anyone changed out an air vent on the fly?

ken D

Drain off the pressure, change it quickly? Can it be done that way?

TomStayer

Changing air vent

I have done it many times. Just be sure you take precautions as not to burn yourself. You should be able to bring the system pressure back up with auto feed valve w/o air getting into the system.

ed wallace

changing air vent on the fly

can be done if you get very lucky

Unknown

Flies have air vents?

Noel

Steamhead

This is how I do it

and it works most of the time. I always try to do it when the system water is cool.

First bleed all the air from the system. Then de-pressurize it. If there is a valve to the expansion tank, shut it off.

Now dope up your new vent and slowly unscrew the old one. The water should be held up in the system just as it will if you dunk a straw in water, place a finger over one end and lift the straw out of the water with the finger end on top. Bleeding all the air and shutting off the tank valve prevents system air from expanding and letting the water fall out. However, if you do get water seeping out past the threads as you loosen the old vent, screw it back in!

Quickly screw in the new vent and tighten it. Then open the tank valve, repressurize the system, and make sure nothing is leaking (but you know that).

I've used this technique not only on vents but feed valves and relief valves too.

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S Ebels

Replacement air vent

When you change it, replace it with a Honeywell, I think the model is 0430. This air vent features a base with a valve in it so you can pop the top and clean out the float needle and chamber without loss of system water or pressure. You'll likely not have to replace the whole vent again.

Maybe Bill W. has the right model # if the one I gave from memory isn't correct. It has a brass base and the plastic float chamber part rotates to close the valve. I gotta get some more of 'em.

hr

Have a plan B

when you try "on the fly" connections. Sometimed those thin brass vents break off at the nipple. then you will feel really dumb with your finger over the hole, like the dutch boy

I tried a bunch of those HW's, Steve they seemed to develop leaks around the top plastic to plastic, o-ring seal. Very thin material there when you replace and retighten them also. Good concept, but...

hot rod

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S Ebels

Really?

How long after install did they start leaking HR? We haven't had any failures yet but have only used them for a couple years.

Personally I think it's all those additives you're always putting in the boiler!! (grin)

hr

Depends

seems to me the ones on high temperature baseboard or air handlers seep or crust up sooner. Makes me wonder about the thermal expansion they see from cold fall start up to 180° or more temperatures.

Possibly hairline splits in the thin threaded portion? I have switched to the B&G #7

I also had O ring issues with the Sparco/ Grundfos/ Honeywell labeled brass vent. Same top end o-ring leak.

Maybe they just had bad o-rings for a while?

Here is one fix for the air vent leakers. Solder the top on and thread the air vent (replaceable) of your choice on to it.

hot rod

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gerry gill

put one of these on,

so its easier next time. http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/valves/SeriesMVPrice.cfm

Glenn Harrison_2

Is this the vent you are thinking of?

Honeywell EA122

http://hbctechlit.honeywell.com/techlit/PDF/63-0000s/63-8728.pdf

Boiler Guy

Back up plan - GOOD ADVICE

Had a new condo owner decide to "bleed" her baseboard this past winter. She removed the bleed screw on a manual vent.
Main floor, 3 storey,185* water !!!!! Needless to say by the time the service guy got there she had almost 3" of water covering her freshly refinished maple floor. WHAT A MESS!! Never did find the bleeder screw.

Lesson: If you don't know what you are doing - don't mess with it!

BTW I resemble the "Dutch Boy" remark! LOL

Bart_2

Calefi vents are

now my vent of choice. The odd thing about most vents is that they will not shut off completely unless there is around 5 psi or more in the system. The Calefi will shut off down to 1 psi and it comes with the little service valve so you never have to take the system down to service a vent...

Al Gregory

Some days when its busy I will pull a vacume and change whole circulators, extrol tanks, reducing valves whatever I can on a normal system. just cool it down and shut off everything you can.

sootmonkey

He asked about on the fly

Come on guys...He asked about "on the fly". To me that means get the new vent ready...unwind the old vent...very quickly screw new vent in...just do it with what ever psi is on boiler....well anybody ever try it?.....OK...I did...The service valves were in very poor shape...I doughted that they would hold if I turned them...didnt want to take time to have to replace them...OK...say a prayer to dead ansecters...(they never fail me)....lets give it a try.....

bob young

flyboy

we still do water main service valves on the fly [up to 1 1/4 " when necessary but it is always risky. an air valve, i would drop the pressure to zero and do it as i have numerous times but never with a pressurized system. simply no valid reason to take that risk and only bad things could happen

Guy_5

pressure

It's surprising just how much water is behind 1 or 2 PSI, a lesson that I learned very early!

GW