyone takes a nail to it. But this being a bathroom, you'll be able to boast about your multi jet shower.

  • Human microwave oven (hydronic powered)

    I would do every surface that you can, throw a non electric TRV at it, and enjoy the beauty of total radiant comfort...

    Need pictures and drawings? (silly question:-)

    ME
  • Constantin
    Constantin Member Posts: 3,796
    I would consider ceiling heat...

    ... for the simple reason that people are less prone to put nails, screws, etc. into ceilings. Yes, the water temps have to be higher but hopefully the area up there is sufficient to cover your heat loss.

  • put some pex

    in a cement base under the fiberglass shower. I do this all the time and it works great. Bob Gagnon

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  • Thank you everyone

    for the great advice . I bought some 3/8 Zurn and transfer plates . I gave up for the day when I started yelling at the ceiling . The pex started the fight , slapping into the back of my head every 1/2 minute . I was waiting for it to say " Shut up and Sit Down !! " . And what a chore it is to snap the tubing into the plates . Very tough to do with the pex up in the floor joists . I couldn't snap it in by hand . I'll have to yank each run of pipe down , hammer the plates onto the pex with a 2 by four as backup , then rethread the pex over the walls . And doing ceiling radiant with plates leaves very little oops room with sheetrock and cement board screws . I think I might space the plates a little farther off the joists than the predrilled holes allow for . Since the local supply doesn't carry compression ring adapters for 3/8 , I can't pressure the system up .

    Oh well , sooner or later this bathroom will get done . Thanks again everyone for the words of wisdom .
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,981
    Ron....

    Welcome to "The Club".

    2X4 in hand,some silicone and a RUBBER MALLET is the way to go. Pace yourself. Chalkline the pipes on the walls and ceilings and you'll be all set.

    I know you only want to do this once....You know how,you know why... just be careful of doing something dumb and finding the tubing with a hammer/nail or screw.

    I'll be down to visit next April or May...make me proud. Chris
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    an air powered palm nailer

    is actually the best. I installed several hundred feet of transfer plates on my sheet-rocked ceiling with this tool.

    I can actually hold a transfer plate in one hand and palm nailer the tube into it, then attack it to the studs or joist.

    PAP works easier than regular pex also. You can form all the loops on the floor, then palm nail them into the plates either on the floor or on the ceiling.

    Yeah, it does take some speciality tools and some practice to come up with a "one man" method.

    Be glad to ship you my nailer if you have some time to wait.

    hot rod

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  • Palm nailer

    Hot Rod , thanks for the offer . That was very generous of you .

    I've officially been yelled at to get the sheetrock up on all the walls by the end of the weekend , so ...... the radiant has to go in today . I'll look for a palm nailer at the store . Are you saying the palm nailer punches the pex into the groove , or do you use the nailer on the opposite side , on the plate itself ?
  • Chris

    Thanks for the silicone idea . You think that would also help with any expansion noises ? Any problem with silicone in direct contact with Zurn ?

    I was also thinking of either running hot or cold water through the pex . Hot would make the tube more flexible , but larger . I'm not sure if cold water would shrink the pex in any appreciable way .
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